I like this mindset.Originally Posted by ricktas
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I use an Amaloco AM50, 1+29 dilution at 20°C . 10 1/2 minutes for 400 ISO. Agitation: 30 seconds continuously, than once per 15 seconds (for 120 film) as per user's manual. Than stop using 1+19 S10, 20°C, 2 minutes (which is considerably longer than it says on the datasheets).
The AM50, they said, was the best replacement for the Neofin Red that I was using in the past. Tempted to switch to AM75, but that's a bit harder to get.
@Ricktas: so, what does you lab use than?
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From what I see on discussion boards Neofin Red is a very high acutance developer, similar to Rodinal. That is probably why you are having pronounced grain.
I wouldn't call 10 minutes a long time at all. Its not uncommon for me to develop for 16 minutes. You would want stand or semi stand development at very high dilutions. Minimal grain and widest tonal range.
Depends on both, developer and film... The recommended developing times for HP5 @ 400 ISO for example is just over 7 minutes, T-max 9 minutes.
I switched to T-max and Tri-X though... problem solved (for me). Not that I'm shooting a lot of film anymore...somewhere between 10 and 15 rolls per year...
Yes but recommended is subjective. If Delta 3200 is actually 1000asa then how can we trust the given timesDigital Truth seems to have the best development chart but it is still inconsistent.
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With Tri-X, never need any other B&W film. Rate it at 400-1600 with Rodinol and you can get great tones with little grain.
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But that is contrary to everything I've ever heard. I've never shot tri-x with Rodinal but I hear that its grain is massive.
Some of us love the really grainy mono look though at times.
"It is one thing to make a picture of what a person looks like, it is another thing to make a portrait of who they are" - Paul Caponigro
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Nikon, etc!
RICK
My Photography
yep, some people do love golf ball sized lumps of grain, and it does lend itself to certain styles. rodinal isn't know for fine grain, but it does produce wonderfully sharp results. so far i have found that tri-x @ 1600, developed for 3 min. a, and 3 min. b gives super fine grain and moderate contrast (which can be adjusted in ps if you are working in hybrid).
As do I. I was just responding to wongyboi.
If you stand develop it at 1:100 over 60 minutes or more the grain is very fine. Single inversions every half hour and the grain is very fine/smooth. Learnt it over at RRF from a few members there.
Ahh ofcourse. I've wanted to try stand development for so long but I never get around to it. I hear that it works better in steel reels than plastic? Well, not better, but a lesser chance of drag from exhausted chemicals..
TriX 220 and HP5, developed in D76. Provia for colour. And there's going to be some Adox infrared shot soon.
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Living and working in the Roaring Forties
Assorted cameras of all sizes and shapes including Pentax K (the original), MX, Z1,K20D; 50mm 1.2, 35mm 2.0, 85mm 1.8
Provia 400x for night photography or low light, nothing beats it!
400x pushes well to 800 or 1600 too
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I tried my first roll of Delta 400 not that long ago and made my first print with it last night. While the print is a good candidate for some dodging (a recessed doorway), I found that it seems to have pretty good lattitude and I must admit, I like the less grainy look it gives. I was going to buy a bulk roll of Hp5+, but since this gear is only $10 more, I might head down this path.
hp5+ would have to be Ilfords biggest seller. it pushes better than delta, making it more flexible, and has a more classical look. those qualities may or may not be important to you. i'm not sure on how it prints up in the darkroom though.
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Thats a good point TOM. I suppose I need to determine how important pushing is for what I want.
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