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Thread: Mirror Lockup Shots

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    Mirror Lockup Shots

    OK, it has been mentioned a few times now about mirror lockup shots to avoid camera shake on not so steady tripods, not too sure what this really means, but..............are we talking about going to the camera menu and selecting mirror lockup as used for accessing the sensor for cleaning, activating it, and then pressing the shutter button ?.....what about viewing to focus on a subject ?

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    Thumbs up

    I tried it a few minutes ago Col,
    It's a shooting mode on the D200, i think the D50 is for sensor cleaning only, i could be wrong. (have a look under shooting modes in the destruction's)
    when mirror lock is up you cant meter/auto focus or see through the viewfinder...Press the shutter release to raise the mirror, then press again to take the picture.
    "If your pictures aren't good enough, you're not close enough." - legendary war photographer Robert Capa.

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    Ah right, thanx mate, nah the D-50 only has it for sensor cleaning....hmmmm, but I wonder if it would still work ?

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    Yeah another feature I needed to go to the D80 for. Colin there is a setting where the mirror locks up and .4 seconds after that the shutter opens. Kinda reminds me of the shutter lag in P&S since if you forget to set it back all your handheld pics look you you pressed the button and thought the camera took the shot right away so it got the shot when you were dropping the camera or reframing..yep I am so embarrassed as I have done it more times than I care to remember.
    Nikon D80•MB-D80•Nikkor AF-S 70-300 f/4.5-5.6 IF-ED VR•Nikkor 28-200 f/3.5-5.6G IF-ED•Nikkor 18-55 f/3.5-5.6G AF•Nikkor 55-200 f/4-5.6G AF•Nikkor 50 f1.8•Speedlite SB800
    Nikon FM-3
    Canon AV-1 | Canon Eos Elan
    Olympus C-740



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    A royal pain in the bum! arthurking83's Avatar
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    Hey Col,

    MLU is normally used for one(or two) reasons.

    If you have a superduper long focal length or using a telescope, or if your tripod is of unworthy support value.

    I need it a few times when using the 500 mirror, or alternatively I'll place my hand over the camera body to dampen the mirror induced vibes, and also shoot 3fps in the hope that it'll counter the vibes effect.

    the other reason you may need MLU mode is if you have a lens type that pushes the rear element well into the mirror box, ie. closer to the film plane.
    There are a few lenses of this type still around and the ost famous one is the 'the dish', which is the famous 6 and 8mm fisheyes made many years ago, which give a 200°+ view, and a front element the size of a large dinner plate. The rear element sits just a few mm from the film plane, and would completely destroy a mirror flap, if the body doesn't have MLU mode.

    Like A_K said the MLU mode on the D50/70 is only for sensor cleaning.
    Nikon D800E, D300, D70s
    {Nikon} -> 50/1.2 : 500/8(CPU'd) : 105/2.8VR Micro : 180/2.8ais : 105mm f/1.8ais : 24mm/2ais
    {Sigma}; ->10-20/4-5.6 : 50/1.4 : 12-24/4.5-5.6II : 150-600mm|S
    {Tamron}; -> 17-50/2.8 : 28-75/2.8 : 70-200/2.8 : 300/2.8 SP MF : 24-70/2.8VC


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    Quote Originally Posted by arthurking83 View Post
    the other reason you may need MLU mode is if you have a lens type that pushes the rear element well into the mirror box, ie. closer to the film plane.

    AK
    One of the things mentioned in Hogan's D200 ebook is never to fit a lens which extends into the mirror box (he lists a number of them) cause when the mirror tries to return to its rest position the lens will cause it damage.

    In MLU once the image is taken I think the mirror returns to its rest state and not remain in the lock up position. I might be wrong as I haven't used this setting yet but only what I've read and comprehended.

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    I've read that myself, and I believe some TC's can have the same effect.

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    To quote directly from Hogan's D200 ebook:-

    Finally, some individual lenses have additional limitations:

    . TC-16S AF Teleconverter is incompatible and shouldn't be used.

    . Non-AI lenses are incompatible, may cause damage to the camera, and shouldn't be used (note that most non-AI lenses can be converted to AI).

