User Tag List

Thanks useful information Thanks useful information:  2
Results 1 to 11 of 11

Thread: Another Calibration Puzzle

  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    07 Oct 2006
    Location
    Sth Adelaide
    Posts
    492
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Another Calibration Puzzle

    Was just about to buy a Spyder 3 Pro calibration set up, but now I'm not sure I should, the more I google on the subject the more confused I become

    Cant seem to find the relevant details of my monitor to set up a Spyder 3 properly, all I have found so far is........

    ASUS VW 222U monitor
    2ms response
    Flat Panel LCD/TFT
    22 inch
    2000:1 contrast ratio
    max resolution = 1680 x 1050
    brightness 300CD/M2 { whatever the hell this means ? }
    Backlit I think ?

    Been googling for a while and have found no more info on my monitor than that. Also been searching for comments regarding using the Spyder 3 pro on various monitors and found a couple of comments basically stating that as a general rule Spyder 3 Pro calibration is quite good, but apparently on any monitor valued at under around $800.00 is not going to work well. My ASUS I think always looks dam good, colours always look very natural, comments on forums I post to indicate that, but seems maybe it's a waste of time buying a good calibration tool for this monitor as it doesn't rate in the high price bracket.

    buggered if I know .....any thoughts ?

  2. #2
    can't remember Tannin's Avatar
    Join Date
    16 Apr 2007
    Location
    Ballarat
    Posts
    2,895
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Strikes me that your monitor (like almost all cheap ones) is way too blue. This would explain why, as a general rule, your posted photographs tend to be too yellow.

    You won't get good colour accuracy from a TN Film monitor, especially off-axis, but you can get a very significant improvement by running the Spyder over it.

    Indeed, calibration is more important with cheap screens than it is with good ones. For example, I just bought a new Spyder 3 Elite because I've lost my damn Spyder II, which would have done fine, and calibrated my two big photographic-grade Samsungs, Belinda's photographic-grade Dell, and my non-photographic grade laptop screen. The Samsungs and the Dell changed barely at all - because, being fine monitors, they were pretty accurate in the first place - but the laptop screen, a cheapish TN Film panel very like the one in your Asus, has changed a great deal, and very much for the better. i now regard my laptop as usable for revire and post-processing, where it was unusable before calibration.

    Short answer: do it. It is absolutely worth it.

  3. #3
    It's all about the Light!
    Tech Admin
    Kym's Avatar
    Join Date
    15 Jun 2008
    Location
    Modbury, Adelaide
    Posts
    9,641
    Mentioned
    18 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Colin - borrow my Huey Pro and try that for a couple of weeks.

    ANY proper calibration is better than none.
    At least you can see the difference and it can be turned on/off is a couple of mouse clicks.
    Take 60 seconds to install and a couple of minutes to calibrate.

    If you get a Spyder the Huey software uninstalls cleanly.

  4. #4
    Administrator ricktas's Avatar
    Join Date
    24 Jun 2007
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    15,643
    Mentioned
    10 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    it will work and it will work well. The issue with cheaper monitors is they are 'unstable'. The same colour can vary across the screen due to brightness, colour rendition issues. So the exact same colour could look brighter on the left of the screen than the right. This is just purely related to cheapness and quality.

    But, a spyder 3 will improve it generally, compared to a non calibrated screen. The trick is to re-calibrate regularly, to counteract any changes in the screen.
    "It is one thing to make a picture of what a person looks like, it is another thing to make a portrait of who they are" - Paul Caponigro

    Constructive Critique of my photographs is always appreciated
    Nikon, etc!

    RICK
    My Photography

  5. #5
    can't remember Tannin's Avatar
    Join Date
    16 Apr 2007
    Location
    Ballarat
    Posts
    2,895
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Take Kym up on his offer for sure.

  6. #6
    Ausphotography Regular gcflora's Avatar
    Join Date
    03 Dec 2009
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    1,745
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Kym View Post
    Colin - borrow my Huey Pro and try that for a couple of weeks.

    ANY proper calibration is better than none.
    At least you can see the difference and it can be turned on/off is a couple of mouse clicks.
    Take 60 seconds to install and a couple of minutes to calibrate.

    If you get a Spyder the Huey software uninstalls cleanly.
    Wow. Gotta admire the support people give others on this forum!

  7. #7
    Member
    Threadstarter

    Join Date
    07 Oct 2006
    Location
    Sth Adelaide
    Posts
    492
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Ok.....I think I'll just buy the Spyder 3 pro and experiment, only one way to work it out and that's just do it.

  8. #8
    Member
    Threadstarter

    Join Date
    07 Oct 2006
    Location
    Sth Adelaide
    Posts
    492
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Tannin View Post
    Strikes me that your monitor (like almost all cheap ones) is way too blue. This would explain why, as a general rule, your posted photographs tend to be too yellow.

    You won't get good colour accuracy from a TN Film monitor, especially off-axis, but you can get a very significant improvement by running the Spyder over it.

    Indeed, calibration is more important with cheap screens than it is with good ones. For example, I just bought a new Spyder 3 Elite because I've lost my damn Spyder II, which would have done fine, and calibrated my two big photographic-grade Samsungs, Belinda's photographic-grade Dell, and my non-photographic grade laptop screen. The Samsungs and the Dell changed barely at all - because, being fine monitors, they were pretty accurate in the first place - but the laptop screen, a cheapish TN Film panel very like the one in your Asus, has changed a great deal, and very much for the better. i now regard my laptop as usable for revire and post-processing, where it was unusable before calibration.

    Short answer: do it. It is absolutely worth it.

    No one ever told me my images were too yellow....why wasn't I told ?.DOHHHHHHHHHHHH !!!!

  9. #9
    Member Calxoddity's Avatar
    Join Date
    24 Apr 2008
    Location
    Wollongong
    Posts
    473
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    we just thought you liked yellow...
    Calxoddity
    Concert Pianist, Test Pilot, Pathological Liar


    Nikon D40, Sigma 17-70 F2.8-4.5 HSM, Nikkor AF-D 50mm f1.8
    Post Processing: Aperture 3 & Photoshop Elements 6

  10. #10
    Member
    Join Date
    29 Nov 2008
    Location
    River Murray
    Posts
    727
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    they say that you should calibrate every week or month (i can't remember), but i don't do it. does anybody? you can hire a sypder from Total Photographics. unless you are doing critical commercial work, i don't think that the shift every six months is going to be enough to be concerned about. hiring the sypder for TP would certainly be viable option. at least you could try it a couple of times.

  11. #11
    Member
    Join Date
    28 Aug 2008
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    1,913
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by TOM View Post
    they say that you should calibrate every week or month (i can't remember), but i don't do it. does anybody? you can hire a sypder from Total Photographics. unless you are doing critical commercial work, i don't think that the shift every six months is going to be enough to be concerned about. hiring the sypder for TP would certainly be viable option. at least you could try it a couple of times.

    if your monitor is constantly being shifted around the studio or office or swiveled, then you should calibrate every 2 weeks

    if the monitor remains static and never moved then every 3 months is fine

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •