"Flash" photography. Pros and cons.

[Mr Felix]

And at the risk of making myself look more stupid than I am,

What is "SS"?....

Ah, just worked it out. Shutter speed - right?


Just: Until I get more fluent with the terms, sometimes I can't resolve the acronyms and it only confusees me more rather than helping me.

[Scotty72]

Yep, SS = shutter speed

[Dan Cripps]

on camera flash is never flattering.

Any flash used well can be flattering.

[pollen]

At a guess, your flash exposure was set too high, and on camera flash is never flattering. Waiting for the images for final feedback though.

Disagree with this, all on camera flash:







I use a different technique to what is described by the posters above. The shutter speeds of the above range from 1/30 to 1/200, which leads to a very important point. For flash photography, it is NOT your shutter speed that determines the degree of motion blur (either subject or camera blur).

Rather, it is the ratio of the flash exposure to the ambient exposure. If your flash exposure dominates the exposure, you can handhold a photo even at 30 seconds or something. If your ambient exposure dominates, then flash will do nothing to "freeze" motion, it will come down to how well your handhold and whether your subject is moving.

I use AV mode when using on camera flash. Most photographers use manual. To be honest it doesn't matter, as long as you are aware that it is a balancing act between the flash and the ambient exposure

[Mr Felix]

Pollen,

Interesting point you make there.

Looking back at some of my pictures with the flash and having the camera in AV mode, I was wondering why they looked as bad as they do.

Now I realise that although I told the camera to use the flash, the shutter speed wasn't set to 1/60.
I don't know if that is me making the mistake of there is a "bug" with the camera.

(I'll go for the former)

I guess there is advantages of the camera NOT going to 1/60 when using the flash, as you can do tricks with the exexposure as you kind of mentioned - mixing the ambient light with the flash's.

But there again, if you are going to do that kind of stuff why oh why wouldn't you simply be in MANUAL mode?

[kiwi]

I dint think you are understanding. It's not a magic set to 1/60s and you'll be right, it's understanding and measuring the ambient light and then balancing this with flash by using your camera and flash settings....you need to practice this and understand what happens when you change settings

[Allann]

Disagree with this, all on camera flash:

I have to agree, not ALL on camera flash is horrible. I may have generalised a little too much. But I was more directing my comment to the OP who is obviously having issues understanding the basics, and throwing in balancing acts between ambient and flash would not have helped. Mind you there is also a huge difference between a 5D2 using an 85 1.2 and external flash and a 550D using on board flash a probably a kit lens. I am also assuming you bounced the flash in the shots above, and didn't use direct "in your face" on board flash. I am not saying that an experienced photographer couldn't get good results with that setup, I'm just saying it's a little more difficult.

Flash photography is by no stretch an easy task, the modern flashes make it easier but still usually involves a balancing act and adjustments that usually only occur with a lot of practice and understanding.

[DAdeGroot]

I shall look at the menus and see if I can find/understand the flash menu option/s.

If you have the camera settings on the rear screen (400D defaulted to that, so I'm guessing the 550D does too), look for a b&w square diagonally separated, one side black with a with a white plus, the other white with a black minus, and on the left side, a lightning bolt. That's the flash exposure compensation setting. Dial that down to suit your surroundings.

Also check your custom functions (in the menus) and verify the setting for Flash Sync in Av mode. Choices are usually: * 1/200 fixed * 1/60th - 1/200th * Auto
Choose as appropriate to your conditions.

[Mr Felix]

Thanks guys.

Shall check the settings when I get home. I don't know if they are the default or not. If they are, I'm a bit perplexed to how they got changed. But I guess I may have changed them by mistake when initially looking at the menu options.

[Scotty72]

From the egs given by the OP, ambient light is going to be factored in: they either contain background features that a flash won't properly light evenly with the foreground (barring a complicated set up) or the required depth of field along the subject make even lighting very hard. Using a flash to freeze a subject wouldn't really work in the OPs pics as the setup to get even lighting would be overly complicated.

Freeze with flash only really works (generalizing) when the subjects are at a simmilar distance and where you are not worried about the background. A perfect eg might be a dancer moving across a black curtain. Or else, when the subject is close enough to the flash that the flash is the dominate lighting source (without washing it out) and the background is far enough that the flash has little affect but with exposure settings that allow the ambient light in. This, is the difficult thing to master. (doing this for one subject that covers a huge DOF is kind of hard)

So, if you want a shot like the OPs that is lit evenly, you need a reasonably slow shutter speed along with a soft flash burst.

Scotty

[elyshiamadison]

Mr Felix
I have the same camera
To reduce the strength of the flash output - press your Q button on the back of the camera, that will allow you to change your available settings. The one you want is FE (Flash exposure comp.) its in the second row of options.

To allow your camera to use shutter speeds lower than 1/200, you'll need to press MENU, then find the custom function screen (an orange tab with a spanner/shifter - it's actually the 7th from left) the first custom function setting is Flash sync speed in Av mode - and change that to number 1 (1/200 - 1/60)

Hope this helps!

[bindiblue]

That would be my guess too. The tendency is to set the flash to vapourize; thus, flooding the subject with light and eliminating the natural balance of light.

What you want to practise doing is setting the flash to the minimum needed to fill the shadowy areas (having as little effect on the lit areas as possible). You need to learn to deal with the slowest shutter speed you can. If its a party for eg, maybe 1/60 (it will vary). If the flash is set low enough to just fill the shadows and to still allow the ambient light to be seen, that is double plus good.

Hope this helps.

Scotty

Thanks Scotty for that info,,, I will also be trying using my flash in the way you explained,

[selaw]

A late post but I wanted to say what a great lot of info I have just read here. I am thinking of buying a good quality flash and will google a bunch of reviews right now

[Blueywa]

Not sure if I am getting this right, but isn't the Op using the camera's popup flash?

I'm not saying anything against them, but I dont use mine at all - I prefer to use my Nikon with either an 'on' camera speedlight or one attached via cable (SC-28 or 29).

White balance, ISO, etc are all important facters and I hope you continue to enjoy the learning curve...