Strobe beginners question

[kiwi]

What you need to do is modify and soften the direct light, bouncing it's one way

As I said earlier, start with one light, get a cheapy studio stand, speedlight braxket and a shoot through umbrella

I think youll be amazed by how many great studio togs just use ONE light

[hus]

As I said earlier, start with one light

I know but I got carried away with the thrill of having the remote triggers and wanted to see them work without thinking too much about taking proper pictures.
Sometimes the child in me comes out

[kiwi]

thats cool, id do the same

[maccaroneski]

Subject to the advice above regarding modifiers, you certainly look to have nailed the exposure which seems to be the object of the exercise.

[hus]

you certainly look to have nailed the exposure which seems to be the object of the exercise.

The main concern was to get use to using histogram for working out the exposure, thanks for the thumbs up on that but l never took into account the hard shadows direct lighting can cause.
But then again I would never have learnt about both topics if l hadn't posted in the first place, I really appreciate all comments and suggestions it all helps with the earning curve

[hus]

Back again now after taking on board your advice, this is most I could soften the lighting and the shots were taken in manual.
Does it look fine or am I still missing something here ?

[Scotty72]

Obviously, much better but, it still looks kinda harsh.

Have you tried pointing the flash almost directly away from the subject and at about 45 degrees up (experiment), this should let the light reverb around the room and not come from any particular direction (shadow)

Scotty

[hus]

No l haven't pointed the lights away from the subject will be my next move, will post results thanks

[eliemarga]

Hi, just a suggestion I might be wrong here since I'm also learning, but wouldn't it be great if you try to imagine what kind of image do you want then start building your light from there.

just a hint:
move away the light source to the subject then you get more contrast and increase the dimension and vice versa.

[vk2gwk]

Just reviving an older thread.... Wonder how you got on in the mean time, Hus?
Got myself the same sort of triggers and am using them now with two umbrella's. Pointing high, low, behind the subject.

I do not have a light meter but have the computer (laptop) tethered to the camera and shoot "remote" so that I can see the shot straight away on a reasonably good display with the histogram next to it. That is a great help.

[MarkChap]

Ok, seems I missed this to start with.

A very simple formula to get yourself in the ball park to start with

Aperture = Guide Number(of your flash) divided by Distance(flash to subject)
Example - Cheap Ebay type flash - YN-460 has a guide number of 28(sold as 33 but from all reports it is 28)
Distance to subject - 5 mt

Aperture = 28(our guide number) divided by 5 (our flash distance to our subject)
Aperture = 5.6

You can now fine tune your flash output, distance or aperture to get the exact exposure you want, but you are close to start with.

[hus]

Just reviving an older thread.... Wonder how you got on in the mean time, Hus?
Got myself the same sort of triggers and am using them now with two umbrella's. Pointing high, low, behind the subject.

I do not have a light meter but have the computer (laptop) tethered to the camera and shoot "remote" so that I can see the shot straight away on a reasonably good display with the histogram next to it. That is a great help.

Sorry for not getting back with this light topic I got drawn away to another problem I still trying to solve, as for a light meter I find the camera histogram really useful and does the job, I do a few shots at the start to fine tune then take it from there. My next step is to do a indoor sports event. Hope I dont mess that up but will post results once I get the chance to do the event.

[hus]

Ok, seems I missed this to start with.

A very simple formula to get yourself in the ball park to start with

Aperture = Guide Number(of your flash) divided by Distance(flash to subject)
Example - Cheap Ebay type flash - YN-460 has a guide number of 28(sold as 33 but from all reports it is 28)
Distance to subject - 5 mt

Aperture = 28(our guide number) divided by 5 (our flash distance to our subject)
Aperture = 5.6

You can now fine tune your flash output, distance or aperture to get the exact exposure you want, but you are close to start with.

currently my flashes are a canon 380ex and a sigma 430st.
I really have to work on bouncing the lighting to soften the image more.

[TriggerHappy2010]

I have been toying with the idea of being a strobist and have been doing a bit of research before investing my hard earned cash. If I may offer some advice: Youtube is brilliant for the beginner strobist. I am a particular fan of www.lightenupandshoot.com and 'mikeyorange' is their user name on Youtube and they have proved to be a great source of information, not to mention Mikey and Andy are pretty funny too. Even if you are not into being a strobist, you should check out their work and what they are doing, quite inspirational.

Anyhow, check out Youtube, you wont regret it.


Regards,


Trigger

[hus]

Will do, all info is good info