User Tag List

Thanks useful information Thanks useful information:  0
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 23 of 23

Thread: Help E3 Noise

  1. #21
    Member
    Threadstarter

    Join Date
    15 Apr 2009
    Location
    Caboolture, Qld
    Posts
    69
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    We've had some success and i thought i'd pass on the findings

    With the help from Invictus, we've discovered the Gradation needs to be turned to "normal",
    this has made a massive difference to the shots.

    And for the "whirring" noise, that was the stabilisation fighting the tripod, once turned off no more (audible) noise

    Pep

  2. #22
    Member
    Join Date
    03 Mar 2009
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    284
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    That's great news! I knew Olympus couldnt be that noisy at it's best lol.
    Olympus bodies: E330 & the E3. Lenses: Zuiko 12-60mm, 50-200mm. Sigma 105mm. Extras: EX25, FL36R, FL50R and a few odds and ends

    "A stranger is just a friend you don't know yet!" ~ Billy Connelly

  3. #23
    Member
    Join Date
    19 May 2010
    Location
    Blue Mountains
    Posts
    394
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Peppe View Post
    We've had some success and i thought i'd pass on the findings

    With the help from Invictus, we've discovered the Gradation needs to be turned to "normal",
    this has made a massive difference to the shots.

    And for the "whirring" noise, that was the stabilisation fighting the tripod, once turned off no more (audible) noise

    Pep

    Good'ay,
    Another thing to remember is not to leave continuous shutter on (use single shutter) for long exposures as that will cancel the noise reduction process which is a closed shutter exposure equal the shutter time used & subtracted from the original exposure canceling out any hot pixel noise.

    Auto gradation (auto shadow control) is a trap for the unwary, but if taken in RAW can be deselected in Olympus Viewer 2 (or Master & Studio) RAW developer. I prefer to use JPEG SF + RAW as memory cards are getting cheaper, bigger & faster then you always have a RAW back up for any necessary editing & JPEG's for those you want to keep as is.

    A good habit to get into with IS is to leave it off by default & only turn it on when needed as it will give you less sharp shots when on a tripod.

    I also recommend reading all the E3 related articles by by J. Andrzej Wrotniak in his Photo tidbits, The Olympus E-System site.
    http://www.wrotniak.net/photo/43/index.html

    You will probably want to copy them into a word doc (or several) & print them off for some bed time reading, because there is a lot to read there.

    Ross
    Ross
    I fiddle with violins (when I'm not fiddling with a camera).
    Cameras: OM-D E-M1 & Mk II, Olympus Stylus 1, OM-D E-M5.
    Lenses: M.ZD7-14mm f2.8 PRO Lens, M.ZD12-40mm f2.8 PRO Lens, M.ZD40-150mm f2.8 PRO Lens with MC-14, MC-20, M.ZD45mm f1.8, M.ZD12-50, M.ZD60 Macro, M.ZD75-300 Mk II, MMF-3, ZD14-54 II, Sigma 150mm F2.8 APO Macro DG HSM.
    Flashes: FL36R X2, FL50R, FL50.
    Software: Capture One Pro 12 (& Olympus Workspace).

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •