Next upgrade

[jdreamer]

Hi guys,

So I've been using my 40D for a few years now.. won some photography competitions locally and magazine competitions internationally, changed a few lenses, and broke the shutter once.

Finally, I'm down to 40D + Sigma 30mm f/1.4 at the moment and I am looking to upgrade. I've always been attached to still life photography which is also the genre of photography competition that I usually have some achievements. I am looking to invest into a new body (possibly 7d because 5dm2 is slightly stretching the budget and the fact that I have a Sigma 30mm f/1.4) and my first flash gun (possibly a 430ex II or maybe 2 YongNuo?) or maybe a new lens? I will be turning one of my rooms in the house into my mini studio so I'll invest into some tripods for the camera and flash, umbrella?, what else do I need? This is because recently, I am interested to try some strobist thingy as well.

I have budget of 1.5-1.6k to spend. I can get 7d from grey importer for around 1.2-1.3k and 430ex II at $260-280+..

Please advise. :D

[Bennymiata]

If you are mainly doing still life, get yourself the 60D rather than the 7D.
The flip-out screen of the 60D is great to use in the studio, and the quality of the images is exactly the same as they both use the same sensor and the same processor.
The advantages of the 7D are its metal body (not really an advantage as far as I'm concerned) and it's faster focussing on moving objects, which isn't really required with your main genre.
The 60d will save you money too which can towards a good head for your tripod or another flash.

I have found a good head to usefor still life is the Manfrotto Junior geared head as it allows you to do very precise adjustments to the camera and is also very stable.
Youngu and Nissin both make good flashes that work well with the 60D including the wireless functions.
For studio work you will need 2 flashes and some soft boxes and/or umbrellas.

The Canon 60mm F2.8 macro is a fantastic lens to use in the studio too and wil allow you to do really clear, crisp close-ups as well as lots of other stuff, and it isn't too long to use in a studio.
I use it all the time in my small studio for shots of handbags and other small leathergoods, and the results are superb.

[jdreamer]

I've tried 60d and I personally feel that it's slightly smaller than my current 40d? I don't know the size but it does feel so. Furthermore, I like the feel of 7d, it's very well built! :D

Just giving myself more excuse to buy the better body! :xmas:

[jdreamer]

By the way, if I get 7d, I don't need anything else to fire both YongNuo 560 wirelessly right or I need something else?

[JM Tran]

By the way, if I get 7d, I don't need anything else to fire both YongNuo 560 wirelessly right or I need something else?

you can get away with using S1 mode on the YN560 for optical slave triggered with the camera's onboard flash to set them off, great for indoors, not so good for outdoors. I'd just invest in the RF603 trigger sets for more flexibility and range

[KeeFy]

Although the 430II is a good flash gun, i'd highly recommend to go with the 580EXII instead or if budget is a constraint. Nissin 866/688 (or something) or a Youngnuo. As JM Tran has mentioned, invest in a wireless RF trigger set. A cheap set like the PT04 will set you back by $30 for a trigger and 2 receivers. Optical triggers don't work very well should you wish to try to shoot outdoors in the bright sun. RF triggers also is good if you don't have line of sight. As for studio setup it boils down to what you want out of the studio. Some shoot through brollies, reflectors, backdrops, Soft boxes, stands, etc. A decent studio setup on the cheap will set you back easily about $200+ (without flash).


Your mind is not playing tricks with you, the 60D is smaller than the 1/2/3/4/50D. Reason being Canon pushed the 7D to replace the 50D and as such downgraded the XXD line by a little. As mentioned by Benny, if you don't need the FPS, 7D is not an issue. Heck! If you don't even need the ISO for studio work. The 40D is more than capable for still life studio work. Use your money to buy a nice studio strobe kit if you really want to go down that path.

If not i'd recommend the 60D over the 7D as well if you don't use the FPS and want the pro look. I've had the 7D for 1 year + now and am looking to offload it as i realised i don't use the FPS as much as i want/need to. The AF is awesome and all... but as you grow through photography, what you thought you like may not be what you end up with finally. Also i'm lining myself up for a 1Dx :).

