Big Siggy

[Fruengalli]

Thanks Ian..these are fantastic shots.There is hope for me yet but I hope I don't have to change to the dark side (couldn't afford it)

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Thanks Tony...I'll keep chippin away at it

[Roosta]

Just my 2 cents worth - I recently purchased the Canon 300 mm F4 L IS, I have found with shooting Rugby, the One Shot setting, but in custom settings, I use the continue with AF after first shot, and this seems to bring best results, even in high burst mode. I did try AI- Servo, but with a greater miss than hit rate, and with using the af on the points above center, as in the center focus spot aimed main body, but the AF focus points at head height/double point and get great results. This is on my 1D Mk 11n, and yes the focus is different, but I guess I'm saying, you need to find what works for you and your equipment.

Have you tried using say the left focal point keeping the focal point in front of the surfer, as see if that helps, and right for right handers, rather then center?

With what Tony "Tannin" mentions re monos and IS, the 300 mm has a panning and all ways IS mode, If you have it set to panning on the mono, at slower shutter speeds, it trys to over compensate for the movement, and I get blurry shots, If I go IS 2 it counters both vertical and horizontal movement, but at slower speeds it still try's to compensate too much on a pod, so I use it handheld if IS needed, and it works a treat.

[Fruengalli]

Just my 2 cents worth - I recently purchased the Canon 300 mm F4 L IS, I have found with shooting Rugby, the One Shot setting, but in custom settings, I use the continue with AF after first shot, and this seems to bring best results, even in high burst mode. I did try AI- Servo, but with a greater miss than hit rate, and with using the af on the points above center, as in the center focus spot aimed main body, but the AF focus points at head height/double point and get great results. This is on my 1D Mk 11n, and yes the focus is different, but I guess I'm saying, you need to find what works for you and your equipment.


Have you tried using say the left focal point keeping the focal point in front of the surfer, as see if that helps, and right for right handers, rather then center?

With what Tony "Tannin" mentions re monos and IS, the 300 mm has a panning and all ways IS mode, If you have it set to panning on the mono, at slower shutter speeds, it trys to over compensate for the movement, and I get blurry shots, If I go IS 2 it counters both vertical and horizontal movement, but at slower speeds it still try's to compensate too much on a pod, so I use it handheld if IS needed, and it works a treat.

Cheers Blue,
I use #2 setting cause it'll be me wobbling about at all angles as opposed to horizontal movement. The shots I'm taking are at 250-350m range so that is also making things awkward but also the pan speed is very slow. As Tony said the focus (apparently) on the 5DII is rubbish & the only cross point is the centre, the rest are vertical or horizontal so I'm gunna stick with that (one less variable in the equation). I think you're right about servo...just doesn't seem to cut it particularly subjects coming at you & also as Tony said about "f" ratings re autofocus. I'll look into continue AF after first shot...don't know if it's on my 5 or not but more science is about to happen people!!! The other thing is given the focus distance & aperture I should get something like 150m depth of field & so if I do MY job properly focus should be reasonable.

[Roosta]

Looking at the 5D Mk11 AF on the USA Canon website, I didn't realise it was the same as my 50D. With what I mentioned above, if I'm using my 50D for faster sports, I shoot in portrait, and that way I can utilise the focal point one to the left or right (Which would be top or bottom in landscape stance), and not two away if in landscape, as in the furthest focal point. With panning and maybe slightly unsteady hands, I'd forgo the OS/IS and up the ISO - use a faster shutter speed than the focal length, say 1/800 + minimum and maybe even + the EV.

There doesn't seem to be a One shot and AF continues after first shot setting on the 5D, unlike the much older 1D I have, which has a 45 point focal plane against the 9 in the 5D.

Do you have a couple of pics you can put up and leave the EXIF attached? If not, what setting are you using to get the surf shots? You mentioned ISO 800, was it a particularly poor light day? I'm still leaning toward the OS is holding you back the most.

If you go here and open the PDF 5D instruction manual, and go to page 83, it talks of the AF sensitivity of lens with an AP greater F5.6 and how it will affect the focus.

[Warbler]

There doesn't seem to be a One shot and AF continues after first shot setting on the 5D, unlike the much older 1D I have

Roosta, look up AI-Focus, as distinct from AI-Servo. The 5DMkII has both those modes. It's in the menu on the older 1 Series. It's a separate setting on the 5D Mk II and Mk III.

You may also be surprised to find it also on your 50D.

[Roosta]

Roosta, look up AI-Focus, as distinct from AI-Servo. The 5DMkII has both those modes. It's in the menu on the older 1 Series. It's a separate setting on the 5D Mk II and Mk III.

You may also be surprised to find it also on your 50D.

Looked at that Warbler, but it does mention a stationary object that has to start moving for AI - Focus to jump to AI - Servo. I did know mate, it's on the 50D, never used it though, I use my focal setup as mentioned above, with good success. Never held a 5D, nor looked into them this much. I know most that shot with them though, seem to use them as a landscape/portrait body, rather than a sport body. I wonder if, to hold a good focus lock first on AI - Focus (Stationary object) it won't react quick enough for a moving object, especially a surfer. Again on the 1D, I can set the focus speed on the body to suit the situation, it has several speeds to choose from, luckily for me, maybe the focus sensitivity is just not quick enough on the 5D MK 11, fullstop.

There's a good read on the top of page 80 re tracking with a manual selected point, re my point, and in AI - Servo.

Sounds like some fun with experimentation for the OP. All ends up.

Cheers Warbler.

[Fruengalli]

Thought I'd come up with a brilliant solution....suggested to my dearest that the guys on the forum said I needed to buy a Canon 1Mk46 with a 600 f1.8 lens. Apparently the Big Siggy will be located such that it will never see day light again (camera body still attached) & a fair amount of other comment which can't be published on a public forum. I'll try & post some pics later Blue but in the mean time I've got plenty of info to work with just need some swell now.

[Warbler]

Your 5DMk II would not perform any worse than any xxD does for sports work. Sure, it won't match a 1D, but that shouldn't cause problems if you use it right. I just wouldn't expect every shot to be a keeper with the Sigma, or any other lens for that matter. I don't know any sports photographers who have a 100% keeper rate. All you can do if you keep the same gear is hone your skills and timing.

[Mark L]

... Apparently the Big Siggy will be located such that it will never see day light again (camera body still attached) ...

PM me when this happens. Alternative transactions and arrangements should be made!!

[Fruengalli]

PM me when this happens. Alternative transactions and arrangements should be made!!

for sale one slightly soiled 5dii fitted with BIG siggy....any offers accepted.....anything at all