best value telephoto lens for Nikon d5500?

[Cage]

As both lens have the same aperture and 9 rounded diaphram blades, I can't see there being a lot of difference in the bokeh.

And I'm a bit confused by what you mean by "paying extra for flexibility".

[arthurking83]

I doubt bokeh will be any different .. I think I read that the optical formula is the same. But that AF algorithm has changed so it may focus faster or something.
But like Kev said, the G1 model(I have too) is blistering fast af(definitely my fastest AFing lens). So, while it's great to have faster and or more accurate Af, it's not that the G1 model needed it.

It is a big lens tho .. a lot bigger than lenses of this focal length range should be, or used to be.

[Cage]

I doubt bokeh will be any different .. I think I read that the optical formula is the same. But that AF algorithm has changed so it may focus faster or something.
But like Kev said, the G1 model(I have too) is blistering fast af(definitely my fastest AFing lens). So, while it's great to have faster and or more accurate Af, it's not that the G1 model needed it.

It is a big lens tho .. a lot bigger than lenses of this focal length range should be, or used to be.

'Big' is somewhat subjective.

I currently have my 24-70 on the D600 and the combo feels really lightweight.

It is possibly due to the fact that for the last month I've been using the Sigma 150-600 Sport on the D7200, and that combo seems to weigh a ton.

[Ilovebokeh]

Thank you to you both.

Flexibility for USB port plus FX if I ever change.

Shame about the bokeh then.

So the Nikon lens would have been my best bokeh, but I would not have been able to auto focus. I think I could have learned but I appreciate
arthurking83 posting their actual experience/preference for the Tamron.

OK, last part of the purchase ( I hope)

What are the essential accessories I need with this lens?

Eg.

my tamron f2.8 18-50 has a UV filter, lens hood, and graded filter (that cost $100.)

I carry in a bag and would love a proper photography backpack but assume I will just wrap my not-in-use lens in a jacket in my normal backpack.

thank you

[arthurking83]

....

What are the essential accessories I need with this lens?

...

Forget filters unless they have a specific purpose(as opposed to a generalised purpose)

UV/protective filters are pretty much useless. 1/. you don't need UV filtration .. the sensor does that anyhow! .. and so does the lens.

Filters that are handy to have are a good quality polariser on something like an 18-xxx or if you end up getting the 24-70. Note that the 24-70 does need an 82mm filter and they cost big bucks for a quality one.
Polarisers act as good at protection as do any UV/protective filters .. and they help gain bit of contrast in the right conditions.

[Cage]

https://www.eglobaldigitalcameras.co...nt-afa032.html


Trustworthy? I want to buy.

This link is for the Tamron 24-70mm F2.8 G2.

Have you switched from the 70-200 ?

[Ilovebokeh]

This link is for the Tamron 24-70mm F2.8 G2.

Have you switched from the 70-200 ?

Ha, no - just wrong link posted. Concept is that store.

[Ilovebokeh]

just typed out massive post that is gone.

ok options before I pull the trigger.

no 1 (for me)

$1,550 used

$1,050 Nikon 610 (7,500 shutter count. Photographer says he bought 2 years ago - can't remember where, which sounds suspicious - but comes in 'mint condition' with box etc.)
and
$500 80-200 f2.8 nikon lens

i love the bokeh on this lens

http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/80200afs.htm




OR

2) $1,500 new tamron g2 70-200 f2.8 grey market - 2 yr int. warranty


OR


3) $2,000 tamron g2 70-200 f2.8 aus store - 2 yr aus warranty

Your input is appreciated. I know this may seem like I am rehashing, but this is a very important decision for me so I appreciate opinions, risks, risk management suggestions.

If risk was no problem, 1 would be my favourite by even more. 2 is uncomfortable for me - to buy such a large priced intricate item from an unknown. 3. is no guarantee either. I may move and the store (good reputation) may not be easy to work with if something goes wrong - I would be a new customer.



Thank you

[arthurking83]

just typed out massive post that is gone.

ok options before I pull the trigger.

no 1 (for me)

$1,550 used

$1,050 Nikon 610 (7,500 shutter count. Photographer says he bought 2 years ago - can't remember where, which sounds suspicious - but comes in 'mint condition' with box etc.)
and
$500 80-200 f2.8 nikon lens

i love the bokeh on this lens
....