Good luck!

[jdreamer]

This has started to turn into how to get my first strobe kit up! Nice!

Looks like 60D is getting more vote here and I fully agree that I don't need that fps of 7d and probably 40d is sufficient enough. However, the other reason of offloading my 40d is that it has been a rough time and has started to feel funny with the focusing and I still get errors once in a while. So instead of sending it for another checking, I'd rather sell it. Not worth wasting more time and money into it I guess. As for the size, I have big hands. Looks like it's not my mind being funny, it does being built smaller!

I am happy to stretch my budget a little more though. So is YongNuo 560 good enough for indoor strobist? Or I'd better spend more on the better flash?

[KeeFy]

This has started to turn into how to get my first strobe kit up! Nice!

Looks like 60D is getting more vote here and I fully agree that I don't need that fps of 7d and probably 40d is sufficient enough. However, the other reason of offloading my 40d is that it has been a rough time and has started to feel funny with the focusing and I still get errors once in a while. So instead of sending it for another checking, I'd rather sell it. Not worth wasting more time and money into it I guess. As for the size, I have big hands. Looks like it's not my mind being funny, it does being built smaller!

I am happy to stretch my budget a little more though. So is YongNuo 560 good enough for indoor strobist? Or I'd better spend more on the better flash?

http://speedlights.net/ <<< Indepth reviews of speedlights.
http://strobist.blogspot.com/ <<<< good tutorials and reading after you get your speedlight.

It boils down to what you want to do with your speedlight as well. If you want to use it onshoe. ETTL is recommended for ease of use. If not you can get the non-ttl speedlights. My opinion is to get a speedlight with a GN larger than 30 at least. More is better as you can always tone down, but if you have a limit.... you get the drift. With speedlights comes batteries. Look at eneloops for one of the more reliable LSD (low self dischrge) batteries. As for chargers MAHA is considered one of the main leaders. Comes with lifetime warranty. My 5 year old charger died and i got another one shipped directly from USA foc in a week. Can't beat that kinda customer service.

Happy hunting!

[jdreamer]

Cool, thanks for the sites.

I am only planning to use them off shoes, not going to use them on my camera. YongNuo 560 and Nissin 866 both seem interesting. I'll get either one I guess. What about the built quality? Are there any big differences?

By the way, I've read about differences between 5dm2 and 7d and most of them claim that 5dm2 has a better ISO control over 7d but I thought that 7d has a top notch ISO performance too? It still seems like a better upgrade from a 40d too. If I am to get 5dm2, I am going to sell my Sigma 30mm f/1.4 (because it's for crop sensor) and I am looking to repurchase a 35mm f/2. I still prefer a closer focus and 5dm2 should be able to pull a league ahead in low light performance.

What do you think?

[Mark L]

Looks like 60D is getting more vote here and I fully agree that I don't need that fps of 7d ....
As for the size, I have big hands. Looks like it's not my mind being funny, it does being built smaller! .....


It's only small compared to what you've been using.You can get used to it fairly quickly. I have big hands also and find the 60D comfortable enough. Seems like it'll be on a tripod often enough.

[KeeFy]

Cool, thanks for the sites.

I am only planning to use them off shoes, not going to use them on my camera. YongNuo 560 and Nissin 866 both seem interesting. I'll get either one I guess. What about the built quality? Are there any big differences?

By the way, I've read about differences between 5dm2 and 7d and most of them claim that 5dm2 has a better ISO control over 7d but I thought that 7d has a top notch ISO performance too? It still seems like a better upgrade from a 40d too. If I am to get 5dm2, I am going to sell my Sigma 30mm f/1.4 (because it's for crop sensor) and I am looking to repurchase a 35mm f/2. I still prefer a closer focus and 5dm2 should be able to pull a league ahead in low light performance.

What do you think?

I personally only handled the 688 not the 866. It has a pretty decent build quality imo, but it was a very brief handle so i can't say for sure.

