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Thread: Shooting the moon?

  1. #1
    MPimagery
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    Shooting the moon?

    Absolutely massive full moon lastnight, absolutely beautiful....my photos did it no justice..

    Anyone got any ideas on shooting the moon, optimal settings, framing techniques, etc...

  2. #2
    Member Wired's Avatar
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    Biggest lens your've got! (looked awesome through a 600mm last night!!)
    Spot meter off the moon and you should have a pretty fast shutter speed.
    Probly only need like F5.6 odd too
    Josh

    Gear:
    Canon stuff with a few L lenses...


  3. #3
    MPimagery
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    Cool... I'll give that a try..

    I've got the 70-200mm f/2.8L with the 2x extender, that gets me to 400mm which hopefully will be enough.. Might drag out the 350D to shoot it with instead of the 1DmkIIn to take advantage of the 1.6 crop factor..

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    Member Wired's Avatar
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    Well i shot the moon a while ago with just the 200mm on my 350D and while it didnt go anywere near filling the frame i got a great amount of detail and sharpness.
    Also try, if you have it, the 1.4X converter instead of the 2X. I find the 2X softens the image, and may be a reason your not getting the sharpness your after

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    A royal pain in the bum! arthurking83's Avatar
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    I remember coming across a site that had a calculator for taking pics of the moon, and it calculated the exposure for ya!

    Something like 1/250 at f/8 or so... I can't remember really??

    But here's a small quote from a site I found...

    If you wish to photograph the moon itself, the exposure is much different. The moon is an object reflected in sunlight, so the rule-of-thumb is to use the "Sunny-16 Rule". This says, for an object in direct sunlight expose at f/16 and time is 1/ISO. So for 100 speed film, your exposure would be 1/125.
    ***reference mkaz.com

    Use that, use a reasonable ISO, and then experiment lots!

    Also the brightness of the moon is determined by it's elevation(azimuth in degrees) too!

    Higher is brighter, lower is obviously not as bright!
    Nikon D800E, D300, D70s
    {Nikon} -> 50/1.2 : 500/8(CPU'd) : 105/2.8VR Micro : 180/2.8ais : 105mm f/1.8ais : 24mm/2ais
    {Sigma}; ->10-20/4-5.6 : 50/1.4 : 12-24/4.5-5.6II : 150-600mm|S
    {Tamron}; -> 17-50/2.8 : 28-75/2.8 : 70-200/2.8 : 300/2.8 SP MF : 24-70/2.8VC


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    A royal pain in the bum! arthurking83's Avatar
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    MOON EXPOSURE CALCULATOR

    Remember it's only a rough guide, and you have to compensate for azimuth anyhow, but it gives you a good idea!

    Also, I tend to underexpose a bit(not too much) for more contrast, once again... experiment a lil bit

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    Well it's out there now glaring at me....

    So I'm off to have a go. I'll post the results up here later along with exposure details.
    Nikon D200
    Nikon D70
    Nikkor AF-S VR 70-200 2.8
    Nikkor 50mm 1.8
    Nikkor 18-70 kit lens
    Nikon SB800 Speedlite
    and other stuff



    I view stupidity as a virtue.....well it works for me anyway!
    Australian Photography Competitions- Have you voted yet?

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    Member Wired's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wired View Post
    Spot meter off the moon and you should have a pretty fast shutter speed.
    Probly only need like F5.6 odd too
    My bad! Must have had a brain snap earlier.
    Just went out shooting and using P you'll blow out everytime.

    What i actually did last time, and this time is switch to MANUAL mode.
    I shot at 250th @ F5.6 and came out pretty good.
    Tryed a stop or two above and below but the 1/250th @5.6 worked best for me.
    Also tryed the extreme of 2.8 @ 1/1000th and lost the edge detail and sharpness. Funny, the same happened at F16 @ 1/30th?
    F5.6 gave me the best sharpness and edge detail.
    Just uploading pics now and il post it up

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    Heres mine:

    200mm
    F5.6 @ 1/250th




    This is what i see through the veiwfinder at 200mm
    I need a 600mm


  10. #10
    MPimagery
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    Exif from flickr..

