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  1. #1
    Administrator ricktas's Avatar
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    Levels Tutorial

    What are ‘levels”?
    simply, levels are the range of tones in your photo from deep black to pure white. A photo that covers the full range, but isn't blown out (to bright) or to dark is more visually appealing than one that isn’t. This is not to say that a dark photo or a high-key photo cannot be successful.

    THIS IS A BASIC LEVELS TUTORIAL, IT DOES NOT FULLY COVER ALL ASPECTS OF LEVELS ADJUSTMENTS.

    In Photoshop, to access the levels adjustment screen, click Layers > Adjustment > Levels Adjustment, on the pop-up screen, just click OK.



    In the Levels histogram above, the left is the darker tones, the right is the lighter tones. For more information on reading histograms, click here.

    A good histogram should begin in the bottom left corner, arch up and then come down and finish in the bottom right corner. Mostly though, there will be jagged peaks and troughs, rather than a smooth curve. A histogram with all the data bunched to the left is an under-exposed photo, one with all the data bunched to the right is an over-exposed photo. The above is an example of a good histogram.

    A levels adjustment can be handy when there is empty space at either end, before the graph starts to climb.

    There is no such thing as a perfect histogram.




    The above levels histogram shows a photo that is both under-exposed (note the big peak on the left edge) but also parts of the photo are over-exposed (see the peak on the right end). This does not mean it’s a bad photo; it just has very dark and very bright elements to it.



    The above levels histogram shows a photo that is under-exposed. Notice how the right end (the highlight end) is devoid of data in the graph. You can correct the levels of this photo by dragging the small white triangle (under the right end of the graph) in towards where the graph data starts to appear on the right.



    The above levels histogram shows an over-exposed photo, generally when the over-exposure is to this extent, the photo cannot be salvaged. To correct Levels here, the left (black) slider needs to be dragged in to the graph left side start. It is worth considering a possible black and white conversion, as mono photographs can look amazingly effective with over-exposed areas. The gaps in this histogram were the result of a small JPG version of a photo. JPG compresses filesizes effectively, but is a 'lossy' file format. Meaning that each time the photo is resaved it loses more data. The gaps in the above histogram show the missing data that JPG compression causes, effectively.

    How to adjust the Levels
    Underneath the histogram are three sliders, a black one on the left, a grey one in the middle and a white one on the right. By moving these sliders you can perform a levels adjustment. What you need to do is drag the black one in till it lines up with the edge of where the graph data starts to rise, the right one in to where the graph data starts to rise on that end, and if you want to adjust contrast, adjust the middle slider.

    It is a simple process of moving those sliders inward to the edge of where the graph starts to rise, creating a range of tones in your photo from black to white. A levels adjustment can do wonders to the final outcome of your photo.

    Below are some examples of a photo and its histogram, showing a before and after adjustment.

    Under Exposed Photo:


    Levels histogram for above:


    Levels adjusted photo (right slider*white one* moved inwards to touch edge of graph)


    Levels histogram after adjustment of sliders:


    I HOPE MEMBERS FIND THIS BASIC LEVELS TUTORIAL HELPFUL IN THE PROCESS OF IMPROVING YOUR POST PROCESSING.
    "It is one thing to make a picture of what a person looks like, it is another thing to make a portrait of who they are" - Paul Caponigro

    Constructive Critique of my photographs is always appreciated
    Nikon, etc!

    RICK
    My Photography

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    Thanks Rick - very helpfull - I have always wondered what that middle slider did - now I know!

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    Nice writeup Rick.
    Michael.

    Camera: Canon EOS 400D w/ Battery Grip (BG-E3)
    Lenses: Sigma 10-20, Sigma 24-70, Canon 50 f/1.8 & Sigma 70-200
    Software: Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 1.4 and Photoshop CS3
    Photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/mrjorge/

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    "one with all the data bunched to the left is an over-exposed photo"

    Possible typo, shouldn't data on the right be overexposed?

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    Quote Originally Posted by sixfootfour View Post
    "one with all the data bunched to the left is an over-exposed photo"

    Possible typo, shouldn't data on the right be overexposed?
    Ah, thanks, I always have trouble with left and right. Comes from working in medical. We call them as they are to the patient, so we talk about left, meaning patients left, but its our right. Always stumps me. Will fix

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    Quote Originally Posted by ricktas View Post
    Ah, thanks, I always have trouble with left and right. Comes from working in medical. We call them as they are to the patient, so we talk about left, meaning patients left, but its our right. Always stumps me. Will fix

    ...riiiiight *mental note* do NOT go to see ricktas for that leg amputation!

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    Thanks Rick, a very helpful explanation.
    ........................................

    Di

    Canon 50D, Canon 17-85, 50mm 1.8, Speedlite 580EX11
    "You have to make the most of the chances that come your way. "

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    Great little tutorial
    Yet another handy notch I can wear on my photography belt thanks to this site.

    A question though: When practising this on some of my old under exposed images, I noticed that certain objects such as night lights etc blow out and detract from the image when the levels are adjusted.

    Is there an accompanying adjustment, ie: Brightness/Contrast that can be used to limit this?

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    Quote Originally Posted by marko View Post
    Great little tutorial
    Yet another handy notch I can wear on my photography belt thanks to this site.

    A question though: When practising this on some of my old under exposed images, I noticed that certain objects such as night lights etc blow out and detract from the image when the levels are adjusted.

    Is there an accompanying adjustment, ie: Brightness/Contrast that can be used to limit this?
    There is, its the curves adjustment, which is accessible via the menu, right near levels. Curves are a bit more complex, and I haven't written a tutorial on them at this stage.

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    I think I know what Rick (nouveau1) is getting at here, as I think I have the same question.

    It appears to me that these levels adjustments are very similar to what you might do with Adobe Camera Raw with a raw image? (Or any other raw image tool for that matter)? DPP is similar in that you can drag the edges of the histogram in and ACR uses the numerous sliders to do effectively the same thing. They all just have subtly different terminology or ways of displaying these controls.

    Am I right?
    Mic

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    www.michaelgoulding.com

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    Yes Mic. Levels adjustments can be performed in DPP, Camera Raw, Lightroom, Aperture, Picasa, Gimp, etc etc. They all work similarly, but may have different icons etc for the various functions and the nomenclature for those functions may also differ.

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    Ok so I'm on the right track. Would it be safe to saw where possible do your levels adjustments in the raw form and if all you have is jpg or tiff, use PS and the method above?

    Now then, curves is another story yes? ACR can't do curves other than some minor adjustments with saturation etc. Whereas PS can do curves adjustments with much more flexibility yes?

    (DPP has another tab for doing curves adjustments which could account for the confusion earlier in this thread).

    Curves I have no idea...I look forward to that tute when you get the time!

    Cheers,

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    I tend to do a general check of the histogram in my RAW software(Lightroom) and occasionally make adjustments at that point. Ultimately it is about getting the exposure right in-camera, well as right as you can, and then work wit it in the editing software of your choice. All the adjustments and changes you make to your photo while editing it in PS or similar can affect the histogram, so it can be worthwhile re-checking your histogram (and levels) towards the end of your work-flow as well.

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    Thanks Rick, that helpful advice is very much appreciated. Elvie

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    Thank you everything is starting to make sense to me now.

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    Makes note: Learn photoshop and leave Lightroom for awhile.
    Cheers

    Wazza
    ---------------------

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    Quote Originally Posted by Warren Ackary View Post
    Makes note: Learn photoshop and leave Lightroom for awhile.
    Why is that? Lightroom is far easier to master than Photoshop.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Warren Ackary View Post
    Makes note: Learn photoshop and leave Lightroom for awhile.
    Lightroom has a histogram and you can adjust levels in it too.

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    Ta... gave me an insight to Photoshop abit more than I had

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