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Thread: Test image after calibration

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    My friends call me Dave
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    Test image after calibration

    I calibrating my monitor with W7 colour management.
    Please let me know how this looks on your calibrated monitor please
    This image on my screen before pp was -1.5 under exposed
    Thanks for looking

    Canon 7d efs 15-85mm, Sigma 150-500mm. Nicon coolpix 5400


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    keen learner of new tricks.
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    looks a little over exposed to me Duane...maybe half a stop. The faces and brides chest and arms look that way and the dress looks about a stop over but I don`t think that can be corrected a lot. Lets see what some others say...
    Graeme
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    I agree, gee that's a horrid background though
    Darren
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    My friends call me Dave
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    Yep I agree too on exposure and the BG Darren dose suck

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    Sunrise Chaser
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    Just a thought Dave, I agree it is over exposed on the dress especially, If you calibrated your monitor by eye, Maybe you've got it to dark (The Monitor) Seeing were're all seeing on our Electronicly Calibrated Monitors to bright, Did you check the little Calibration bar at the bottom of the page , Scroll down to the bottom, If not pack all your gear up , Pooter and all and I'll calibrate it for you Over a few beers
    Canon : 30D, and sometimes the 5D mkIII , Sigma 10-20, 50mm 1.8, Canon 24-105 f4 L , On loan Sigma 120-400 DG and Canon 17 - 40 f4 L , Cokin Filters




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    Quote Originally Posted by William View Post
    Just a thought Dave, I agree it is over exposed on the dress especially, If you calibrated your monitor by eye, Maybe you've got it to dark (The Monitor) Seeing were're all seeing on our Electronicly Calibrated Monitors to bright, Did you check the little Calibration bar at the bottom of the page , Scroll down to the bottom, If not pack all your gear up , Pooter and all and I'll calibrate it for you Over a few beers
    How exactly are you meant to use those calibration bars?
    Canon 500D | EFS 15-85mm IS | EF 50mm F/1.8 II | EFS 18-55mm IS | EFS 55-250mm IS | Tamron 90mm F/2.8 Macro

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    Sunrise Chaser
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    Just make sure you can just make out the different segments , Especially at either end , It should look smooth and gradual, But be still able to see all the Graduations through the whole bar , This is not calibration , But is a good help in getting your Shadows and Highlights looking viewable

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    My friends call me Dave
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    Quote Originally Posted by William View Post
    Just a thought Dave, I agree it is over exposed on the dress especially, If you calibrated your monitor by eye, Maybe you've got it to dark (The Monitor) Seeing were're all seeing on our Electronicly Calibrated Monitors to bright, Did you check the little Calibration bar at the bottom of the page , Scroll down to the bottom, If not pack all your gear up , Pooter and all and I'll calibrate it for you Over a few beers
    Good onya Bill now im thirsty, I usually have my first about 2pm, not long to go Thanks for the offer though William
    I can just make out the end segments on the Calibration bar so I suppose that's good, before I did the calibration I could not
    Kim put this link up in another thread Filthy and I found it very good
    http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/

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    Sunrise Chaser
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    Yep thats a goodie, Here are a few more as well that may help , I used these before I bought a Spyder3 Express

    http://www.photoscientia.co.uk/Gamma.htm

    http://www.drycreekphoto.com/Learn/m...alibration.htm

    http://www.normankoren.com/makingfineprints1A.html
    http://www.displaymate.com/check.html

    Hope these help - Bill

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    Drifter, Racer and Picture Taker
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    Are these Spyder calibrators any good?
    Are they easy to use for a first timer?

    Which model would you reccomend?
    I need to get my monitors calibrated.
    All my photos are taken with recycled pixels.
    Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit.
    Wisdom, is knowing not to serve it in a fruit salad.

