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Thread: Camera weight

  1. #21
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    analog I know where you're coming from, my joints are buggered as well, my hands have arthritis, and my knees are worn out so just to hold the thing after ten minutes is a blessing, I reckon this monopod sounds like the go, if it is adjustable I reckon a good comfy chair and adjust it to that height and we should be right, just sing out as they go past to "hold it" and when they all stop take the photo!!

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    For general shooting, a good rule of thumb is to try and keep your SS at at least 1/focal length. ie. 200mm lens - 1/200th sec. to minimise camera shake. For sport youre obviously gonna want it a lot faster than that to freeze action as kiwi says.

    If you cant get it, open up your lens first (try and avoid max aperture for sharpness reasons), if you still cant get it, increase your ISO until you can.

    Remember, that a noisy picture is always better than an out of focus, blurry picture. Noise can be fixed
    Last edited by bigdazzler; 27-06-2010 at 2:03pm.
    Hi Im Darren

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  3. #23
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    flash, I often sit on a rock and use the monopod when I do surfing shots. I leave the bottom section (mine has 3 adjustments like tripods) untightened until I get the height right then flip the lever to lock it. I have even used it on a boat! I still use a very fast shutter speed, but having the weight off my hands is a godsend.
    Odille

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    I agree Odille .. on the (very) odd occasion that I photograph sport, I find my monopod pretty useful, particularly when running up and down a sideline and stopping quickly for bracing.

    Im surprised you dont like them Darren ?? Any reason why ??

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    Its not that I dont like them, I use on my big lenses all the time, and often on the 70-200 too if Im shooting more than one game. But its a weight thing more than a image stabilisation thing
    Darren
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    oh ok .. interpreted it as you thought they got in the way or something. Sweet.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bigdazzler View Post
    For general shooting, a good rule of thumb is to try and keep your SS at at least 1/focal length. ie. 200mm lens - 1/200th sec. to minimise camera shake.
    I've heard it said that with a crop sensor body (without going into the reasons why ) at 200mm the minimum to avoid camera shake is in fact 1/320th - I notice that the first shot is at 1/320th and the second at 1/125th - therefore the first is right on the border line, and the second well below, as they are both taken at 200mm.

    Welcome to the D90 club
    Last edited by maccaroneski; 27-06-2010 at 2:50pm.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bigdazzler View Post
    oh ok .. interpreted it as you thought they got in the way or something. Sweet.
    Well they do as well compared to hand held

  9. #29
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    I have a monopod and I will try to use it as well next Saturday. Thanks again everyone.
    Nikon D90 with Nikon 18-200mm f3.5-5.6 Nikon 50mm f1.8, Tamron 90mm macro f2.8, Sigma 10-20mm f/4 - 5.6, SB-600, Manfrotto tripod and head.
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  10. #30
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    may have to get one of these!

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    Judy,
    Kiwi has given you excellent advise an all I will add is that you can set the D90 for automatic ISO and you and set the maximum ISO allowed.
    For example I filmed and photographed my son's kickbosing fight last night and set my D90 as follows: Manual mode, shutter speed 1/800s, f 2.8 and auto ISO with a max of 3200. It worked a treat. Maybe you could do the same with a maximum ISO of 1600.

    (By the way Adam is now the new WMC NSW Cruiser weight champion.)

    I also fully endorse what Tony (maccaroneski) said. When considering your slowest shutter speed allow for the crop factor which is 1.6 for the D90. I even use a little fiddle factor so for a 200mm lens I would tend to use a minimum shutter speed of 1/400s for general shooting and 1/800s for sport.

    Keep on using your new gear and I know you will grow to love it.
    Cheers
    Darey

    Nikon user, Thick skinned and wanting to improve, genuine C & C welcomed.

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  12. #32
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    Hi Darey,

    Congratulations to Adam on his championship. That's great !

    Thanks for your advice. I will certainly try all this and see how I go.

    Regards
    Judy
    Last edited by judybee; 27-06-2010 at 6:44pm.

  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by etherial View Post
    I actually found the opposite when I moved to a heavier camera, I found it suited me and it feels much more stable. I obtained (thanks Showipix) a monopod for when I use my 7D with the 70-200/2.8 which weighs in at 3.0 kgs, but I found that it is more a hinderance to me so I rarely use it. There is a lot more to the technique of holding a camera than a lot of people give credit for.

    I found this video a while ago that might help you a little. He faffs about at times but the basics of centre of gravity, and getting your elbow in tight under you camera to get maximum stability is the key. There is also a bit of talk about slow shutter speeds (which doesn't sound like your issue here) that is good advice. Take from it what you can.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EDsx3-FWfwk
    This video was interesting. Thanks for the link.

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darey View Post

    I also fully endorse what Tony (maccaroneski) said. When considering your slowest shutter speed allow for the crop factor which is 1.6 for the D90. I even use a little fiddle factor so for a 200mm lens I would tend to use a minimum shutter speed of 1/400s for general shooting and 1/800s for sport.it.
    Me too actually ... That's why I said it's really only a rule of thumb. I try for minimum 125th handheld at all times, and about 320th or even 400th at 200 on my 70-200. And it's worth noting I use ff cameras and still aim higher. In saying that though, I have a wedding shot that was 30th @ 200 and it is perfectly usable and needed only slight sharpening. I just mentioned the 1/focal length thing cause it's an easy way to remember, that's all. Someone taught me that very early on.



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    To agree with Kiwis sentiment.
    1. Turn VR off....particularly if you are managing to keep things still or you have braced yourself I find it can be more detrimental than help.
    2. Keep shutter speed high...it took me a while to finally wake up to myself, but that upping of ISO to keep it well above 1/focal length is critical to remove bluriness from the photos.
    3. Practice...once you get more comfortable with your lens and what you are shooting your shots will improve.
    John
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  16. #36
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    I remember when I moved up to much heavier equipment I had a tendency to jab at the shutter release button, rather than squeeze, simply as a response to the apprehension of 'shake'.

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    Thanks, I took some more photos today, of my pet cat and visiting dogs and also my kids. I had more sharp photos than blurry ones, so I think I am on my way. I started to hold the camera a bit different, noticed that my elbows 'flap' around so I tucked them in, it helped.

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    Glad to hear it, as I said earlier, I think some people underrate the importance of the technique of holding a camera.
    Mic
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