I was under the impression that the 80-200/2.8 lens you referred too wayyyy back when was the AF-D version(due to the pricing of the lens you quoted).
As you found at KR's site, there is an AF-S version .. confusingly names AF-S <lens stuff> D!
The important notation there is the AF-S at the start of the lens' name.
If you can find this lens for $500(in good condition) .. buy 10 of them! .. and buy me one too for the tip I just gave you.
This lens is a Nikon legend lens. Very highly regarded and it was replaced by the first version of the 70-200/2.8 VR. All that updated from the AF-S80-200 all say that it was better overall than the 70-200VR.
From memory, this lens still sells for about $1500 second hand at the low end of the price scale. A mint example usually closer to $2k. Those that have one hold onto them for this reason.
AF-S motor is good, strong quiet and all.. but being old can be worn out, or dead. No replacement parts exist any more, as I remember. (Nikon don't want folks fixing them up, as it reduces sales of the latest lenses).

So the tip today is to be 100% sure which version of this lens you've seen for sale at $500. My guess is that it's more likely to be the AF-D version, as that's roughly what they will sell for.
Note that there are multiple versions of the AF-D version too.
The older type is the push/pull zoom action lens .. I wouldn't mount that lens to any camera body other than a D200 and up(in terms of pro level). That lens has no tripod mounting and is too heavy for plastic bodied cameras(D600, D5500, D7200 and so forth).
Also the lens AF system is a bit more annoying on that push/pull lens type too(from what I've read, noisier).
I had the twin ring 80-200/2.8 made sure to get the correct type, and not the push-pull type. I got mine new back then.
The twin ring type, has a tripod foot collar, so that if you do mount a D600, you mount it to a tripod via the lens foot. You could mount the camera to the tripod for a shot or two every now and then, but almost certainly over time if you do this, it will bend/stress the lens mount at the camera body. Not something I would do, other than to test some weird theory .. once!

I know Kev would kind'a agree with me, here given the choices .. but I'd say #3.

If something goes wrong with the lens, remember that Tamron are giving the warranty, so technically, no mater where you live Tamron Aus will allow you to take it to any authorised dealer to get it sorted.

#2 sounds too tempting for me to ignore tho ..
The way I look at this dilemma is: for a 3-4K expenditure, $500 is small fry by way of comparison. Obviously $500 is still the same amount of money saved, but the percentage difference is less obvious.
That is, if I just saved or received $5K to spend on junk I don't need, what's the difference if it's $4.5K or $5K .. that's 10% difference. . and both a $4.5K or a $5K spend is still a large dent in the wallet. The $500 difference feels less of an impact.
$500 saving on a $1.5k-$2K spend is a larger percentage difference, and I see that as a red rag(to a bull) .. so I'm more likely to choose the cheaper option.
Order the USB dongle while you're at it too tho. If somethign does go wrong, it may just be a firmware fix that sorts it.
Also, if there is any focus issues, you can sort them yourself.
So if you go grey, you get the G2 lens + USB dock for less than you'd get the lens alone, here .. plus some saved dollars in the bank.

Also things to remember with respect to tripod:
Q. What tripod setup do you have?
If you have an arca swiss clamp system, the G2 lens has the dovetail built into the lens foot. G1 lens doesn't. So you would have to arrange a clamp foot for the G1 lens.
if you use a manfrotto type tripod, they have their own clamp system. The cheaper ones I hate .. the longer video type clamps are ok, if a bit bulky.
Having switched to Arca Swiss type a while back, their system is by far the best clamp type. Not only for flexibility but also usage too.

That may add other accessories to purchase to make the whole shebang work for 'ya as you want it too.

[Ilovebokeh]

I was under the impression that the 80-200/2.8 lens you referred too wayyyy back when was the AF-D version(due to the pricing of the lens you quoted).
As you found at KR's site, there is an AF-S version .. confusingly names AF-S <lens stuff> D!
The important notation there is the AF-S at the start of the lens' name.
If you can find this lens for $500(in good condition) .. buy 10 of them! .. and buy me one too for the tip I just gave you.
This lens is a Nikon legend lens. Very highly regarded and it was replaced by the first version of the 70-200/2.8 VR. All that updated from the AF-S80-200 all say that it was better overall than the 70-200VR.
From memory, this lens still sells for about $1500 second hand at the low end of the price scale. A mint example usually closer to $2k. Those that have one hold onto them for this reason.
AF-S motor is good, strong quiet and all.. but being old can be worn out, or dead. No replacement parts exist any more, as I remember. (Nikon don't want folks fixing them up, as it reduces sales of the latest lenses).

So the tip today is to be 100% sure which version of this lens you've seen for sale at $500. My guess is that it's more likely to be the AF-D version, as that's roughly what they will sell for.
Note that there are multiple versions of the AF-D version too.
The older type is the push/pull zoom action lens .. I wouldn't mount that lens to any camera body other than a D200 and up(in terms of pro level). That lens has no tripod mounting and is too heavy for plastic bodied cameras(D600, D5500, D7200 and so forth).
Also the lens AF system is a bit more annoying on that push/pull lens type too(from what I've read, noisier).
I had the twin ring 80-200/2.8 made sure to get the correct type, and not the push-pull type. I got mine new back then.
The twin ring type, has a tripod foot collar, so that if you do mount a D600, you mount it to a tripod via the lens foot. You could mount the camera to the tripod for a shot or two every now and then, but almost certainly over time if you do this, it will bend/stress the lens mount at the camera body. Not something I would do, other than to test some weird theory .. once!

I know Kev would kind'a agree with me, here given the choices .. but I'd say #3.

If something goes wrong with the lens, remember that Tamron are giving the warranty, so technically, no mater where you live Tamron Aus will allow you to take it to any authorised dealer to get it sorted.

#2 sounds too tempting for me to ignore tho ..
The way I look at this dilemma is: for a 3-4K expenditure, $500 is small fry by way of comparison. Obviously $500 is still the same amount of money saved, but the percentage difference is less obvious.
That is, if I just saved or received $5K to spend on junk I don't need, what's the difference if it's $4.5K or $5K .. that's 10% difference. . and both a $4.5K or a $5K spend is still a large dent in the wallet. The $500 difference feels less of an impact.
$500 saving on a $1.5k-$2K spend is a larger percentage difference, and I see that as a red rag(to a bull) .. so I'm more likely to choose the cheaper option.
Order the USB dongle while you're at it too tho. If somethign does go wrong, it may just be a firmware fix that sorts it.
Also, if there is any focus issues, you can sort them yourself.
So if you go grey, you get the G2 lens + USB dock for less than you'd get the lens alone, here .. plus some saved dollars in the bank.

Also things to remember with respect to tripod:
Q. What tripod setup do you have?
If you have an arca swiss clamp system, the G2 lens has the dovetail built into the lens foot. G1 lens doesn't. So you would have to arrange a clamp foot for the G1 lens.
if you use a manfrotto type tripod, they have their own clamp system. The cheaper ones I hate .. the longer video type clamps are ok, if a bit bulky.
Having switched to Arca Swiss type a while back, their system is by far the best clamp type. Not only for flexibility but also usage too.

That may add other accessories to purchase to make the whole shebang work for 'ya as you want it too.

Thank you.

Yes, the lens was unknown but probably AF-D (not that I can tell the difference which is my concern...)

http://promaster.com/Product/2696 is my tripod (not recommended but a 'sunk' cost (and leg) pardon the pun.) Is it compatible with the G2?

And what is this USB dongle?

Sorry to have all the questions, but I want to get this right. This is a 'life is short' purchase.

PS. I had to laugh today that I am perhaps becoming too much of a photographer. I saw a beautiful flower...and thought 'too bad about the lighting' ha

[arthurking83]

Looking at tripod, the head mechanism looks to be arca swiss type... So(I'm assuming) that the G2 lens will fit onto the head clamp plate without the need for any additional lens foot plate.
(note that many lenses do need this additional lens foot plate to mount to the tripod.

USB dongle is Tamrons version of Sigmas USB dongle. I'ts called Tap in or Tap-In .. or something.
You connect it to lens, and can do firmware updates, and you can tweak lens to suit your personal style.
The other tweak that can be important is focus tune.
Some cameras have the ability to fine tune focus accuracy, but for zoom lenses this is mostly useless. On a Nikon it is anyhow!.

So if you find that the G2 lens slightly misfocuses, you connect it to PC, load the Tamron lens software and it gives you the ability to set focus a bit forward or back to make it more accurate and hence sharper IQ.

This is the main reason I suggest the 80-200AF-D lens is not ideal. The one I had backfocused enough to annoy me mostly.
My Tamron 28-75/2.8 AF-D type lens also did this. Note that AF-D means a screw driven focus system.
The problem with AF-D is that the focus relies heavily on the camera(a mechanism) to focus properly.
The Tamron lens wasn't a [problem in the end as the amount of misfocus was easily countered by moving the focus ring a very minuscule amount to counter the misfocus .. and it worked well.
The mechanical nature of the AF system had a very minuscule amount of slack to take up and that's what the Tamron needed.

The Nikon lens on the other hand was hard locked to it's focus position. You couldn't tweak it even a nano-smidge. You had to unlock the AF with a stupid manual ring thing, and then move focus, but then it was totally unlocked and you couldn't move it that minuscule amount like the Tamron lens.
Overall a PITA to get sharp focus on most things .. flowers people etc.
Then came the Tamron 70-200/2.8 that I got and AF was spot on

Lastly: if you saw a flower and thought that the light was 'bad' .. then you probably need a polariser filter to go with that new lens.

So:
Tammy G2 @ $1500
Tamron Tap-in, USB dock at about $100 or so(double check that price .. I just guessed) so maybe $125 at most. Just make sure it's a Nikon version of the device
77mm CPL .. Marumi brand is very good, and cheap. About $75... and no Chinese manufacturer copies them and rips them off, so the chances are if you buy a Marumi, chances are that you get a Marumi made CPL.. the same CAN'T be said of many high priced brand names.

$(1500+100-125+75) = $1675-1700.

[Cage]

And what is this USB dongle?

Google 'Tamron tap-in console' for full details, but basically it is a USB device that allows you to attach your lens to you computer to adjust auto-focus, update firmware etc. Tamron (and Sigma) are the only manufacturers offering this doodad for selected lens. Most, if not all, current cameras have in-camera focus adjustment.

re Tripod: I personally wouldn't trust my gear on your tripod, even more so with an unstable leg. I gave you a link above to a Manfrotto that would do the job. Don't underestimate the value of a stable tripod in your imaging set-up. Even a slight breeze can set up vibrations in a flimsy, lightweight tripod.

re Lens: I'm going to re-iterate what I've already said. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the G1 version of the 70-200 lens. I had one, I'd buy another. So the G2 has the tap-in console compatibility and a new exterior, but honestly I doubt whether I could pick any performance or IQ differences.

Depending on your budget I'd suggest:

1. Keeping the D5500, buying the G1 version, and a new tripod, and you will have a set-up to produce outstanding images

2. Buy the D610 and the G1 version (Tannin gave you the DWI link to it and is a satisfied customer) and a new tripod, my pick.

3. Go for the G2 and be happy with the latest and greatest, and buy a new tripod

Did I mention a new tripod?

[Goatch]

And as everyone will agree LOL , buy a S/H Nikon 70-200 2.8 VR11 , superb lens which is a cracker on DX and FX , use mine on D7200 , D700 and D800 and you won't go wrong , and as mentioned should be in the 1500 range S/H

[arthurking83]

.....

Did I mention a new tripod?

Note enough!

you missed:

4. buy a new tripod




** at least get the dodgy leg sorted before you go mounting expensive lenses on it again.

[Ilovebokeh]

ok, purchased G2 through eglobal (via this website.)

*fingers crossed.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...for_nikon.html

Will buy this tap in thing - hopefully easy to use as I have no idea. Any video tutorials please?

Also best value 77m filter please - I love long exposure shots and usually need to reduce light.

will look for 77mm polariser/filter...Marumi brand

I have a nice one for my 18-50 mm lens that I can twist to lighten/darken and provide versatility. What is the best value one-size-fits-all for my 77mm G2 telephoto lens fit please?

eg.

no idea of the differences between:

https://www.amazon.com/Marumi-Super-...2%3A2661618011

and

https://www.amazon.com/Marumi-Antist...2%3A2661618011



Any suggestions -


THANK YOU!!!

Simultaneously scared and excited

P.S tripod issue noted. I hate to write off the $300 so will be more careful until I can upgrade.

[Cage]

Congrats on the purchase. Looking forward to seeing some photos.

[Ilovebokeh]

Congrats on the purchase. Looking forward to seeing some photos.

Pressure is on.

This is my only photo on the site so far - feel free to constructively critique.

I only had my Nikon kit lens. I would have loved to blur the background and just make the tree the subject. The composition is tough though as I don't know how to 'crop' the image for maximum effect (I know how, but not what.) Eg. Should I have just taken the roots? one root? Just the trunk? Cut the leaves? Angles? etc?

http://www.ausphotography.net.au/for...98#post1426198

[arthurking83]

.... The composition is tough though as I don't know how to 'crop' the image for maximum effect (I know how, but not what.) Eg. Should I have just taken the roots? one root? Just the trunk? Cut the leaves? Angles? etc?...

composition is hard. '
it's hard to learn, and hard to teach. It just comes from within(I think) it's what you want to convey to the world. I don't think anyone can teach you a composition style. You discover it as you explore photography with every exposure .. good and bad. Don't just delete the bad ones too tho.
I use mine to learn what not to do again. I do eventually delete them, but after a bit of a clean up at the start of a new year.
I store my images on a yearly basis and then using other directory structures .. but the main directory heading is year.
At the start of every new year(or thereabouts) I sift back through them all. I look at them, rate any that I havent' rated, try to keyword them, and basically manage them.
I then filter them by rating. All the below par(deletable) images are then Shift-deleted.

What you wanted to achieve in that image can be done, but it needs work, or $s.
The other alternative, I don't like to use, is pseudo photographic processing. ie. shopping in some gaussian blur into the background.

some ways to possibly get some blur in that image:
1. get an ultra ultra wide lens.
technical point. Shorter focal lengths make it harder to get shallow DOF .. unless you're using large formats. And full frame is usually not large enough. Problem is, UWA lenses for larger formats are impossible to find.
Say you had a 14mm lens on a full frame camera, and it had a f/2.8 aperture to boot. You'd get really close to the root system, focus a bit closer than the focus point you really wanted and shot wide open at f/2.8.
A similar lens to consider would be the Tokina 11-16/2.8 which is an APS-C lens. I've had the chance to play with an old model a long time ago and it's a good lens .. definitely worth the money. And don't let anyone tell 'ya that f/2.8 on an UWA lens is wasted .. it ain't. Just learn how to use it well.

You can even do that9blur) with your 18-55 lens to a point. Just that the equiv 28mm FOV is far from what you get from an UWA lens.

2. use a stitched panorama method.
Once again with your 18-55 lens, because it's FOV is much more narrow than an UWA lens, you shoot a series of images in row across and a column down, and you have a set of image that can be stitched together to make an UWA simulated image.
You will get massive distortions if you stand in the one spot and rotate around a single point. but they can also be dealt with too. Keep aperture wide open, and focus close up as you can.
The trick is to do this pano, with the lens focused closely on some subject matter, and when you move the camera to capture the rest of the image for that wide FOV scenery .. you mustn't allow the camera to refocus for the other images. That is, the peripheral stitch images should be out of focus, to give that bokeh look.

3. Do as you did before, and use the previously mentioned Gaussian blur method in Ps. You can paint it in as you need, but it's hard to do 'just right'.

[Ilovebokeh]

Hi,

Any help on the filter please?

[arthurking83]

Personally I wouldn't worry 'bout it too much.
(in fact I'm a heavy user of filtering, but not ND's as such)

Camera/lens can help you achieve slow shutter shooting itself.

Set ISO to ISO100. Set aperture to f/16 or f/22 if need be.
Some will argue that diffraction will affect IQ, but the reality is this is pretty much nonsense as the filter will affect sharpness as much as diffraction will. Also, some movement in many slow shutter situations(like trees swaying, water moving.. etc).

A CPL will probably get you another stop of light loss as well.

I'd say start with the basics, don't shoot at high noon .. earlier/later in the day ... etc.
If you are stuck in that you can only find the time to do this during the brightest part of the day then I reckon find a cheap enough filter that does what you want/need.

I have a couple of thousand dollars worth of filters and filter accessories, and of all that only the one ND filter which cost me about $20(IIRC).
The only lens it fits(and was acquired for!) is my 50mm f/1.2. And the only reason I did get this one lens was to use the lens at f/1.2 with the lowest ISO I could manage .. and in bright light on a bright subject, I needed 1/32000s shutter speed.
At 1/8000s I over exposed by +2Ev.
ie. the only reason I got it was that I wanted the shallow DOF of f/1.2 but then became shutter speed limited at the fastest end!

If you can describe the slow/long shutter situations you're interested in doing, maybe we can describe an alternative scenario without you spending money on a filter(for now).

Also an important other point is, do you have plans for any other lenses .. eg. UWA and suchlike.
Reason I ask is that I think you've shown an interest in the Tamron 24-70 VC lens too
If so, then be aware that it needs an 82mm filter.

The important point here being that if you have plans for a 24-70VC and also want to use this same filter type for long shutter photography with it too .. then there's no point getting a 77mm filter for the 70-200 G2 lens and that filter now not fitting the 24-70 lens!

You're best off getting the 82mm version which fits the 24-70 lens and then a cheap $1 step down ring for the 82mm filter to fit the 77mm 70-200 lens.

Hope that makes sense.

This is why I generally explain to folks that a more careful and considered approach is the best way to buying stuff.