1 "decent" lens for my first body

[Roosta]

Lens Speed (Fast Glass) = Depending on the build of the lens, Its maximum aperture setting will determine the amount of light that can enter your camera at any one time. Laymans terms, Usaly the lower numbered Fstop of the lens I.E 100mm F2.8 will be faster than a 100mm F4 and so on 100mm F5.6 (prime lens) Fixed focal length. Or in the case of a Zoom lens, a 18-50mmF2.8 will let more light in across the Stopping range of the camera than a 18-50mm F4-5.6. It's better for a all round lens. So with the seting sun and changing focal lenghts, the camera Fstop may alter for DOF, but the Fstop, apperture or amount of light capible of entering will be the same and also higher with a F2.8 against say F4-5.6.

Aperture on the lens is the blading system that opens or resricits the light entering your cameras sensor. Think the opening of James bond movie, when he turns to shoot, you see that circular blading, like looking through a camera lens, Lower is higher and vise wersa.

This is tricky if you want to take dedicated low light landscape with longer/slower shutter speeds, not always needed on say a 10-22mm lens (UWA Ultra wide angle, for great landscape and building sceens). But for a general walk about general use lens, you are better of getting quality glass (build quality and lower Fstop numbering I.E F2.8) ISO and Shutter duration, and so on, all come into play. Fixed aperture across complete focal lenght is best say 18-50mm @ F2.8 Lens in Aperture Priority mode on the camera, the body will do the rest.

Firstly work out your main photographic needs around what body do what you want.
?. Main intended use (is it for speed or portriature shooting)
?. FPS Frames per second
?. Video requirements if needed
?. Full Frame or Not (this will alter your lens thinking quite a lot)
?. weather sealing (will haevily way on price)

Then work on lenses, usally you could get away with 2, say something around but not restricted to 15/17/18MInumum - 50/55/70/75/80Maximum Focal Zoom odd (several Canon and Non Canon lens here, and say the 70-200mm L F2.8 or lighter but just as sharp if not sharper 70-200mm L F4.

Would be better of there rather then looking at a prime lens. Fixed focal lens (I.E 150mm F2.8) In other words, you need to move closed or further away from subject to chage focal range. But very good optics in most case's in prime lens.

Have Fun...

[Roosta]

Try this website and look under reviews for camera bodies and also a range of lens Canon and Sigma... Very useful information here...

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/

[silkdiver]

Finally, I made up my mind. Tomorrow I will be picking up a 50D ! It's got a couple of lenses, a camera bag, battery grip with 2 batteries & a third party flash. The 50D has 9000 actuations so I will be ready to play. I already have the nifty fifty. The only down side is the learning curve of DSLR

[PH005]

I wouldn't look at it as a " Downside ". I would look at it as a great new learning adventure.

[silkdiver]

PH005, you know I said it tongue in cheek, because I know all you guys n girls in here will help me out when I need it, which will probably be a lot . The beginners section has some awesome help & get started areas which I have been reading.
I just have to figure out what I am going to tell hubby as buying the camera means my car has to stay off the road a bit longer, lucky it's warmer weather now as it looks like I am stuck on my bike for a while, just that pesky rain that starts every time I have to go to work lately

[Arg]

I... am also trying to decide on a new lens. I have the Canon 350D (will upgrade to a 5D in the next few mths) and the two kit lenses that came with it. 18 - 55 and 75 - 300mm. … they not really very good quality. …my pics look a bit soft and never tack sharp as they say. …. why buy a 50mm lens (set focal length) instead of say a 15 - 85mm which includes the 50mm length? And what do you mean when you say a lens is slow? I am a tour guide and take a lot of landscape photos (especially sunsets etc) but also animals etc. …I was going to get the 24 - 105 lens but there seems to be a lot of recommendation of the 15 - 85mm. ….Any help and advice would be much appreciated.

Hi, if you are going to get the 5D then note that any EF-S lens cannot be used.
Like the 15-85 you are considering.

Zoom lenses are generally more distorted than a fixed focal length like a 50mm, and are 'slower' i.e. let less light in because the aperture cannot open up so wide inside the lens. Some zoom lenses are just as 'fast' and undistorted, but heavy and expensive. It's a trade-off.

