Quote Originally Posted by jim View Post
.... The only difficulty I see is that you can't see the iso in the viewfinder, so you might not realise that you are reaching the extremes of your chosen range. Or even exceeding them sometimes.
Like Gazza said, this is camera dependent.
Nikon cameras like D300 type pro/semi pro models all have ISO value in the vf LCD.
Some models also tell you if you have set ISO to auto too, so instead of just indicating ISO, they light up ISO Auto(where the auto is listed under the ISO indicator).
Not sure what vf info the semi pro models like D7200 gives tho.

Quote Originally Posted by Hamster View Post
Oh, one thing I was going to say @arthurking83 is spot metering your subject may ensure it is correctly exposed, but how do you deal with other parts of the image that may then be over or under exposed? ...
I think it depends on how you like to shoot.
I've found matrix too hit and miss, so just stopped using it.
Even for landscapes, I do manual matrix metering in that I'll set the spot point over on the highlight, or shadow I want captured as well, then back onto the subject I'm more interested in for the exposure.
For highlights, I'll add a filter where practical, otherwise just expose a little darker on the subject(where practical) knowing that I can regain exposure latitude back in PP on both exposure points.

Of course there are times when you're simply going to blow highlights or lose shadow detail no matter what .. the metering type used makes no difference, that's just a dynamic range issue for that sensor.

I think my main gripe with matrix is that neither the metering system, nor the camera's other features really understands that a white subject is white, grey, black or pink!
And I don't trust them to predict what it is that it sees.

eg. if you just meter on a white cloud with zero compensation(ie. neutral) the exposure the camera will output will be that ubiquitous 18% grey value that it's calibrated to do so.
But I don't want grey clouds, I want white ones, so I always meter on a cloud, pop exposure compensation +ively up to about +0.7 or +1.0 Ev, which then meters that part of the subject matter as white instead of grey.
Take a shutter speed reading and then balance the use of filter, and exposure latitude as best as I can for the scene.

Sometimes there are parts of a scene that simply are impossible to capture correctly. eg. the sun. if you try to capture a scene with the sun in it, and any shadowy areas as well, and those dark areas are important, then the sun blowing out really doesn't matter much.
It's the sun, and my choice is to always allow it to blow out(usually).
I know my methods are slow, and it is done deliberately so.