User Tag List

Thanks useful information Thanks useful information:  0
Results 1 to 12 of 12

Thread: Night pics with big background & foreground subject

  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    14 Apr 2009
    Location
    Yarramalong
    Posts
    73
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Night pics with big background & foreground subject

    I want to take a photo of an object, in front of the Harbour Bridge at night.

    I've taken a few night shots of the bridge and the opera house before (so I am aware I'll need a tripod, slow shutter speeds and a large depth of field). But I've never taken night pics of an object with big things in the background and googling hasn't helped so far.

    Is anything different when there's a foreground subject added to the mix of a traditional night bridge shot?
    Will the available light from the long exposure be enough to illuminate the object, or do I need to use a flash so the object in the foreground is illuminated?

    I'm asking because I don't know if I'll have time to do test shots, before I need to do this for a group and I'd hate for none of the pics to work.

    I assume if I do need a flash, I'll have to buy one, as the camera flash probably won't be effective enough - is that right?
    (I have a tripod, a Nikon D70s and a Nikkor 18-70mm lens)
    Nikon D70s / Nikkor 18-70mm / Nikkor 12-24mm / Tamron 90mm macro / SB600

  2. #2
    Member merlin's Avatar
    Join Date
    10 May 2008
    Location
    Geelong
    Posts
    86
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Whats the object how large small?? colour? How light is the area your thinking of going to?

  3. #3
    Fuji Fanatic
    Join Date
    20 Mar 2008
    Location
    Glenorchy
    Posts
    4,040
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Whether camera flash would do will depend on the object (size, colour/luminosity). One way is to do the long exposure and then use a manually operated flash at the end to illuminate the object. But you would have to practice, I imagine. Someone on here may be able to offer advice.

    If you are in Sydney you could proabaly hire an off camera flash, and I'm sure you can download instrcutions for them on how to fire independently from the camera (if they do not come with the hired equipment).
    Odille

    “Can't keep my eyes from the circling sky”

    My Blog | Canon 1DsMkII | 60D | Tokina 20-35mm f/2.8 AF AT-X PRO | EF50mm f/1.8| Sigma 150-500mm F5-6.3 APO DG OS HSM | Fujifilm X-T1 & X-M1 | Fujinon XC 16-50mm F3.5-5.6 OIS | Fujinon XC 50-230mm F3.5-5.6 OIS | Fujinon XF 18-55mm F2.8-4R LM OIS | tripods, flashes, filters etc ||

  4. #4
    Member
    Threadstarter

    Join Date
    14 Apr 2009
    Location
    Yarramalong
    Posts
    73
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Sorry - the object is a motorbike (or multiple motorbikes).

    I think you're right Analog. I'm just going to have to find a way to practice it first.

  5. #5
    Member
    Join Date
    09 Jan 2009
    Location
    Blacktown, Sydney
    Posts
    56
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Maybe you can take the photos around 20 minutes after sunset so you still have some light which you can use to your advantage. You can use exposure lock to lock in the exposure of the background and use a flash to illuminate the bikes in the foreground.

    Just an idea.
    Aka - Gaston A

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Gear List

    Camera:Nikon D90 + MB-D80 Batteries grip
    Lenses: Nikon 24-70 F2.8 & Nikon 50mm F1.8
    Tripod: Velbon Sherpa 803R
    Flash: Nikon SB600 with a range of diffusers
    Software: Adobe Lightroom 2 and Photoshop CS3

  6. #6
    Administrator ricktas's Avatar
    Join Date
    24 Jun 2007
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    15,129
    Mentioned
    8 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    You can also illuminate the foreground subject with Torches etc.
    "It is one thing to make a picture of what a person looks like, it is another thing to make a portrait of who they are" - Paul Caponigro

    Constructive Critique of my photographs is always appreciated
    Nikon, etc!

