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Thread: Zeiss Camera

  1. #21
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    Hi one other thing

    The timer on the shutter doesn't work any more, it ticks a few times and stops, and you have to push the lever on manually.

    Does anyone have any suggestions for something to clean/lubricate the timer arm (it is the one with the red dot on it). I don't want to get anything near the shutter mechanism.
    David

    Nikon D810
    Nikkor AF-S 24-120VR, Nikkor AF-S 16-35VR, Nikkor AF-S 70-300VR, Nikkor AF 50 f1.8
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  2. #22
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    Great news on the processing / scanning part - sounds easy now!

    As for the ruby window - you are correct, after loading and closing the back, watch through the ruby window and wind SLOWLY and you'll see a small circle, then a couple of bigger circles then a circle with a number "1" in it. STOP there as the number indicates the first frame. Once you've exposed, just wind again until number "2" shows up in the circle. Don't overwind because you can't wind back. Once you've reached the last frame, no more numbers will show up so then just keep winding until you feel the backing paper leave the feed spool and then wind some more to ensure it's all on the takeup spool. Then open the camera back, remove the takeup spool carefully and immediately lick/stick the tab to TIGHTLY close the roll up. I also suggest you store it in a lightproof bag/box until you drop it into the photo shop for processing. While reasonably lightproof with the backing paper, I learned to my regret that leaved a tightly bound roll out in the room light for a few days can lead to light bleeds into the edge of the roll.

    As for two windows, yes, there is a 6x9 window and a 6x6 window. On my camera, I have the wire frame mask that you can fit into the back of the camera to use it as a 6x6 if you want to. If you have the mask, you can decide before you load a roll if you want to shoot 6x6 or 6x9. Naturally you can't change your mind until the next roll.

    Good luck with the experiment - keen to see your results.

    P.S. Did I mention to take care to put the roll in the right way around? I've put it in backwards once in my Mam645 and didn't I feel like a numbskull
    Last edited by GlennSan; 20-10-2009 at 2:50pm.
    The world is an AMAZING place . . .
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  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by davidd View Post
    Hi one other thing

    The timer on the shutter doesn't work any more, it ticks a few times and stops, and you have to push the lever on manually.

    Does anyone have any suggestions for something to clean/lubricate the timer arm (it is the one with the red dot on it). I don't want to get anything near the shutter mechanism.
    From what I've read over the years, it's a specialised task that appears to usually require a full shutter dismantle/clean/lube. I have a similar issue with the self timer on a couple of my folders but have never attempted to do the CLA. Google will bring back detailed howto notes with any luck.

  4. #24
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    there is a photo lab in the city in the Myer centre that does process 120 roll film as I just bought a roll myself from them & checked with them too. They are even selling "new" TLR film camera's which are obvious knock offs of the old models. must admit they do look like fun to use.
    Kevin M
    "FNQ Bolter"

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin M View Post
    there is a photo lab in the city in the Myer centre that does process 120 roll film as I just bought a roll myself from them & checked with them too. They are even selling "new" TLR film camera's which are obvious knock offs of the old models. must admit they do look like fun to use.
    Thanks Kevin, that's very handy to know. The last two rolls of colour 120 I had done at problab at south brisbane cost me an arm and a leg.

  6. #26
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    Hmmm... probably a little late for this thread but here goes. 1. The era this camera was made is best suited to SLOW black and White film. You see contrast was already in the film of that time so the lens was ground for sharpness no need to worry about contrast. Without looking up my old books I'd say your camera has a Tessar based lens (4 elements in 3 groups). I used to have a camera repair business and my training was in the optical side of things. You need to match films of the same era to these sort of cameras... Then they can often knock your socks off! Ps. try to use some sort of lens hood. Cheers Tony. 2010

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