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Thread: Night pics with big background & foreground subject

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    Night pics with big background & foreground subject

    I want to take a photo of an object, in front of the Harbour Bridge at night.

    I've taken a few night shots of the bridge and the opera house before (so I am aware I'll need a tripod, slow shutter speeds and a large depth of field). But I've never taken night pics of an object with big things in the background and googling hasn't helped so far.

    Is anything different when there's a foreground subject added to the mix of a traditional night bridge shot?
    Will the available light from the long exposure be enough to illuminate the object, or do I need to use a flash so the object in the foreground is illuminated?

    I'm asking because I don't know if I'll have time to do test shots, before I need to do this for a group and I'd hate for none of the pics to work.

    I assume if I do need a flash, I'll have to buy one, as the camera flash probably won't be effective enough - is that right?
    (I have a tripod, a Nikon D70s and a Nikkor 18-70mm lens)
    Nikon D70s / Nikkor 18-70mm / Nikkor 12-24mm / Tamron 90mm macro / SB600

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    Member merlin's Avatar
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    Whats the object how large small?? colour? How light is the area your thinking of going to?

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    Whether camera flash would do will depend on the object (size, colour/luminosity). One way is to do the long exposure and then use a manually operated flash at the end to illuminate the object. But you would have to practice, I imagine. Someone on here may be able to offer advice.

    If you are in Sydney you could proabaly hire an off camera flash, and I'm sure you can download instrcutions for them on how to fire independently from the camera (if they do not come with the hired equipment).
    Odille

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    Sorry - the object is a motorbike (or multiple motorbikes).

    I think you're right Analog. I'm just going to have to find a way to practice it first.

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    Maybe you can take the photos around 20 minutes after sunset so you still have some light which you can use to your advantage. You can use exposure lock to lock in the exposure of the background and use a flash to illuminate the bikes in the foreground.

    Just an idea.
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    You can also illuminate the foreground subject with Torches etc.
    "It is one thing to make a picture of what a person looks like, it is another thing to make a portrait of who they are" - Paul Caponigro

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    I often do what rick has suggested - allows you creativity in lighting like that too
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    I would use one or more off camera flash units if you can get hold of them.. They can be fired wirelessly, or I understand that the Nikon has a commander mode or some such that can fire off camera flashes.

    Set your shutter speed for the background. The flash(s) will only fire for a very short (about 1/10000 sec) and will illuminate the bikes, the shutter will stay open to capture the background.

    Its all a lot of fun, and can bve a lot to get your head around. I have sworn never to use on camera flash again after playing with multiple off camera flashes.

    If your interested you can go here

    http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html

    and here

    http://strobist.blogspot.com/2007/06...roduction.html

    for some real interestiung stuff from the experts (more than I could ever tell you )
    have fun
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    Quote Originally Posted by ricktas View Post
    You can also illuminate the foreground subject with Torches etc.
    I think I'm going to give this a try. A quick question - would you expose for the object while flashlit, or would you expose for the lit-up bridge in the background?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chromo View Post
    I think I'm going to give this a try. A quick question - would you expose for the object while flashlit, or would you expose for the lit-up bridge in the background?
    Always expose for the highlights (brightest part of your scene). If you expose for something else, you will end up with blown highlights, which are impossible to recover. Whereas shadow detail can often be recovered and improved quite well. This applies to all photography, not just night shots etc

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    Not sure if this is the 'right' way, but I've tried using 2nd Curtain flash.

    The camera will give off an inital, smaller pulse at the start of the exposure then give a full (depending on your setting) flash right at the end.

    If you're within a few metres of the foreground subjects, this ought to be enough, otherwise you may need a external flash.

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    Huge thanks to all who have helped me in this thread. Not only have your posts helped, but you've spurred me on to do further learning. Thanks for taking the time to assist know-nothing newbies guys

    I love this place, even though I'm more of a lurker by nature. Now I need to find more time to practice, practice, practice!

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