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Thread: Reverse ND Grads ?

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    Reverse ND Grads ?

    Can anyone recommend a good Reverse ND grad setup?
    I should add that I'm looking for the none screw on type, more the frame mounted style.

    Cheers,
    Last edited by Roosta; 06-01-2013 at 5:31pm.
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    Found it Roosta, Even in the "P" Series size , Which is good for me also : http://singh-ray.com/reversegrads.html
    Canon : 30D, and sometimes the 5D mkIII , Sigma 10-20, 50mm 1.8, Canon 24-105 f4 L , On loan Sigma 120-400 DG and Canon 17 - 40 f4 L , Cokin Filters




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    Quote Originally Posted by William View Post
    Found it Roosta, Even in the "P" Series size , Which is good for me also : http://singh-ray.com/reversegrads.html
    Love your work.

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    Administrator ricktas's Avatar
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    Yep the Singh-Ray is probably the one from the better known brands. Hi-Tech make one as well, usually easy to find on E-bay
    Last edited by ricktas; 06-01-2013 at 6:55pm.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ricktas View Post
    Yep the Singh-Ray is probably the one from the better known brands. Hi-Tech make one as well, usually easy to find on E-bay
    Do you know of a Site Sponsor that sells Singh-Ray mate?

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    Administrator ricktas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roosta View Post
    Do you know of a Site Sponsor that sells Singh-Ray mate?
    Hmmm. not of the top of my head, no.

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    B&H photo do!

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    Was trolling through the bowels of the internet, and found a post by our Dylan back in 2010 - HERE On Ya Kym.

    You can buy here. http://www.teamworkphoto.com/hitech-...5_767_277.html

    I have email them to find out cost of delivery, will post their reply.

    Cheers.

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    I have a 4x6inch singh ray reverse grad, it gives a strong color cast. I prefer to use two Lee grads together as a reverse grad. I found a 1.2 hard and 0.3 soft to be a good combo. Position them like this so the dark bits overlap:

    Untitled-1.jpg

    It gives you basically the same end result as a 0.9 reverse + an 0.3 nd (non grad). below the horizon has 0.3, above the horizon has 1.2 that fades to 0.9 towards the top. You can move them around to adjust the transition.

    The downside is it takes up two filter slots, and costs more if you dont already have the grads.

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    Quote Originally Posted by hakka View Post
    I have a 4x6inch singh ray reverse grad, it gives a strong color cast. I prefer to use two Lee grads together as a reverse grad. I found a 1.2 hard and 0.3 soft to be a good combo. Position them like this so the dark bits overlap:

    Untitled-1.jpg

    It gives you basically the same end result as a 0.9 reverse + an 0.3 nd (non grad). below the horizon has 0.3, above the horizon has 1.2 that fades to 0.9 towards the top. You can move them around to adjust the transition.

    The downside is it takes up two filter slots, and costs more if you dont already have the grads.
    Thanks for that, I already have my blisteringly expensive set of 3 x soft grad NDs from Lee so now I can combine them to create the reverse ND effect.
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    I was going to say BH and Teamwork both sell them but you found it already lol
    Hakka's setup is really nice and combining grads is usually the way to go for using reverse GNDs , otherwise you end up with 'apocalyptic' looking skies and foregrounds that just seem way to bright for what they should be ( I often combine the reverse GND with the 2 or 3 stop soft in varying positions hand held )
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    Various NiSi systems : Currently using switch filter and predominantly 6 stop ND, 10 stop ND, 3 stop medium GND
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    You could also try using your standard grads as reversed std grads.

    That is, you place the grad upside down, but use the darkened edge at the line where the graduation is required.
    To visualise this, imagine the grad that it's upside down, but only the dark section is actually covering the top part of the lens. The lower section of the lens is not covered by the filter at all.
    Doing it this way tho, requires very minimal filtration strength .. an 0.3 Lee filter can give approximately a 3stop difference in exposure!
    (I have a few examples of how effective .. or not! .. this system can be, and it has gotten me out of trouble when I've needed it too)

    The problems with using a standard grad reversed make it's full time use somewhat annoying.

    Mainly in that at the top of each grad is the company and model markings, which impact on the image in the form of blurred smears.
    Not being partial to cloning on a regular basis, this is a considerable annoyance. If you don't mind cloning then it's not an issue.

    The other issue is setup time, your reversed standard grad has to be meticulously placed, or the results can look quite ordinary.
    Which then comes to the topic of placement. If you use the viewfinder as your preferred method of image composition, the placement of your eye to the viewfinder is critical to placement of the reversed std grad too. The issue is one of parallax.
    The best way to accurately place a std grad in reversed orientation is using live view(it's spot on every time) but of course the issues of using live view needs to be dealt with.

    Whilst using a reversed std grad has gotten me results over the years, I will be getting myself a set of proper reverse grads very soon.
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    Thanks all above for the replies, I've ordered a Reverse Grad and will get my in-laws to send them over. Teamwork wanted 20 Pounds for freight, so lucky for me I have a UK connection. Hakka and Ak, this is pretty much the method I was trying, but looking back now, probably not the most ideal spot.

    If I had of used the reverse grad in the situation (See my post in Land - seascapes) the rocks would have been nearly un-seen, so I guess there's a time and a place for said filters. I do want to revisit this setting, as I feel with the help of the clouds to the horizon, it would make for a good long exposure shot, and maybe capture the cloud movement as well.

    Thanks again.

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    A royal pain in the bum! arthurking83's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roosta View Post
    ......

    If I had of used the reverse grad in the situation (See my post in Land - seascapes) the rocks would have been nearly un-seen, so I guess there's a time and a place for said filters. I do want to revisit this setting, as I feel with the help of the clouds to the horizon, it would make for a good long exposure shot, and maybe capture the cloud movement as well.

    Thanks again.
    (just saw the thread/image)
    You will get that with a reverse GND too tho, where once you've placed the grad along the horizon, the top section of rocks would have been irrevocably too dark.
    This is where multi exposure, blending and or HDR is 'where it's at'.

    I'll be ordering my rGND's too soon.

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    Quote Originally Posted by arthurking83 View Post
    (just saw the thread/image)
    You will get that with a reverse GND too tho, where once you've placed the grad along the horizon, the top section of rocks would have been irrevocably too dark.
    This is where multi exposure, blending and or HDR is 'where it's at'.

    I'll be ordering my rGND's too soon.
    Ak, I did take a few bracketed shot -2 spot on and +2, just not that great with PS, so I'll revisit and see what I can do. Thanks for the memory jog.

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