    Camera: Canon EOS-1D Mark II N
    Exposure: 0.006 sec (1/180)
    Aperture: f/5.6
    Focal Length: 400 mm
    ISO Speed: 100
    Exposure Bias: 0 EV


    And yeh, the 2x Extender is a bit soft from what I've seen in my own shots.. Really need to get my hands on the 1.4x soon for 'not as long' stuff and from there some how I need to get the missus to approve of the 600mm f/4..,,,

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    OK went by Arthurs website suggestion but no good. Shot @200mm + 1.7 converter (all at iso 100). 1. f8 1/320 2.f16 1/160 3. PS edit of #1.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    I'm thinking the Nikons you will have to do some exposure compensation
    Nikon D80•MB-D80•Nikkor AF-S 70-300 f/4.5-5.6 IF-ED VR•Nikkor 28-200 f/3.5-5.6G IF-ED•Nikkor 18-55 f/3.5-5.6G AF•Nikkor 55-200 f/4-5.6G AF•Nikkor 50 f1.8•Speedlite SB800
    Nikon FM-3
    Canon AV-1 | Canon Eos Elan
    Olympus C-740



  13. #13
    MPimagery
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    That last shot of yours Thing is quite good, plenty of detail in there..

    We all need 600mm f/4's with 1.4x Extenders... We all need to be richer too..hah

  14. #14
    bundybear
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    Quote Originally Posted by MPimagery View Post
    Cool... I'll give that a try..

    I've got the 70-200mm f/2.8L with the 2x extender, that gets me to 400mm which hopefully will be enough.. Might drag out the 350D to shoot it with instead of the 1DmkIIn to take advantage of the 1.6 crop factor..
    what advantage?

  15. #15
    MPimagery
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    Quote Originally Posted by bundybear View Post
    what advantage?
    The Canon 1DmkIIn that I mostly shoot with has a crop factor of 1.3x, 400mm x 1.3 = 520mm effective focal length, while the 350D has a crop factor of 1.6x, 400mm x 1.6 = 640mm effective focal length..

    Both cameras are similar in the pixel count, 8.2 vs 8.0, and image quality but because of different sensor sizes the 350D gets me a little closer, ie. the image takes up more of the sensor because the sensor is smaller..

    I think that makes sense..

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    Member Wired's Avatar
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    Yeah probly the only advantage the 350D has over the 1D's

    I love how you can see crater like bits on the moon with the pail trailsspreading out from it. (top right)
    The more i look at it, the more it looks like an orange

  17. #17
    MPimagery
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    Hey, how do you find your 24-104mm f/4? Was thinking about picking one up as a walk around lens for when I travel, might save my back ache a little..

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    When shooting the moon, I have a big set up.... here is a diagram of my gear.







  19. #19
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    3000mm F1.2 lens


    The 24-105 F4L is awesome!
    I was tossing up between that and the 24-70 2.8L, but after playing with both i decided to go the 24-105, the extra range is VERY handy and it has IS as well. Iv found the extra 35mm and IS easily outweighs the 2.8 for an allrounder.

    Also is suprisingly wide at 24mm,(well, for me) would be even moreso on your 1D
    I havnt even used my 17-55 since buying the 24-105

    Highly recommend it

  20. #20
    A royal pain in the bum! arthurking83's Avatar
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    Thing! how high in the sky was this moon of yours?

    Higher more bright remember? If it was a bit lower, say 45° then it could explain the exposure a little.

    MPimagery! The effective focal length regardless of the sensor size is still 400mm!
    ie. you haven't resolved any more detail by getting closer to the moon as you would, if you were actually using a 500mm or 600mm lens.
    All it does is to crop the sides of the image for less unwanted space!

    So it's really only referring to equivalence of FOV FieldOfView., not any magnification benefit

    eg. Olympus (and Panasonic, and whoever else) have the 4/3rds system, which has a 2x crop factor. Using a traditional 500mm lens doesn't give the same image(detail) as it does like when you use a 1000mm lens on a FF 1D. All it's done is to remove more of the black of space from the image.. the moon will still be the same size, and hence the same detail in the craters etc...

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