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    Sunrise Chaser
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    I dont want to get into an arguement about which is best The Spyder3 Express is good and only around $120 delivered , I've had prints done lately in Fuji Pearl by a professional Printer, And what I saw on my Monitor was the same as the printed Image , Dead easy to use as well , Just load the disc> Install and follow the prompts , Hey , I could do it

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    A. P's Culinary Indiscriminant mongo's Avatar
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    mongo has 2 monitors - neither is calibrated. Both look slightly different to each other. However, even on Mongo's monitors, your image is slightly overexposed; particularly the white dress. But hey, Mongo's are uncalibrated so don't listen to what he says necessarily
    Nikon and Pentax user



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    I got an older spyder2 for $50 or something off eBay. Work a treat and really couldn't be simpler

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    Dave, for the visual cue to how much the over exposure is, always check the histogram. There is over exposure in the image.
    Some histogram tools in various software have the ability to display lost highlights/shadow in the image via flashing cues for each.
    For example if you have a copy of Lightroom you click on the small triangle in the top right corner of the histogram graph and it will show you where the lost highlights are in the image.
    Of course other software will vary on how it all works, but it's a good way to get a finer tuned pseudo calibration.

    The only other thing I wanted to mention was the slight blue cast in the image. The whites especially in the groom's shirt look to have too much of a blue cast, mainly in the darker areas of the white sections.

    This is usually due to a cooler than ideal WB setting in camera and no adjustment made in PP.
    If you shot in cloudy conditions, and used AWB in camera, (we know you shot in raw mode in camera) first thing is to set WB to cloudy and take it from there.

    For me, I would set WB in the raw file from what ever it was, to either cloudy or about 5700-6200K(depending on what software you're using)



    Only because Darren mentioned the background(and he's most definitely right too! ) if you have unappealing backgrounds to contend with, first thing you do with the subjects is to pull them away from the background in the hope that you can get it blurred easily.
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  15. #15
    My friends call me Dave
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    Quote Originally Posted by mongo View Post
    mongo has 2 monitors - neither is calibrated. Both look slightly different to each other. However, even on Mongo's monitors, your image is slightly overexposed; particularly the white dress. But hey, Mongo's are uncalibrated so don't listen to what he says necessarily
    Thanks Mongo. Its a wonder you can see any thing with those eyes

  16. #16
    My friends call me Dave
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    Quote Originally Posted by kiwi View Post
    I got an older spyder2 for $50 or something off eBay. Work a treat and really couldn't be simpler
    Very good Darren I must have a look see on ebay

  17. #17
    My friends call me Dave
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    Quote Originally Posted by arthurking83 View Post
    Dave, for the visual cue to how much the over exposure is, always check the histogram. There is over exposure in the image.
    Some histogram tools in various software have the ability to display lost highlights/shadow in the image via flashing cues for each.
    For example if you have a copy of Lightroom you click on the small triangle in the top right corner of the histogram graph and it will show you where the lost highlights are in the image.
    Of course other software will vary on how it all works, but it's a good way to get a finer tuned pseudo calibration.

    The only other thing I wanted to mention was the slight blue cast in the image. The whites especially in the groom's shirt look to have too much of a blue cast, mainly in the darker areas of the white sections.

    This is usually due to a cooler than ideal WB setting in camera and no adjustment made in PP.
    If you shot in cloudy conditions, and used AWB in camera, (we know you shot in raw mode in camera) first thing is to set WB to cloudy and take it from there.

    For me, I would set WB in the raw file from what ever it was, to either cloudy or about 5700-6200K(depending on what software you're using)



    Only because Darren mentioned the background(and he's most definitely right too! ) if you have unappealing backgrounds to contend with, first thing you do with the subjects is to pull them away from the background in the hope that you can get it blurred easily.
    I only found out yesterday looking at a tutorial on PS that camera raw has that feature Arthur and its almost a 2 click fix and
    dose a better job than I can do by adjusting all other sliders and visually trying to do it.
    I will have a go at warming the image to see if it will get rid of the blue cast, thanks for the tip.

    As for the BG I am going back to where the wedding was and shoot a nice image to use as a BG, the couple will recognize the location
    and wont know any difference

  18. #18
    A. P's Culinary Indiscriminant mongo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duane Pipe View Post
    Thanks Mongo. Its a wonder you can see any thing with those eyes


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