I am very surprised you cannot get ‘tack sharp’ pictures with a 350D and kit lenses. I suspect there may be something about your settings and use of your kit that contributes, not just the kit alone. Is that something you want to discuss?

If you are definitely getting the 5D then the 24-105 is a great choice for landscapes, and not-too-shy/small animals.

But if you like shy/small animals then the 550D/60D/7D cameras with smaller sensors offer an advantage in telephoto effect.

Decide the body first then we’ll talk lenses.

[OzOutbackGirl]

HI Arg, Thanks for your input to my question. I didn't realise that what genre I take with regards to photos should be the deciding factor about what camera model to get. I had decided on the 5D coz I figured it was the best Canon Camera I could afford and coz it's a full sensor I figured it would be that one step better than the 7D? I know the 7D is quite a bit more robust but I didn't realise that it would be better for taking small/shy animals than the 5D. Why is that? Maybe I should do some further investigating? I have had my Canon 350D for nearly 4 yrs now and have taken nearly 15,000 photos so maybe it needs a service (just like cars) :-) :-) It is playing up a bit sometimes and has a mind of it's own.

About the 'tack sharp' images.....Since I wrote this post I have taken photos at my sisters farm and downloaded onto her computer and am amazed that the pics are much better on her monitor. I think it has something to do with my laptop settings coz the colours are very vivid and bright and sharp on her monitor. Or it might be that i am taking better photos since studying a lot :-) Think it's the screen though now. I do really think my Sigma lens loses quality after 200mm though! Do you think this is normal?

If I get the 5D I have decided to get the 24 - 105 lens.

Arg, can you explain about the smaller sensor cameras offering an advantage with regards to telephoto effects? Thanks in advance

[Cadnium]

OzOutbackGirl,

To put it very simply the smaller sensors provide a pseudo-zoom effect as the image coming in from the lens has a smaller area to hit. You often hear people talking about them as a crop factor - a 50D has a 'crop factor' of 1.6. This means that for the same lens and zoom, it will be effectively 1.6x more zoomed in.

To put it in context: A 50mm zoom on a 50D is equivalent to 50x1.6 = 80mm on a 5D.

[Arg]

Hi OOG,

if you take your 70-300 lens off your 350 and put it on a 5 you will suddenly notice a 60% loss of telephoto effect. This can be tough to live with (and heavy and expensive to solve ).

Yes it is normal for a 70-300 lens to be softer above 200mm when wide open, although some expensive models $2000+ can solve it.

Take a good hard look at the 550D. It might be the perfect fit for your hands (more important than gear-obsessed people seem to think in their race to obsess on sensors). Canon has made big progress since the 350D in every way. Some reviewers are saying the 550D could satisfy some pros depending on their needs.

On the question of sensor size, there are plenty of pros using the smaller sensor size, and it is not because they are compromising on standards for their clients! It is because these cameras can satisfy pro standards nowadays. Don't dismiss them; think about your real needs. It is quite realistic to argue that for a given limited budget that a 28mm sensor body and lens kit (550/60/7D) can deliver better photos than a full frame sensor and lenses to fit the same budget.

The learning centre is a great resource and might be useful to you (as it is to me)

[OzOutbackGirl]

HI Arg,

Thanks again for all that info. Wow! I had no idea that I am compromising things to get the 5D. I need the zoom! Especially when on tour and I take animals at a distance etc. I will take a look at the 550D. God, you may have saved me money :-) Will check out the learning centre too. Thanks heaps for your help. I have learnt so much from this forum...it's fantastic & I feel like part of a big family of like minded people.

[OzOutbackGirl]

Thanks Cadium for your input too. I understand now.

[Arg]

...About the 'tack sharp' images..... I think it has something to do with my laptop settings

Hi OzOutbackGirl, since you have decided to keep your 350D for the moment, maybe you could spend a penny on your monitor, especially if you are using your laptop screen. Most laptop screens require very careful alignment with the viewer's eyes to get a decent look at the photos, and even then are not good enough to show the colours and dynamics of the photo. Quick suggestions: for $300 maybe the AOC iF23, for $600 maybe the Dell U2410.