7D has a great ISO but still loses out to the 5D by about a stop to 2 depending. Full frame vs Cropped sensor. 30mm on crop is about a 50mm on a FF, so if you still want the same FOV it'll have to be a 50mm. You need to ask yourself if you need the low light performance of a 5d2. Also the DOF between a FF and a crop is quite different.

[William W]

I've always been attached to still life photography which is also the genre of photography competition that I usually have some achievements. . . . etc


Consider that a 5D(MkII) and a TS-E 45 might be your goal. (and also the Flash gear you want).

WW

[terry.langham]

Consider that a 5D(MkII) and a TS-E 45 might be your goal. (and also the Flash gear you want).

WW

Good luck fitting that into the $1600 budget. :Doh:

[jdreamer]

Actually, budget is no longer an issue anymore. I can stretch out more because I have recently received a bonus! :beer_mug:

But TS-E 45 is definitely not in my radar. I am currently looking at 5dm2 + 35mm f/2 + 50mm f/1.4 which will be around $2k + $379 + $355 and two Nissin 622 or 866. However, at this festive season, I'd rather wait a bit before I place my order (at DWI) since they won't be posting it anytime soon either.

For FF, does it mean that I will divide 35mm to 1.6, 21mm?

[jdreamer]

Just checked on DWI, they are having a Boxing Day sales.. Canon 430EX II is priced at $267! Is this a good price?

[Mark L]

For FF, does it mean that I will divide 35mm to 1.6, 21mm?

No. 35mm=35mm.

[jdreamer]

So I got the other way around.. for crop, it's 35mm x 1.6 but for FF, it's 35mm!:Doh:

[fess67]

As I read this thread, the goal has changed. What is your new budget?

As I see it you want to set up a home studio for still life. So, I am going to throw a spanner in the works and look at it from a different view - this view may change depending on your realistic budget.

Your flash options - why not go for something like an Elinchrom Dlite 4. 2 studio lamps plus softboxes for $835. Then get your 5Dmk2 and 1 lens. Add lenses as you go forward.

You will have lots of fun with them and it suits your stated genre well.

I have an Elinchrom BXRi 500 set and they are great.

[jdreamer]

I am able to to stretch up to the budget of $2.5-2.6k for the body and lenses. Another $300-400 for the studio setup. I can get 5dm2 around $1.9k then I probably get 35mm/2 and 50mm/f.14 or 85mm f/1.8 for my gear. I personally have owned both 35mm f/2 and 85mm f/1.8 before. They are both awesome lenses and fit to my usage, focusing close enough and light-weighted. Then, 2 flashes or maybe start with 1 flash and few other things.

I don't think I'm going to go for Elinchrom. That's too pro for my level and I don't think I'm willing to use that much on the studio lamps yet. :(

Have a look at my flickr (http://www.flickr.com/photos/justincptu/).

[jdreamer]

After some trials with the bodies and lenses at the store.. I think I'll save money from buying 5dm2 and buy either 60d or 7d, then compliment the new body with a 24-70mm f/2.8L! Instead of getting a good body and a few normal lenses, why not spend some money on a good glass? :D

[Seabee]

I have studio lights and never use them for the smaller stuff.............I find them absolutely cumbersome for anything other than people!

For my smaller studio stuff I have collected over the years some great things from ebay and gadget infinity.
For flashes I have 2x Vivitar 285HV....2x Yongnuo 460....1xOlympus FL36 and a recently purchased Yongnuo 560 of which I am sure I will get another, it is a solid little bugger.
With these I have 2x strobe softboxes, triggers, pc leads, snoots and an array of light modifiers for strobes.

It is light, easy and affordable................in fact I still often use them for people shots.
It will do more for you than you could imagine..........particularly if you have a smallish workspace.
You could rig up a frame around a table and attach your flashes via bungee chords etc............many, many versatile solutions!!

Good luck with your endeavour.

[Seabee]

By the way................"Good Glass'...........great idea and smart investing!!!

[KeeFy]

24-70 is great if you're doing indoor. The thing is, if you're doing studio, most modern glass (meaning even the non Ls 28-105, 18-135, etc) will be sharp at f8. Consider getting a 24-105 f4 instead of the 24-70 2.8 if you are doing purely studio work. Actually i'd recommend you to go primes for studio due to the difference in image rendering vs a zoom. Depending on how big your room is 35mm, 50mm, 85mm, 100mm, 135mm (if your room is really big).

IMO: Invest more in your studio than your glass as fess67 has mentioned. Lighting makes or breaks the photo in studio work, not the glass or the body. A good example how much it takes to make a nice setup http://vimeo.com/33672808.

Also what kind of studio work are you thinking of? People? Objects?

[jdreamer]

Wow, that setup will cost a bomb, right? I don't think I need those at the moment.

I understand that primes are going to give me more sharpness, etc but I personally feel that Sigma 30mm f/1.4 is giving me enough versatility at the moment.

My studio work will focus mainly on objects, tiny stuff, products shot, etc. Portraits will come once in a while.

[KeeFy]

Wow, that setup will cost a bomb, right? I don't think I need those at the moment.

I understand that primes are going to give me more sharpness, etc but I personally feel that Sigma 30mm f/1.4 is giving me enough versatility at the moment.

My studio work will focus mainly on objects, tiny stuff, products shot, etc. Portraits will come once in a while.

Continuous lighting is cheaper than strobes. Well... depending.. but generally it is. Check out the ebay kits, easily acheivable with about $100 for 2 light boxes, stands and globes. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-x-120W-Soft-Box-Photo-Studio-Lighting-Softbox-Video-Light-Kit-Set-Limited-Qty-/380388924650?pt=AU_Cameras_Photographic_Accessories&hash=item5890f25cea
Just an idea. There are many ways to how you want to achieve the result. Not the best work but it was my first time doing a product shoot. http://www.keefy.net/9fruit/ First page is mostly 1 shoot through brolly top left, rear of product left fill and right of product highlight. Used a torchlight to bring out the glitter and background was 3 sheets of A3 paper. 2nd page was done with a 60cm square light tent and continuous light from next to a window and a reflector on the opposite side. I still have loads to learn but it was fun and educational :).


Sharpness is not the only advantage of a prime. Distortion and contrast is the other 2 main aspects. If you're doing small stuff a light tent will do very well. Add on a few lamps and you're good to go. Easily acheivable below $100.

At 50mm (35 mm equiv) headshots will not be it's best. Consider to add on the 50 1.4 if you're staying with the crop. The sigma version is better than the canon.

[William W]

My studio work will focus mainly on objects, tiny stuff, products shot, etc. Portraits will come once in a while.


Then for whatever reason the TS-E 45 is not on the radar: as another suggestion you might consider the EF50/2.5 as an additional lens to your Sigma 30mm.

WW

[Bennymiata]

I still say that if you are doing small stuff, you can't go past geting a good macro lens.

And has been said before, good lighting is an absolute must.

The 24-105L is a great lens and I often use this lens for product shots too.
While I haven't used one, from what I've read, the Sigma 30mm has a bit too much distortion to be used as a lens for product shots, but great for landscapes.

[KeeFy]

Then for whatever reason the TS-E 45 is not on the radar: as another suggestion you might consider the EF50/2.5 as an additional lens to your Sigma 30mm.

WW

Absolutely right! Discard my 50 1.4 comment.


I still say that if you are doing small stuff, you can't go past geting a good macro lens.

And has been said before, good lighting is an absolute must.

The 24-105L is a great lens and I often use this lens for product shots too.
While I haven't used one, from what I've read, the Sigma 30mm has a bit too much distortion to be used as a lens for product shots, but great for landscapes.

Spot on! :)

[jdreamer]

After much struggling and haggling, I've finally ordered my 7D and Canon 24-70mm f/2.8 (not the new version)!!!

Waiting game has begunnnnnnnnnnnnnn! :D:D

[Dwarak]

That's a good choice I personally own the 7d and in love with the AF system you ate going to enjoy it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jdreamer]

Yeh, it's been stunning, especially the 24-70L! Sharp.