    . Lenses that require the AU-1 focusing unit (e.g. the Nikkor 400mm f/4.5, Nikkor 600mm f/5.6, Nikkor 800mm f/8, and the Nikkor1200mm f/11) are incompatible and shouldn't be used.

    . Fisheye lenses whose rear element sticks into the mirror box and that require mirror lockup (e.g. the Nikkor 6mm f/5.6, Nikkor 8mm f/8, and Nikkor 10mm f/5.6 OP) are incompatible and shouldn't be used.

    . Nikkor 21mm f/4 lenses are incompatible and shouldn't be used. (Nikon's note in the manual implies that a later version of this lens might be compatible, but this lens has a rear element that sticks into the mirror box.)

    . The K2 rings are incompatible and shouldn't be used.

    . Nikkor ED 180-600mm f/8 with serial numbers 174041 to 174180 are incompatible and shouldn't be used.

    . Nikkor ED 360-1200mm f/8 with serial numbers 174031 to 174127 are incompatible and shouldn't be used.

    · Nikkor 200-600mm f/9.5 with serial numbers 280001 to 300490 are incompatible and shouldn't be used.

    · Lenses for the F3AF (e.g. the Nikkor 80mm f/2.8, Nikkor 200mm f/3.5, and TC-16 Teleconverter) are incompatible and shouldn't be used.

    · PC Nikkor 28mm f/4 with serial numbers of 180900 or earlier are incompatible and shouldn't be used.

    · PC Nikkor 35mm film f/2.8 with serial numbers 851001 to 906200 are incompatible and shouldn't be used.

    · PC Nikkor 35mm film f/3.5 is incompatible and shouldn't be used. (Note: Nikon's manual implies that a newer version of this lens can be used, but Nikon only made one version of this lens! Perhaps they were referring to the later f/2.8 version.)

    · Old style Nikkor 1000mm f/6.3 Reflex is incompatible and shouldn't be used. (This apparently refers to the version that was intended for rangefinder cameras, which have a different lens mount.)

    · Nikkor 1000mm f/11 Reflex with serial numbers 142361 to 143000 is incompatible and shouldn't be used.

    · Nikkor 2000mm f/11 Reflex with serial numbers 200111 to 200310 is incompatible and shouldn't be used.

    Finally, note that if you use the MB-0200, you may need to use a short extension tube to use bellows or other accessories that stick far down below where lenses normally do.

    Note the above is a scan of the printed pages where the letter s may equal 5 or 1 sometimes becomes 7 and forward slash is 1. I've done a quick check but may have missed a few errors.

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    Thumbs up

    Cheer's Mark,
    I missed that bit in the ebook.

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    Good stuff Mark, would be easy to get caught out if buying a deal on ebay or the like, that saves a bit of research time

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    Quote Originally Posted by MarkW View Post
    ......
    In MLU once the image is taken I think the mirror returns to its rest state and not remain in the lock up position. .....
    Aha!
    I haven't really looked into this with too much depth, so before I commit to anything, I'll need to.
    Maybe the D2xs is really the way to go


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    Quote Originally Posted by arthurking83 View Post
    Aha!
    I haven't really looked into this with too much depth, so before I commit to anything, I'll need to.
    Maybe the D2xs is really the way to go


    Hahahaha.......always a better mousetrap eh ?

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    I could be stupid but Mirror lock-up is that the same as BULB setting?

    I have a pentax K100D but can't find anything that explains this.

    Please help

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    No mirror lock up is when the mirror flips up before the shutter opens...this reduces camera shake while mounted on a tripod.

    BULB is when you manually or electronically hold open the shutter for a time that you determine. You hold the shutter release either by holding the button or the remote (wireless or cable) when first pressed the shutter opens..and when released the shutter closes...you have to time it manually using a watch or timer or by the counting method.

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    In an SLR or DSLR (virtually the same thing), before the shutter screen makes its pass, the viewing mirror must fold up out of the way.

    Try this site for more info http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/camera5.htm

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    Thanks Guys.

    I did manage to download my manual and on page 67 it explains it perfectly.

    Still thank you very much for explaining this to me.

    Roof

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