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Thread: What kind of light globe should I have in my study?

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    What kind of light globe should I have in my study?

    Just wondering if the type of globe you have impacts the final result seen on the screen.

    My monitor is calibrated with a spyder2. I do a bit of PP in the morning with natural light, but most often at night under a compact flourescent bulb. Is there something else I should be using? Is there a "daylight" globe I can put in the ceiling like the ones that are used in studio lighting?
    Sam.
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    Nobody?

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    Moderately Underexposed I @ M's Avatar
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    I was asking myself the same question a while ago and the printers we use recommend that ---- " LIGHTING: The room should be lit with Phillips TLD 95 fluoro tubes for colour correcting." ----- but when I looked those types of tubes up it seems that they come in a variety of colour temperatures ( degrees Kelvin ) ranging from 3000 degrees warm white to 6500 degrees cool daylight with 5300 degrees daylight in the middle.

    I am going to look into it further but will probably end up with the 5300 degree ones to start with.
    Andrew
    Nikon, Fuji, Nikkor, Sigma, Tamron, Tokina and too many other bits and pieces to list.



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    Administrator ricktas's Avatar
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    Your eyes adjust to counter the differences in temperature of light. Take fluorescent lights, we see them often as a clean light or slight blue tinge, yet they emit a green cast.

    As long as you calibrate your monitor for the conditions that exist in your room you should be fine. I am not sure if the Spyder 2 can do an ambient light check (the spyder 3 checks the light in the room during calibration) and that can be worthwhile to ensure an optimum result.
    "It is one thing to make a picture of what a person looks like, it is another thing to make a portrait of who they are" - Paul Caponigro

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    So Rick basically are you saying I'd have to recalibrate every time if I work both daylight or under lights? Bit of a PIA that

    Wondering if there is a way to save 2 spyder profiles on my iMac and switch between them as needed...

    Andrew I might sus that globe thing out too.

    Thanks guys!

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    In the morning, close the curtains and turn the light on - problem solved!

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    I use a 6500k daylight fluoro and leave the blinds half open, providing indirect sunlight. Seems to work okay. I had a lower temp fluoro before and it wasn't as nice to work with (looked yellowish in the day but okay at night).

    Regards,
    Calx
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    I have an iMac 27in that needs to be calibrated and am looking at a Spyder but that will come later. Yes you can set and later select several different colour profiles on the mac.
    I use a Coolwhite compact flouro in a slightly frosted shade and have found thats the best colour for me.
    Speaking to a processor he advised me that the monitor needs to be frequently calibrated to remain true. He was saying that length of time monitor is on, style of images eg: outdoor/Studio/action can also make an effect. His monitors are calibrated about every half hour.
    Peter.

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    I use Philips Ambience Cool Daylight globes (6500K) which appear to give a nice even light without the yellowy tinge of the Warm White ones. I also tend to keep the blinds closed (or mostly so), but more because of the heat factor rather than the light from outside.
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    Member kingarthur's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raven View Post
    So Rick basically are you saying I'd have to recalibrate every time if I work both daylight or under lights? Bit of a PIA that

    Wondering if there is a way to save 2 spyder profiles on my iMac and switch between them as needed...

    Andrew I might sus that globe thing out too.

    Thanks guys!
    no need to recalibrate, just have a differant profile for each lighting condition.

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    The ISO 12646 and it's predecessor ISO 3664 norms say:
    - Colour temperature 5000K, colour reproduction index 90 or higher
    - 32 to 64 Lux (check using an external lightmeter: 100 ISO, 1 second, aperture = 4 - 5.6)
    Thus, no ambient light should enter the room and it's a pretty dark environment.

    For checking prints, much more light is required (1500 to 2500 lux).

    It's not just the light itself, it's the fitting that needs to be okay too - some change the light colour.

    There are pretty good Solux halogen lights with integrated blue-filter that a specified to generate 4700K (pretty close!), check out solux.net.
    True-Lite, Philips and Just also provide TL and PL lights (tubes usually) that are pretty good.
    Ciao, Joost

    All feedback is highly appreciated!

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    I was told by a Pro. Printer to get a D5 Fluro.
    Carmen

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