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Thread: Lenses for Canon EOS 7D?

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    Member TL88's Avatar
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    Lenses for Canon EOS 7D?

    Hi All

    yes I know an old camera but ive been told it should be good for a beginner such as my self to start on?

    I have a few questions?

    Should newer lenses fit old models eg do lenses have a standard attachment?

    I have an 1855 lens for it atm.

    Im wanting to capture animals both stationary and moving. Also (I don't know what category this fits into) but street life. Also some architecture and how the light bounces off things including people within the buildings.

    Anyway, what would be a good 2nd lens to go for?

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    Ausphotography Regular John King's Avatar
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    TL, the 7D is a fine camera. Anything made since about 2003 can take fantastic pictures. I have several images taken with my 5 MPx E-1 (2003) printed at A2 size on fine art paper. They are all but indistinguishable from those taken with my 10 MPx E-510 and 12 MPx E-30. Need to use a 4x magnifying glass to see the slight differences.

    Lenses are another matter. I cannot advise you on specific Canon lenses, but I can advise you to buy the best quality weather and dust sealed lens/lenses that you can afford.

    Crop camera lenses and 135 format lenses may share the same mount within a camera brand, but they are different in other important ways.
    Regards, john

    Galleries: http://canopuscomputing.com.au/gallery2/v/main-page/


    My galleries contain all sorts of stuff, not just some pretty pictures.

    ILCs: E-M1 MkII; E-M1; E-30; E-510; E-1
    Digital lenses: 14-42 EZ; 12-50 macro; f/4 12-100 Pro; 40-150R; f/2.8 25 pancake; f/2 50 macro; f/4 7~14; 11~22; 14~42; 14~45; 14~54 MkII; 40~150 MkI; 40~150 MkII; 50~200 MkI; EX-25; EC-14


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    In Training MarkChap's Avatar
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    Unfortunately you are not going to get 1 lens to cover everything you want to do - ahh the joys of the photography bug

    Your nature is going to require a long lens, 400mm - 600mm ish
    Street - a lot of people use 35mm - 50mm for that, so your 18-55 should be good

    As for the mount ALL, and only, Canon EF and EF-s and 3rd party lenses designed to fit the EF mount will fit the 7D
    Buy the best you can afford, will do you well into the future
    Smoke Alarms Save Lives, Install One Today
    I shoot Canon
    Cheers, Mark


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    Arch-Σigmoid Ausphotography Regular ameerat42's Avatar
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    As for where to place things for posting, ask self what is the main purpose of the picture.
    If the play of light on the buildings, then architecture, people in it or not.

    There's nothing wrong with the 7D.

    A hint (mainly to avoid the incorrect placement of carts and horses): learn to use what you've got till
    you know it backwards. You're a beginner; no amount of gear is going to help you yet. Try to discern
    with practice what you need by finding out what you're trying to achieve. It also eliminates a lot of
    arm-waving and pocket emptying
    CC, Image editing OK.

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    A royal pain in the bum! arthurking83's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TL88 View Post
    .....

    Anyway, what would be a good 2nd lens to go for?
    Define a price point and the answers will come with more specificity!

    eg. if you only have a couple of hundred dollars to spend .. I'd look at the Sigma 70-300 f/4 -5.6 lenses for your camera. $150-300 .. a reasonable lens for the money.
    Can be good enough to give you a feel for what focal lengths you prefer to use.

    if you have $3K to spend, then by all means .. a 70-200/2.8 IS would be the most obvious choice for a bit of extra reach fast shutter speeds and so forth.

    But what if you don't shoot much beyond about 100mm??
    What if you tend to be at the longest end of the focal length range all the time? .. if that's the case, then a 100-400mm lens would be the better option.
    Nikon D800E, D300, D70s
    {Nikon} -> 50/1.2 : 500/8(CPU'd) : 105/2.8VR Micro : 180/2.8ais : 105mm f/1.8ais : 24mm/2ais
    {Sigma}; ->10-20/4-5.6 : 50/1.4 : 12-24/4.5-5.6II : 150-600mm|S
    {Tamron}; -> 17-50/2.8 : 28-75/2.8 : 70-200/2.8 : 300/2.8 SP MF : 24-70/2.8VC


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    Member Morgo's Avatar
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    The 7D is a fine camera.

    You can use the 18-55 for street life and architecture. Upgrading to the 17-55 2.8 wouldn't hurt or grabbing some fast primes.
    If you wanted wider the Tokina 11-16 f2.8 is a good lens on the 7D

    What budget do you have for a wildlife lens? Around $1k will get something adequate such as a 150-600

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    Member Thor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TL88 View Post
    Im wanting to capture animals both stationary and moving. Also (I don't know what category this fits into) but street life. Also some architecture and how the light bounces off things including people within the buildings.

    Anyway, what would be a good 2nd lens to go for?
    I would look at a 70-300 f4.5-5.6 as a budget option for animals that you cant quite get near. You can go longer but your looking at 3-4x the price for a lens like the SIGMA AF 150-600mm 5-6.3 DG OS. Again it not a bad thing spending cash on good lenses but how deep are your pockets. Also assuming that your shutter speed are fast then those apertures will only let you capture decent pics in full sunlight. forget about evening light.

    For budget wide angles for some architecture there's the Canon EF-S 10-18mm f/4.5-5.6 IS STM. You can fit loads into the frame. Its as wide as you would want on a crop sensor camera. Though some like the sigma offerings. All depends on the apertures you want to shoot at also.