Ok, I don't know how advanced you are as a camera user, so please don't get upset if my next tip is too basic! Are you using your 350D on its standard 'multizone' focus mode? This mode causes far too many mis-focused photos. Quick suggestion: change your camera's settings to always focus using the centre focusing point. Then focus by putting this point on the bit of the subject that you want sharpest, press shutter half way, recompose, and shoot.

[TOM]

Aperture on the lens is the blading system that opens or resricits the light entering your cameras sensor. Think the opening of James bond movie, when he turns to shoot, you see that circular blading, like looking through a camera lens, Lower is higher and vise wersa.

the aperture is the hole, the "blading system" is called the diagphram.

congrats on the 50mm lens. it is the best way to get champagne quality on a beer budget as you say.

[OzOutbackGirl]

Hi Arg, sorry, I just realised this note from you was here. I really would love to get a new monitor. I would LOVE to get a new monitor so will investigate those options you suggest. What about an Apple Mac? Are they much much better? My bro works in an industry where he could get me one for a reasonable price.

About the focus....I do have it on the spot focus (one shot). Don't worry...I am not offended at all. I never use the other two focusing functions but I do understand the AI servo is for continual focussing on moving animals.

I was also always using spot metering for all my photos and have since learnt that I should be using the evaluative metering for most photos. This also might explain the lack of colour quality etc I have been experiencing.

Thanks again for your help. I will investigate those monitors you suggest.

[Arg]

Hi OzOutbackGirl, I'm not sure which Mac you mean, but it doesn't matter much as I am not familiar with them. Mac displays use good technology but for photo purposes are cursed by a glossy screen. Looks great in the showroom but the reflections are going to be a nuisance if you look closely at static images for colour and shadow detail, like photographers tend to do. A real pity.

[JohnnyBoy]

I'm also in the same spot as the OP changing my mind a 1000 times if only someone gave me a dollar everything I did I would be able to get my body by now :-), but I am now looking at the 60d - had a feel of the 550d, 60d and 7d in the shop and I like the feel of the 60d but the buttons are a bit of a let down as there is no feedback coming from the push. But regarding glass and someone that is just starting out I was look at the Canon 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 USM Image Stabilizer Lens.
What I'm looking at is an all rounder as I currently work in the US and on the weekends I like to go and see places etc. Some things I have put on hold until after I get the camera. I have many ideas in my head and getting them onto paper so to speak well that will be an interesting exercise.

[silkdiver]

I'm also in the same spot as the OP changing my mind a 1000 times if only someone gave me a dollar everything I did I would be able to get my body by now :-), but I am now looking at the 60d - had a feel of the 550d, 60d and 7d in the shop and I like the feel of the 60d but the buttons are a bit of a let down as there is no feedback coming from the push. But regarding glass and someone that is just starting out I was look at the Canon 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 USM Image Stabilizer Lens.
What I'm looking at is an all rounder as I currently work in the US and on the weekends I like to go and see places etc. Some things I have put on hold until after I get the camera. I have many ideas in my head and getting them onto paper so to speak well that will be an interesting exercise.

I settled on the 50D, but if I hadn't been able to get one, I would have gone 60D. The 28-135mm would be a nice alrounder IMHO. I ended up with the Canon 17-85mm as I was after WA, yours would be a bit faster

Good luck in your decisions.

[pfb]

EF-S 18-200 for a general walk around lens.

+1

Works well for me, and I'm hoping to get hold of a 10-22mm soon for the wider angle, particularly for landscapes.

[kjeems]

I just purchased the 60D and 50mm f1.8 but planning on getting the 15-85mm when the price is right

I guess the main reason i liked the 60D over the 550D was the fact of the swivel screen.. very useful when doing some group shots that i want to be in aswell... The worst thing about taking photos is that a few years later when you look back at them, you'll notice that your eerily absent from most of them

[Arg]

The 28-135 will give you no wide angle, which I would miss.

If I was going to have just one lens on a 60D it would be the 15-85, especially for travel.