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Thread: D90 remote shutter release socket.

  1. #1
    Member Photophil2010's Avatar
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    D90 remote shutter release socket.

    Over the weekend I was using the plug in remote shutter release while I took photos of a sunset.
    The plug was hard to install and when it went in I could no longer take a photo with the remote.
    The camera still works ok from the normal shutter button.
    Has this happened to anyone else, have you had it repaired?
    If so, where and how much did it cost?
    Cheers,
    Phil

    D7000, D90
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    The Nikon remote shutter plug would have to be the most useless design on a Nikon. I use my remote release a lot and hate having to get the damn thing plugged in. Sorry to hear about your troubles. It could be either on the body or the remote ends of the plug. Hope you get it sorted
    "It is one thing to make a picture of what a person looks like, it is another thing to make a portrait of who they are" - Paul Caponigro

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    The shape of the D90 remote plug makes it easy to partially insert the plug in the wrong way and my guess is that is what has happened. It is a bad design as you should even be able to partially insert it when it is 180 degrees out of whack although it is normally obvious that it hasn't seated and will usually fall out immediately.

    Rick, it certainly isn't the worst remote socket design, that honour goes to Olympus which has a remote that you can fully insert correctly (or at least you think you have) and it hasn't seated properly. Any slight movement once properly seated and you lose electrical contact too. I have lost a lot of shots with the Olympus remote cable.
    Last edited by peterb666; 28-04-2011 at 9:44pm.
    Cheers

    PeterB666


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    Member Tommo1965's Avatar
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    I just got a Nikon shutter release for my D300s...not sure if its that same as the D90...but what a pain it id..I doubt Ill ever use the screw thread to keep it in..as I doubt Id ever be able to undo it !!...you need a pair of needle nose pliers really...crap Idea from Nikon

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    Why not put a dab of nail polish on all your plugs on the the side that is facing you or facing up.
    Waiting on a train

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tommo1965 View Post
    I just got a Nikon shutter release for my D300s...not sure if its that same as the D90...but what a pain it id..I doubt Ill ever use the screw thread to keep it in..as I doubt Id ever be able to undo it !!...you need a pair of needle nose pliers really...crap Idea from Nikon
    No, the D90 remote plug is rectangular with just a little bit of metal removed from one side. It fits in the hole but doesn't insert all the way when put in the wrong way around.

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    i nkow it doesnt help your current plug problem but why not go wireless? I have a wireless one (really cheap too) and it works great. it even has a torch built in

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    Ving, I have replaced the broken part in the D90.
    I understand that the wireless remote only works from in front of the camera. Is this true?

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    A royal pain in the bum! arthurking83's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Photophil2010 View Post
    .....
    I understand that the wireless remote only works from in front of the camera. Is this true?
    That's true if you use the infra red(IR) type remote. these are cool to use, apart from the need to direct them from in front of the camera, but a small mirror could be set up to redirect the beam from behind to the IR sensor. Annoying but possible(and I've done it).

    I think David(Ving) is referring to the thirdparty wireless remotes, from the likes of Phottix and Yongnuo, and others.
    These are fairly cheap to purchase considering their ability.
    I have two wireless remotes from Phottix and the range so far(in the few tests I've done), have been up to 50m away.
    That's good enough for me, and any further is of no use for my purposes.

    If it's just a basic remote you want or need, I suggest the Phottix Cleon model. One reason for this is that even if you run out of batteries, you can still use the remote receiver in a wired configuration, as a remote.
    Some of the other types always require the use of a battery on the module that connects in a wired configuration.
    (ie the Plato uses the transmitter unit for the wired configuration, but it still needs to have power in the batteries to operate in wired mode).

    I don't know how the other wireless remotes work, as I only have those two to play with.
    If you already have a wired remote, then this may not be a concern to you anyhow.

    I have a Nikon IR ML-L3(for the D70s) and my son uses it regularly when he uses the camera. The battery a button type CR2025, has now lasted for over 5 years!

    just some info.
    Nikon D800E, D300, D70s
    {Nikon}; -> 50/1.2 : 500/8 : 105/2.8VR Micro : 180/2.8 ais : 105mm f/1.8 ais : 24mm/2 ais
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    {Tamron}; -> 17-50/2.8 : 28-75/2.8 : 70-200/2.8 : 300/2.8 SP MF : 24-70/2.8VC

    {Yongnuo}; -> YN35/2N : YN50/1.8N


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    Using the Nikon IR ML-L3, whilst the IR receiver is on the front of the camera, it does have a reasonably wide detection angle. I've been able to trigger it from side on.

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    what arthur and carl said. If you are behind the camera then fine but the angle you can shoot wirelessly is considerably enough to get you out of frame

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    Thanks all for the info about the IR remote. It sounds good enough to try, if not too expensive.
    One last question, can I use the IR remote to hold the shutter open for long periods on the "bulb" setting?

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    A royal pain in the bum! arthurking83's Avatar
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    Yep!

    Also if you want to try the IR remote route.. give this a try.

    Find any or all remotes in your house.
    Point each remote at the camera(making sure it's set to release via IR remote of course) and press each and every button on each and every remote.

    99% chance that one of the IR codes on one of your remotes will trigger the camera!

    Only reason I say 99% chance of getting lucky, is that I got lucky with my D70s and found that one of the buttons on a cheapo replacement remote I got many years ago works (I think via the volume up or down button??)

    Cross IR code talk is very common if happen to get a bad break like this. While it may sound like a cool thing, trust me, having the stereo come on (at something like full volume) when trying to open the tray in the DVD player is 'excruciatingly annoying' !!

    Needless to say, the DVD player is now gone because of this annoyance.

    Of course it's not practical to take a large TV type remote out photographing, but could be a good way to check if IR remote is something that works for you.

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    Absolutely. It works by pressing the remote button to open the shutter, press it again to close (or, on my Nikon, 30 mins).

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    I think the D7000 has the same plug as the D90 and I have had the same problem. It was not the socket in the camera but the plug and lead for the remote that was the problem. It was such a tight fit that when you got it in, it wouldn't come out. I was packing up on a job and accidently pulled on the cable and I think it broke the wire or joint inside. Still not really my fault as the damn thing should never have been that tight in the first place. I replaced it with a different remote which fits correctly and haven't had a problem since. My D300 plugs and socket never has this problem.
    D7000, D300, Nikkor 50mm F1.4D, Nikkor 18-200mm, Tokina 11-16mm F2.8, Sigma 8mm F3.5, SB800, 3x SB600


  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Photophil2010 View Post
    Thanks all for the info about the IR remote. It sounds good enough to try, if not too expensive.
    One last question, can I use the IR remote to hold the shutter open for long periods on the "bulb" setting?
    absolutely. I got mine off ebay for about 10 bucks but if you get one off aby make sure it can do what you want as they might differ from model to model.

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    Member Zonda's Avatar
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    I use a remote trigger for timelapse work. I ended up breaking my intervalometer during the first week of my South American holiday due to putting it in the wrong way. I thought it might be the body's plug had failed as the intervalometer was still showing as working, but after ordering a replacement that was the issue. I would try and borrow a functioning remote to ensure that it isn't the body as this is far more expensive to fix than a replacement wired remote.

    Cheers,

    Dave.

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