How I Shoot Storms.

[Dink]

This my First attempt at writing a guide or How To.

I like to chase Storms they fascinate me, I enjoy the Build up just as much as the chase, but out here I'm lucky that most storm's hone in to where I live and don't need to go very far to capture Images.

First off the information with in this guide is my opinion and only intended as a guide, I will not be held responsible of loss of equipment or personal injuries that may occur during this activity.

There is NO way to guarantee your safety if you venture into or near severe weather. There is also NO way to guarantee your safety when you venture into an area recently struck by severe weather.
There maybe fallen debris and fast flowing water and submerged objects and other unforeseeable dangers.
Keep a good look out.

Storm chasing is a dangerous activity, Always remember personal safety.
Most of the time I use my car as a refuge for when the storm is getting to close.
Storm photography can be a lot of fun result in some Stunning Images, but stay safe! No storm photograph is worth jeopardizing your safety and many of the best shots can be had before or after the worst of the storm anyway.


Here is a video that explains how lightning is formed.

<!-- m -->http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl ... JubgrI0T0g<!-- m -->

Before I go out to take photos of a storm I look at the weather Radars. This one is good as it also shows lightning.

<!-- m -->http://www.weatherzone.com.au/radar<!-- m -->

BOM_national radar link too

And even out in the field I use my Mobile phone to check what's happening on the radar.
Some storms can have the capability of flash flooding so be aware of your surroundings.
Out here in Central West Queensland, it's what's known as black soil and can be quite boggy very quickly so I have to be careful of not getting stuck.

A good sturdy Tripod is a must there is sometime strong wind involved with storms, so make sure your camera is secure.
It would be a very expensive photo if the camera falls over.

I use a remote shutter release, to help keep the camera shake to a minimum, and live view to help compose the shot.

Day time storms you can use the same settings as you would with any other landscape work.
I have a screw type UV filter to help protect the front element of the lens, also a screw type Circular Polarizer filter to help make the clouds and sky pop.

I try to include an object that shows the scale of the storm whether it be a tree, structure, fence.
I also like getting down low to give a more dramatic view of the storm, it also aid's the stabilization of the camera.

As you all know water and electronics don' mix, generally when there is a storm there will be water in the form of rain hail or snow (precipitation)
So have a think about taking an umbrella or other weather proofing equipment.
I personally stop shooting if it starts to rain and get back to a road that wont become boggy after 10 ml of rain.

Lens cloths are a must if you have a light rain, dust or debris that can be whipped up by the approaching storm front.

Lightning Photos.

Lightning shots can be quite impressive to capture and give's me a real buzz knowing I have captured something that no one else has caught.
Every shot is different, so they are unique.
SAFETY is a must with this type of photography. Don’t take unnecessary chances during storm Chasing, it's not worth getting hurt or even Killed for that "SHOT"

During the day capturing strikes is a hit a miss affair, but It give's me great excitement to capture one. Like the holy grail for me.

Capturing lightning at earlier or later time's of the day is much easier than during the middle of the day, as the increased time the shutter is open gives you more chances of getting a strike or even multiple strikes in the shot.
Night shooting is hard to focus, Set your lens on Manual Focus and focus for infinity as most times the lightning is far form you. it may take a couple of frames to get there but its worth persevering with

The speed at which some storms move can some times blur a Strike with cloud moving over the exposed strike So I adjust the ISO to give a shorter exposure time.
Night shooting there is not much available light so a long exposure aids in lighting the foreground, so I try to find a happy medium.
Depending on the distance of the strikes I adjust the Aperture, further out I tend to use a larger aperture and as they become closer or more frequently I stop down to stop the strike from over exposing.

I have spent 2 years with this type of photography and was disappointed with my earlier shots but as I go along it gets easier so hopefully this guide will help others who wish to get that "Perfect Shot"
I still have a lot to learn with my photography and will take any C&C on board and hopefully help others form what I have learned already.

Thanks to you guys for looking and commenting on my images it has helped me learn a massive amount.

Cheers Deon.