    RICK
    My Photography

  7. #7
    Shore Crawler Dylan & Marianne's Avatar
    Join Date
    21 Mar 2009
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    8,382
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I often do what rick has suggested - allows you creativity in lighting like that too
    Call me Dylan! www.everlookphotography.com | www.everlookphotography.wordpress.com | www.flickr.com/photos/dmtoh
    Canon EOS 5dmk3 : 17-40 F4 L, 70-200F2.8 canon L, 24-70mm canon L, Gitzo Safari +1178 ballhead. |Canon 5dmkII, 16-35mmF2.8 II L, Gitzo 2541 )
    Singh Ray/Hitech/Lee assorted filters, Z pro modified system Cokin holder
    Post : Lightroom 3.6 catalogue -> Export as 16bit TIFF, Edited CS5 -> resized for web.

  8. #8
    Member lloydy's Avatar
    Join Date
    05 Feb 2009
    Location
    Redfern
    Posts
    11
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I would use one or more off camera flash units if you can get hold of them.. They can be fired wirelessly, or I understand that the Nikon has a commander mode or some such that can fire off camera flashes.

    Set your shutter speed for the background. The flash(s) will only fire for a very short (about 1/10000 sec) and will illuminate the bikes, the shutter will stay open to capture the background.

    Its all a lot of fun, and can bve a lot to get your head around. I have sworn never to use on camera flash again after playing with multiple off camera flashes.

    If your interested you can go here

    http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html

    and here

    http://strobist.blogspot.com/2007/06...roduction.html

    for some real interestiung stuff from the experts (more than I could ever tell you )
    have fun
    Pete
    Canon EOS1000, Canon 300D plus crappy kit lenses, Canon 40D, Canon 5dMkII
    Sigma 12-24mm F4.5-5.6 EX DG, Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8 EX DG HSM, Canon 24-105 EF f/4L IS USM
    Canon 50mm EF f1.2/L USM, Sigma 150mm F2.8 EX APO Macro DG, Canon 70-300 EF f/4.5-5.6 DO IS USM

    all shared with my lovely wife (except for the 5DMKII)

  9. #9
    Member
    Threadstarter

    Join Date
    14 Apr 2009
    Location
    Yarramalong
    Posts
    73
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by ricktas View Post
    You can also illuminate the foreground subject with Torches etc.
    I think I'm going to give this a try. A quick question - would you expose for the object while flashlit, or would you expose for the lit-up bridge in the background?

  10. #10
    Administrator ricktas's Avatar
    Join Date
    24 Jun 2007
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    15,129
    Mentioned
    8 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Chromo View Post
    I think I'm going to give this a try. A quick question - would you expose for the object while flashlit, or would you expose for the lit-up bridge in the background?
    Always expose for the highlights (brightest part of your scene). If you expose for something else, you will end up with blown highlights, which are impossible to recover. Whereas shadow detail can often be recovered and improved quite well. This applies to all photography, not just night shots etc

  11. #11
    Member
    Join Date
    30 May 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    2,599
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Not sure if this is the 'right' way, but I've tried using 2nd Curtain flash.

    The camera will give off an inital, smaller pulse at the start of the exposure then give a full (depending on your setting) flash right at the end.

    If you're within a few metres of the foreground subjects, this ought to be enough, otherwise you may need a external flash.

    Scotty
    Canon 7D : Canon EF 70-200mm f:2.8 L IS II USM - Canon EF 24-105 f:4 L IS USM - Canon EF 50mm f:1.8 - Canon EF-s 18-55mm f:3.5-5.6
    Sigma APO 150-500mm f:5-6.3 DG OS HSM
    - Sigma 10-20mm f:3.5 EX DC HSM
    Speedlite 580 EX II - Nissin Di866 II - Yongnuo 460-II x2 - Kenko extension tube set - Canon Extender EF 1.4x II
    Manfroto monopod - SILK 700DX Pro tripod - Remote release - Cokin Z-Pro filter box + Various filters

    Current Social Experiment: CAPRIL - Wearing a cape for the month of April to support Beyond Blue
    Visit me on Flickr

  12. #12
    Member
    Threadstarter

    Join Date
    14 Apr 2009
    Location
    Yarramalong
    Posts
    73
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Huge thanks to all who have helped me in this thread. Not only have your posts helped, but you've spurred me on to do further learning. Thanks for taking the time to assist know-nothing newbies guys

    I love this place, even though I'm more of a lurker by nature. Now I need to find more time to practice, practice, practice!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •