Just seen this Michael...a terrific piece of work and thanks for sharing. Nice to learn something new so early in the new year.
Cheers
Just seen this Michael...a terrific piece of work and thanks for sharing. Nice to learn something new so early in the new year.
Cheers
Hi Michael.
Wow, that has really helped me understand alot about your beautiful pictures!! Your pictures are really insiring and really beautiful!
Thanks for putting it up. I was just going through this section and came across it.
Sarge
Thanks for this - I can achieve this effect in lower light (I have a pic from inside a cave where it has the flowing water effect) but just can't seem to get the same effect in brighter light settings, so you have given me something to work on.
Just regarding the quote above, I can tell you that the longest exposure I can get on my P&S (Canon Powershot A710is) is 15 seconds. And that is only by setting it at 15 seconds and using the self-timer on the camera. Just a little info FYI..
Sue
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Canon Powershot A710is
Hoping to move up to something a bit more
in-depth very soon
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Thanks for the feedback guys, glad its proving useful. Unfortunatly I think that most P&Ss will probably have similar limits as they aren't really designed for taking longer exposures. But even 15 seconds will allow you to get some nice slow shutter speed effects such as streams and waves etc.
hmm... i dont remember reading it 3 pages back but did you mention whats the best time of day or the best lighting conditions. with those sorts of exposure times it would have to be almost pich black out wouldnt it?
Thanks for pointing that out David, I don't think I really mentioned that side of it.
For land- and sea-scapes the best time is generally the hour before sunrise and the hour after sunset, often referred to as the "magic hour" (however, an hour after a sunrise and before a sunset can also be quite good light, but generally won't allow really long exposures without ND filters) the other good time is during adverse weather e.g. misty, wet and overcast weather, some people may not like to be out taking photos in these conditions, but I love wading up a stream in the poring rain (must be something wrong with me ) but these sort of conditions present ideal conditions for streams or forest photography and also allow the long shutter speeds for getting that milky water effect.
I generally find I finish up about an hour after sunset as its getting too dark to take photos. I have found that I nearly always throw the very last photo out because it was too dark, this is because the light is fading quicker than the camera can capture it at the low ISO used. (Tip: a good headlamp is essentil when hoping around rocks etc in the dark and finding your way back to your car after a sunset).
With a sunset its easy to arrive a bit before and find a good spot, but with a sunrise its a bit harder as you will be starting in the dark and finishing about 20mins after the sun has risen so scouting out the location prior to a sunrise helps a lot.
It also depends a lot on the environmental conditions as well e.g. which way your facing (light fades much quicker when facing away from thr sunset/rise so you get less time to take photos) your location e.g. by the sea the light will last much longer than if your in a valley etc and the time of year also plays a big role, during winter the transition from light to dark is quite quick where as during summer the sunrise/set is much more dawn out (well here in little ol' Tassie anyway!)
Cheers,
Michael.
Thanks very much Michael for this. I am very keen to try ND long exposures and you have spurred me on. Love your pics.