Best Tripod and what head should I use?

[dph]

I have a d5100 and like to shoot landscapes. I want to spend about 150.00 US Dollar. What would you suggest? Thank-You,

[ricktas]

if you are serious about photography as a long term hobby etc, my suggestion would be to save more and when you have about double what you have now, then look for the best you can get at the price.

Getting a cheaper tripod now might seem like a good idea, but eventually you will realise you want/need something better and spend the extra at that time anyway.

If would say a Manfrotto 190 series would be about the minimum.

[Sifor]

I echo Rick's sentiments - do not skimp out on a tripod, you'll regret it.

[Roosta]

I have the Manfrotto 190 XBPRO, with several heads. The above sentiments are good advice indeed, but, to get the best use out of what you can afford, the Manfrotto is a pretty good unit for the price. It's light, packs away to a short length, and sturdy. Your body is not too heavy for it, and for shooting scapes, it's a very capable tripod.

Tripod (http://www.manfrotto.com/professional-aluminium-tripod-black-without-head)

Head (http://www.manfrotto.com/basic-pan-tilt-head-with-quick-lock) Main head I use for sea - landscapes

This is what I have, and will hold either of my Canon bodies (50D - 1D) with any of my UWA and WA lenses. It's also pretty handy for Macro work, as the center is fully adjustable.

I have found, thanks to good advice, I get more use from my Monopole and a RRS head, for my sports shooting, but that also uses the 1D with either my 70 - 200 mm L F2.8 or the 300 mm prime.

I would not recommend that setup going onto the Manfrotto and Pan Tilt head, as the Camera/Lens set up is just to heavy, so horse's for courses. If you intend to travel with it and a light body and UWA, you'll be well pleased.

I would strongly recommend going to a shop that has a good selection of tripods, from several makers, and try your setup out on them. That way you'll see what works for you. Being your in Cali, there should be no end of Camera Shops around.

[William]

Still think the Vanguard series is good value , I've had mine out every morning Mon-Fri on the beach(Since last August) and in the sand and water and it's still smooth as (After a little spray and a wash every morning) Great for early morning long exposures , Sturdy as , I have this one http://www.vanguardworld.com.au/index.php/pv/products/photo-video/detail-1-4-14-81.html coupled with the SBH100 Ballhead http://www.vanguardworld.com.au/index.php/pv/products/photo-video/detail-1-4-23-144.html Tripod cost was $ 134.00 and the Ballhead was $84 Cameras Direct

[Cage]

I have a Manfrotto tripod and I'm quite happy with it.

However I'd advise you to consider an Arca Swiss plate-compatible head as I found the tolerances on the Manfrotto clamps to be very loose.

[richardb]

The tripod should be as stiff as possible. Stiffness comes with leg material, dimension, number of section. Better 3 instead of 4 sections. Weight???
Check out Nikonians website on this subject, it clarifies a lot.:tog::tog:

[Cage]

I contributed this article about my search for a tripod and head. http://www.ausphotography.net.au/forum/showlibrary.php?title=New_To_Photography:A_beginners_guide_to_buying_a_tripod_and_head

One thing I can state without fear of contradiction is that 'a good cheap tripod' is an oxymoron. They don't exist.

As Rick said above, you would be much wiser to save some more dollars rather than waste the ones you have on something that just won't do the job.

I wasted money on three 'cheap' tripods before I got the Manfrotto 055CXPRO3. It does the job but is still nowhere perfect, if indeed the 'perfect' tripod exists.

Cheers

Kevin

[William]

Quote Kevin : It does the job but is still nowhere perfect, if indeed the 'perfect' tripod exists.

Apparently this one called "Brian" go's pretty close Kev, $500au from Protog

Here's a review : http://www.avhub.com.au/index.php/Product-Reviews/Camera/3-legged-thing-brian-tripod.html

[mikec]

I think the perfect tripod consists of more than 1 tripod...

Not that fond of the 3 Legged Thing's, I had a look at them at CameraPro in Brisbane and I don't think they were worth the price. Having a Benro Travel Angel now, I think the build ,features and price is better IMO.

[Cage]

Quote Kevin : It does the job but is still nowhere perfect, if indeed the 'perfect' tripod exists.

Apparently this one called "Brian" go's pretty close Kev, $500au from Protog

Here's a review : http://www.avhub.com.au/index.php/Product-Reviews/Camera/3-legged-thing-brian-tripod.html


Bill, I don't know that I'd be all that comfortable having my legs intertwined with Brian's in public places, or even in private. I'm sure Brian has lots of admirable traits, but I don't think he is my cup of tea. And calling him a 'Three Legged Thing' evokes all sorts of scary images. :lol2:

BTW, welcome back from the dark side. Three or four days of 102.9 on a tranny must have been rather challenging. :lol:

[Sar NOP]

Keep saving to get a serious tripod later. In the meantime, you can shoot most landscape with a simple bean bag and a remote shutter release...

[knumbnutz]

Could not agree more, a strong tripod is going to be the ticket.

Reason why you are better off not getting cheap - because they are flimsy and will sway about, wind or no wind. Then you will go out and buy one that doesnt, so u might as well do it from the start.
If you ever do a long exposure or use heavy lenses you will soon appreciate a good tripod

I have bought all of mine big tripods cheap overseas, so if you are going OS, then look at that option too.
FWIW, I paid under $120 for my tripods with ball head and they have lasted 5years now and the ball hear/tripod is rated to 12kgs and together as a combo they weigh 2.5kg.

[Tommo1965]

ive a Gold photo tripod..its a rip off from a Manfrotto 55....seems to do the Job..also I've tried different heads..ranging from the stock pan and tilt to the Gitzo ball head.. I'm now using a manfrotto pistol grip that lays horizontally..its the best yet..very easy to adjust...

[Transformer]

I used to think that my tripod was really steady until I tested it. Here's how ... using a laser pointer fixed to my telephoto lens with a spot of removable wall putty and rubber bands, I triggered the camera shutter with timer delay and observed the laser light directed onto a wall 50 meters away. The laser light vibrated, ever so slight, but enough to compromise picture detail. Even with the camera mirror locked (up), I noticed camera shake. It was more apparent at night and movement was accentuated with the mere gust of an indoor air conditioner directed at the tripod – I could imagine how much worse it would be outside in windy conditions.

Tips. For your budget, I suggest you consider a used tripod and ball head. Heavier tripods are generally steadier, particularly in winds. The best rig will dampen/absorb vibration (obvious, I know, but in this respect, multi-ply carbon fibre is superior to aluminium and is lighter). Try to avoid a tripod with a centre column – the column sacrifices rigidity, as do 4 or more leg sections. Some of the better tripods will allow you to position your camera inches above ground level yet extend to a comfortable working height for taller users.

*removed- refer to the site rules, in particular rules 3-7 for new members*

[AVALANCHE]

I use an all metal tripod from the 70's. Works great haha.

I go into camera stores...I look at tripods...anything under $300 is plastic flimsy junk from what I have seen. Sorry!

[Cage]

Don't you just love it when you reply to a post asking for help, and you get Sweet Fanny Adams back.

No acknowledgement for the time you've taken to reply, or the fact that you've offered assistance, nada, zip, Jack Sh!t.

And no, I don't offer assistance in the hope that I'll get thanked profusely, but gee it's just common courtesy to reply, even if you only click the 'Thanks' button.

[Tommo1965]

LOL Kev....I thanked you

hows the nikon 300F4 treating you..did you get it in the end ?

- - - Updated - - -


I used to think that my tripod was really steady until I tested it. Here's how ... using a laser pointer fixed to my telephoto lens with a spot of removable wall putty and rubber bands, I triggered the camera shutter with timer delay and observed the laser light directed onto a wall 50 meters away. The laser light vibrated, ever so slight, but enough to compromise picture detail. Even with the camera mirror locked (up), I noticed camera shake. It was more apparent at night and movement was accentuated with the mere gust of an indoor air conditioner directed at the tripod – I could imagine how much worse it would be outside in windy conditions.

Tips. For your budget, I suggest you consider a used tripod and ball head. Heavier tripods are generally steadier, particularly in winds. The best rig will dampen/absorb vibration (obvious, I know, but in this respect, multi-ply carbon fibre is superior to aluminium and is lighter). Try to avoid a tripod with a centre column – the column sacrifices rigidity, as do 4 or more leg sections. Some of the better tripods will allow you to position your camera inches above ground level yet extend to a comfortable working height for taller users.

*removed- refer to the site rules, in particular rules 3-7 for new members*

Ive never tried that..but interesting findings using the laser poniter

[Cage]

Hi Tommo

Yes Mate, got the 300 f4 and the TC-14EII, and can't speak highly enough of either of them.

And re the above, just go to Live View, crank up the magnification, and see how much the camera vibrates when you just touch it, let alone activating the shutter.

[Tommo1965]

do you have any images posted with that combo.either on AP or elsewhere...if so could you post a link..im interested to ave a look mate :)

[Cage]

do you have any images posted with that combo.either on AP or elsewhere...if so could you post a link..im interested to ave a look mate :)

Have a look at my threads in our 'Bird' forum. http://www.ausphotography.net.au/forum/forumdisplay.php?69-Birds

[Tommo1965]

thanks Kev..had a look through some of your more recent posts with the 300F4 attached..it looks great..also looks pretty darn good with the 1.4 TC ...have you had chance to use any other TC with the lens ?..ive a 1.7.. that's why I ask

[Cage]

Sorry Steve, only have the 1.4X and not really thinking of anything stronger.

[arthurking83]

Hi Tommo

Yes Mate, got the 300 f4 and the TC-14EII, and can't speak highly enough of either of them.

And re the above, just go to Live View, crank up the magnification, and see how much the camera vibrates when you just touch it, let alone activating the shutter.

Kev, haven't followed your 300/4 exploits in much detail(sorry) ..

But did you know that this lens is notorious as having the worst tripod collar of any Nikon lens.

There's much in the way of literature on the net about this issue, and a few good homemade bodge jobs exist in the form of helping to minimize camera shake to a degree.

One of the most popular, cheapest and quickest solutions is to wedge something between the tripod foot and the lens body.

Give that a go as a quickstop solution to see if it helps you in any way.

Better long term solutions are re-engineering the device with strategically placed reinforcements or total replacement of the tripod collar from a well known thirdparty manufacturer(such as Kirk).

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...... using a laser pointer fixed to my telephoto lens with a spot of removable wall putty and rubber bands, .....

The only problem with this method is, how do you know how much of the vibration is caused by the tripod/head or the connection of the laser pointer to the lens?

if the interface between laser pointer and lens is flexing, then even a totally rigid support system will still show some flex/vibration as connection between the laser pointer and lens could be flexing.


Each piece of gear is going to have an impact on the rigidity of the support system, and even the things you don't normally associate with camera support can impact on the outcome of a rigid vibration free image.

Something as simple as the flooring compositions .. ie. carpet, timber floor, solid concrete slab etc ... all impact on vibration in the total system.

I have a pretty old timber flooring system in my house and for undiluted testing of support systems, I usually operate the camera remotely from another room.
Sometimes I get the situation whereby just moving from one leg to another warps the floorboards enough to move the tripod and hence slightly move the framing. Granted this can only be seen in high magnification situations ... there lies the major point.

Judge the effectiveness of your gear based on the need to suitably support a specific camera/lens requirement.

[Cage]

[QUOTE=arthurking83;1127371]Kev, haven't followed your 300/4 exploits in much detail(sorry) ..

But did you know that this lens is notorious as having the worst tripod collar of any Nikon lens.

There's much in the way of literature on the net about this issue, and a few good homemade bodge jobs exist in the form of helping to minimize camera shake to a degree.

One of the most popular, cheapest and quickest solutions is to wedge something between the tripod foot and the lens body.
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Cheers Arthur.

I was aware of this problem before I bought the lens. However there is a consensus on a lot of forums that Nikon have addressed the problem, possibly by using a stiffer metal in the lens foot. I certainly haven't seen any evidence of vibration.

This is a shot I posted recently, about an 85% crop. I don't think the detail would be available if the lens mount was not firm.

This was shot with the bare 300mm off my Manfrotto 055CXPRO3 tripod and Markins Q10 head, using a cable remote.

[arthurking83]

[QUOTE=arthurking83;1127371]......

I was aware of this problem before I bought the lens. However there is a consensus on a lot of forums that Nikon have addressed the problem, possibly by using a stiffer metal in the lens foot. I certainly haven't seen any evidence of vibration.

.......


I don't have this lens, and if I did I'd try this test for 'ya.

But apparently there is a critical shutter speed range where the issue is notable.

Try to do some shots in the 1/10 - 1/30s range using mirror lockup or exposure delay or even liveview as a reference point.

At higher shutter speeds(1/640s) you won't notice the issue. Just because you don't see the issue doesn't mean it doesn't exist.
But in saying that too, just because an issue exists doesn't necessarily mean it's a problem either. Your shooting style will dictate this.