    My favorite all round lens for my old 50d is the canon 15-85mm f3.5-5.6 IS. It has produced some quality pics and wont blow the bank.

    Good Luck with it..

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    First dub question

    can you break this down

    70-300 f4.5-5.6

    size of something - fstop?

    fstop being Aperture: basically a variable sized hole in the camera lens where light shines through and is cut off by the shutter

    or something like that

    - - - Updated - - -

    Apparently a whole Stop A whole Stop change in aperture lets in either half as much light or twice as much light. On your lens (or in the view finder, or maybe on an LCD menu on your camera) you typically see numbers like ƒ1.8, ƒ2.8, ƒ4, ƒ5.6, ƒ8, ƒ11, ƒ16, and ƒ22. These are whole Stops which, as previously explained, lets in twice as much or half as much light compared to the Stop beside it

    Oh im confused lol
    .


    Last edited by TL88; 04-03-2016 at 10:01am.

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    Ausphotography Regular John King's Avatar
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    Gidday TL

    70-300 = zoom lens with focal length (FL) range of 70mm to 300mm.

    f/4.5-f/5.6 = aperture range from widest FL to longest FL, i.e. the lens has a variable maximum aperture.

    e.g. I have an f/2.8-3.5 50-200mm zoom for my cameras.

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    Arch-Σigmoid Ausphotography Regular ameerat42's Avatar
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    Yes, see! Not so "dumb" after all

    The first part refers to the focal length range of this zoom lens: from F=70mm to F=300mm.

    The 2nd part is the Maximum Aperture (opening of the lens diaphragm) EXPRESSED as an F-stop.
    F-stop is the ratio of Focal Length divided by Aperture.
    That is, the maximum aperture gives an F-stop of 4.5 to 5.6 over this zoom range, and all other F-stops
    are affected the same way over the zoom range.

    Such info is in the Library.

    Distinguish between F-stop and Aperture, as they are not exactly the same. The F-stop is a measure of
    the aperture in use. Mostly, Aperture itself is less discussed than F-stop. You will hear such as:
    "...pretty small aperture...", "...pretty large aperture...", "...shooting wide open..."
    F-stops "run backwards" to actual aperture: the larger the F-stop number (like f/16) the smaller the aperture.
    So for the lens above, f/4.5 is "wide open".

    F-stop also indicates a set theoretical light intensity that reaches the sensor. Won't describe any farther at this stage
    as it's widely available online.
    Last edited by ameerat42; 04-03-2016 at 10:17am.

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    Thankyou very much! Im just reading more now

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    Arch-Σigmoid Ausphotography Regular ameerat42's Avatar
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    I suppose it's apparent, but the description above for "f/16" actually means
    1/16th of f, where f is the focal length.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Getting back to the subject of lenses for your camera, I meant to say somewhere that I have the
    Sigma 70-300 DG Lens. There are two versions listed, and one is an APO(chromatic) lens. From what I
    can see, they are both fairly cheap. Here are two links with UD$ prices, but look in Oz for the same.
    Non-APO: http://www.sigmaphoto.com/lenses/tel...f4-56-dg-macro

    APO: http://www.sigmaphoto.com/lenses/tel...6-apo-dg-macro
    (ODDLY the specs for each say max magnification - macro - is 1:4, but mine goes to 1:2, or half life size.)

    Now, what do I think about it?
    (Well, I paid $50 second hand.) It was my "mostly on the camera lens" for a good while. I thought its
    image quality (henceforth IQ) was not too bad for what I needed. BUT ONE thing I have since found
    is that I CAN'T get very good shots withOUT optical stabilisation any more (ie, OS, IS, VR). This is not the
    fault of the lens, as it happens on any of the old lenses I use, esp on telephoto settings.

    If you go for one of these lenses be aware of that limitation.
    Last edited by ameerat42; 04-03-2016 at 10:59am.

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    Thankyou very much for your feedback!

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    Arch-Σigmoid Ausphotography Regular ameerat42's Avatar
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    A local price for the APO version: https://sigmaphoto.com.au/lenses/70-...6-apo-dg-macro

    (Remember the lack of OS!!!)
    Last edited by ameerat42; 04-03-2016 at 11:04am.

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    So this isnt good as it has a lack of OS

    What does APO mean?

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    Arch-Σigmoid Ausphotography Regular ameerat42's Avatar
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    If you can hold it steady, it's good. I can't
    Look up "apochromatic".
    Last edited by ameerat42; 04-03-2016 at 11:17am.

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    So im looking for apochromatic lenses just with more OS

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    Ausphotography Regular John King's Avatar
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    APO = apochromat = without chromatic aberration (coloured fringing around objects under certain lighting conditions).
    Often wishful thinking rather than an absolute statement of fact ...

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    Where did my thread on lenses go?

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by ameerat42 View Post
    Can't help you with tripods, but in this case you'd best be looking for a lens with OS, IS, or VR,
    as discussed in your thread on lenses.
    Could you explain what OS, IS or VR stand for?

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    Ausphotography Regular John King's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TL88 View Post

    Could you explain what OS, IS or VR stand for?
    OS = optical stabilization

    IS = image stabilization

    VR = vibration reduction (Nikon's term for the above)

    These all mean the same thing, ILIS = In Lens Image Stabilization

    An alternative system available on some brands/bodies is IBIS = In Body Image Stabilization, available on some Sony, Pentax, Panasonic and Olympus bodies. Some of these combine both IBIS and ILIS in a synchronised manner. Some offer either/or.

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