Just one quick thing that as been talked about, Batteries you can pick up almost all camera batteries from battery world at half the cost , all mine have been from there and never a problem.
Just one quick thing that as been talked about, Batteries you can pick up almost all camera batteries from battery world at half the cost , all mine have been from there and never a problem.
A Photo is only as good as the eyes that look at.
Camera Canon 30D 7D
Lens Canon 100 f2.8, 400L is f/4 Sigma 70-200 pro os
iPhone bird call application ?
Darren
Gear : Nikon Goodness
Website : http://www.peakactionimages.com
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Constructive Critique of my images always appreciated
No. That is cheating. It turns you into a tourist with a big camera instead of a naturalist who takes pictures. I wouldn't say never use recorded calls, but almost never is a good rule. You might as well just take shots in a zoo somewhere and pretend that they were in the wild (saves learning your trade), or easier yet flog some pictures off someone's Fickr account and fudge the EXIF (saves going outside and getting cold).
Firstly, you need a FLL and the longer the better!
Secondly, as Sar says, learn your subject matter.
Thirdly, be patient.
Fourthly, learn FLL technique.
My PBase site: http://www.pbase.com/lance_b
My Flickr site: https://www.flickr.com/photos/35949907@N02/
I'd say the first "L" stands for "long" and the second "L" stands for "lens". I asked my mother what the "F" stood for but she wouldn't say.
It clearly stands for fairly. You need a fairly long lens for birding.
That's strange, I thought the F stood for Flash and the L stands for length, the other L lost me
lol, you even had me resorting to a google search on acronyms
^ A GSA?
It's a TLA yes
Lance offered something of real value
"Learn your subject matter" and "be patient".
I'll add be observant.
Being patient means it might take years to get the photo you're after of a given bird. Maybe never But be patient, stick to it and you will be rewarded.
Research and read up on the bird your targeting. Learn it's characteristics.
Does it have a habit of perching on certain bushes or islands in a pond. If it does get in position while the bird is somewhere else and wait.
Does it have a "run". i.e. Does the bird move through it's territory in habituated manor. Positioning yourself somewhere along the bird's path might reward you with numerous opportunities to photograph the bird.
Chris
Very good advice Chris, as I find birds so predictable. If you keep going back, you can almost anticipate what they are going to do next.
here are my first shots with the new 100-400, during lunch today.
please tell me what you think.
thanks kipp
IMG_1994.jpgIMG_1972.jpgIMG_1946.jpgIMG_2021.jpgIMG_2036.jpg
i have not edited them only croped and resized to fit the upload.
they were shot handheld (probably why they aren't that sharp?)
It'll probably take a little while to get used to the 7D/100-400 combo - I use the same setup and find that if I'm handholding I need to keep the shutter speed at least equal to the focal length, preferably faster. Also, if you haven't already done it, for birding it's best to set the 7D to use just the centre focus point then it will be easier to get the focus lock where you want it - on the bird's eye.
If no-one has pointed it out already, there is a great resource in the Library section full of information on gear and the technical aspects of birding, plus lots more!
Michaela
Comments and critique always welcome and appreciated.
My photos on Flickr
Canon 5D Mk III | 7D | Assorted Canon Lenses