Results 1 to 12 of 12

Thread: Glare on Pics

  1. #1
    Site Rules Breach - Permanent Ban
    Join Date
    07 Jan 2012
    Location
    SA
    Posts
    1

    Glare on Pics

    Hi All,

    Should be obvious that I am new here,

    I'm playing around with bulb mode and night shots and I seem to get a glare type effect.



    Any ideas on how to reduce it or remove it all together?

    If i knew the correct name for it I would just search...

    Cheers

  2. #2
    Account Closed Wayne's Avatar
    Join Date
    07 Dec 2009
    Location
    Eastside
    Posts
    1,639
    Lens flare is what you have here. By design some lenses flare more than others, and some virtually not at all. Try to position the camera at a slightly different angle, and make sure the front & rear elements are clean.

  3. #3
    Ausphotography Regular
    Join Date
    01 Dec 2011
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    925
    The flare may also be the result of a user fitted filter, such as a UV filter, screwed on the front of the lens.

    If you do have a filter on the lens, take it off and take the shot again to see if the flare reduces/remains.

    Cheers

    Dennis

  4. #4
    .........thats it........
    Join Date
    20 Jan 2009
    Location
    geelong vic
    Posts
    323
    if you slow down the shutter speed just a fraction it wont be so obvious

  5. #5
    user tittle Mark L's Avatar
    Join Date
    21 Nov 2010
    Location
    Mudgee
    Posts
    8,247
    You need to change the copyright year in you camera Ben. That won't help the lens flare though.
    Welcome to AP.
    Last edited by Mark L; 07-01-2012 at 10:36pm.
    "If you think you can or if you think you can't,
    your right."

    60D, a couple of old lenses.

  6. #6
    Member FallingHorse's Avatar
    Join Date
    07 Apr 2010
    Location
    Adelaide River
    Posts
    1,497
    Quote Originally Posted by jimbob12 View Post
    if you slow down the shutter speed just a fraction it wont be so obvious
    The image was shot in Bulb for 142 seconds. Should it be even longer
    Jodie

    Gear - Canon EOS 7D, EOS 50D, 70-200 F2.8L IS, Canon EF 100mm 2.8 Macro, Sigma 10-20mm, nifty fifty, EF2xII, 580EX, 430EXII, EFx2 III and a long wishlist


  7. #7
    Ausphotography Regular
    Join Date
    04 Aug 2011
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    649
    Were you using a Canon Kit Zoom lens at FL = 18mm?

    As well as other elements mentioned (i.e. remove filter; cleaning lens and lens angle to the lights), you will, in most shooting scenarios, lessen the likelihood of that blue/purple flare you have circled, if you use a smaller aperture (about F/9~F/11 would be a good start) and also use that particular lens at about FL = 24mm(**1).

    Generalizations:
    In most cases a Prime Lens will be less likely to make that Flare.
    In most cases a Longer Lens will be less likely to make that Flare.

    If it is the purple/blue Flare which concerns you, it is not that much considering the apparent shooting scenario - it might be best to consider that Post Production should be used, to remove it.


    WW


    Foot note:


    (**1): If it is the Kit Zoom lens you have then (from my memory for all the variants of the EF-S18 to 55) as you zoom, the lens will extend and retract.
    If this is so, then if you use the lens at the FL when the zoom is retracted the most (the shortest physical total length) then this will lessen the likelihood of this flare.
    I think this Focal Length is about 24mm, when the kit Lens is at its shortest physical length.
    Last edited by William W; 08-01-2012 at 6:23am. Reason: added last para: "to consider that Post Production should be used

  8. #8
    Ausphotography Regular
    Join Date
    04 Aug 2011
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    649
    Quote Originally Posted by jimbob12 View Post
    if you slow down the shutter speed just a fraction it wont be so obvious


    Why?

    WW

  9. #9
    It's all about the Light!
    Tech Admin
    Kym's Avatar
    Join Date
    15 Jun 2008
    Location
    Modbury, Adelaide
    Posts
    8,964
    Shutter speed is fine. It's all about the lens and possibly a useless UV filter (if there).
    I'd close down the aperture for this as an alternate attempt. Leave the SS the same.

    Your EXIF...
    Camera Model: Canon EOS REBEL T2i
    Focal Length: 18.0mm
    Aperture: f/5.6 <<< try f/11 or f/16
    Exposure Time: 142.000 s
    ISO equiv: 100
    Exposure Bias: none
    Metering Mode: Matrix
    Exposure Mode: Manual
    White Balance: Auto
    Flash Fired: No (enforced)
    Color Space: sRGB
    regards, Kym Gallery Honest & Direct Constructive Critique Appreciated! ©
    Digital & film, Bits of glass covering 10mm to 500mm, and other stuff



  10. #10
    .........thats it........
    Join Date
    20 Jan 2009
    Location
    geelong vic
    Posts
    323
    ooops i meant make the shutter speed shorter not longer i find that if i leave the shutter open too long i get a lot of the flare but if i shorten the time its not as bad
    sooooorry for confusing you

  11. #11
    Ausphotography Regular
    Join Date
    04 Aug 2011
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    649
    Quote Originally Posted by jimbob12 View Post
    . . .i meant make the shutter speed shorter not longer . . . i find that if i leave the shutter open too long i get a lot of the flare but if i shorten the time its not as bad . . .
    Thanks for answering my question.
    That's an interesting result.

    What lens(es)? What Camera(s)?

    I would expect that reducing the Shutter Speed (and increasing the ISO to accommodate the same exposure), would result in the same amount of Flare for any one aperture setting and any one scene.

    However, I would expect that reducing the Shutter Speed and making no adjustment to the ISO or the Aperture would reduce the overall exposure and the Flare would in this case appear less: but the exposure would be less overall, too.

    And, I'd expect that reducing the Shutter Speed and opening the Aperture would in most circumstances make the lens prone to more flare, because of the wider aperture.


    I was hoping that you had some definitive A/B tests following the lines of Long Exposure Reciprocity for Digital Sensors / Sensor Over-Excitement or a similar possibility.


    WW

  12. #12
    .........thats it........
    Join Date
    20 Jan 2009
    Location
    geelong vic
    Posts
    323
    lol sorry no tests available
    i just find it doesnt matter for night shots to be a bit underexposed as then the sky is darker and you dont get the city lights glow as much. and in pp you can up whatever highlights you want brighter..

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •