I just discovered this morning that AP has a photo editor built in, here:
http://www.ausphotography.net.au/for...page=photoedit
Normally accessible via the AP Extras menu ...
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Thanks useful information: 10
I just discovered this morning that AP has a photo editor built in, here:
http://www.ausphotography.net.au/for...page=photoedit
Normally accessible via the AP Extras menu ...
Last edited by John King; 16-02-2016 at 4:44pm. Reason: Spelling ...
I haven't read everything in this thread but wonder if you get ACR (Adobe Camera Raw) if that would achieve what you want. Think it might. It doesn't come attached to CS2 (as it did with later CS versions) but I think you can get it as a download that works with CS2. Googling is up to you. (think AM did this on a link farmmax provided? Any help there AM?)
AFAIK, ACR did come with CS2. IIRC, the last version of ACR that works with CS2 is v.5.7, But the Adobe web site will tell you this.Originally Posted by Mark L
To check the version of ACR installed, go to HELP > About Plugins > Camera Raw.
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Thanks for that ( wow now that's a Twang) I found some other good stuff on the same page. "colour correcting and sharpening" By digitalassassin, was very informative.They'd be using CS6 or CC (creative cloud). Some are narrated rather hastily, I've found.
In a search, actually use "CS2" There might be some useful ones about still.
Eg: searching "smart sharpen in cs2"
gives this, amongst others: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pOUCI2k2Hso
(Clear, but cripes! - What a TWANG!)
- - - Updated - - -
Abode camera RAW......... My computer is getting Full !
Adobe Camera Raw might be a waste of space for that version of Photoshop and your camera.
I'd say use View-or-CaptureNX for the raw processing. It's 1st party and (IMO) guaranteed to
give proper results. Use Pshop then for everything you can't do in V-CNX. Why rely on 3rd party apps
for the basic raw conversion?
CC, Image editing OK.
What I find REALLY helpful in Photoshop Essentials, other than the step-by-step instructions and photos showing the effect of the changes, is the ability to have the tute open in another window alongside the Photoshop window.
As you work through processing the image you just scroll down on the tute window as you go and you don't miss anything, as I seemed to do when using a video tute.
A sample from one of the tutes.
PSE.JPG
Cheers
Kev
Nikon D810: D600 (Astro Modded): D7200 and 'stuff', lots of 'stuff'
Threadstarter
Kev. A great idea
ameerat42. Glad you said that as I already use ViewNX2 and then off to PhotoScape to change to Jpeg.( I know I must have said something wrong here! I can hear it now "just process in CS2")
To me you should be able to:
1. In ViewNX, convert raw to jpeg. THAT IS: adjust the raw file and Save As a jpeg.
(This does not change your raw file itself. It just looks that way while you're in the program.)
2. Open CS2 and do any further work on that jpeg that you cannot do in ViewNX. Save new edits as a new file.
You might as well realise that in Photoshop, if you:
Just use "Save" you will overwrite the file you are working on with the new edits you have done. Ie, it saves to the SAME filename.
But if you:
Use instead "Save as..." then you can give the file a new name - THAT IS, you make up a new file and you still have the original jpeg you first opened.
Hope this is clear.
Of course, if you do "muck it up", you can go back in the History of your edits to fix things up.
Am, while I agree with most of what you have said, I strongly recommend that people use a lossless file format such as 16 bit TIFF, not as 8 bit JPEG under any circumstances.
And while I agree with you, John, I don't think it is necessary to do so ALL the time.
Many well-exposed images end up well as a straight conversion to 8-bit from raw. Not all,
I know, but there's no use (IMO) introducing unnecessary steps in PP.
^ then make it 8 bit TIFFs ....
Disk storage is cheap; data loss is irretrievable ...
I save my A2 files for printing as TIFF-16 (or PSD-16) with a ProPhotoRGB colour space - around 200-250 MB each ...
Wow, this thread is doing my head in.
Hints. ----
Get rid of A$obe products.
Ignore S. Kelby, apparently he has gone bankrupt ( again )
Use a decent editing program -----
If your aim for your images is print ( where all good photos should be) simply do your raw adjustments with a proper program and the ship them off to a reputable printer as either 16 bit tiffs or 8 bit jpegs at the size of your choice.
AndrewNikon, Fuji, Nikkor, Sigma, Tamron, Tokina and too many other bits and pieces to list.
Gidday Andrew
Perhaps somewhat unrealistic in the wider world. But they have got the last of my money ...
The book I mentioned is the only one of his that I would recommend, for the reason stated. I cannot see the relevancy of his personal financial affairs.Ignore S. Kelby, apparently he has gone bankrupt ( again )
Agreed. I will be looking longest and hardest at Capture One when my 2x copies each of CS5 and CS6 Premium cease to support the cameras I use.Use a decent editing program -----
I enquired about what they did from a few of the top pro printers in Melbourne, and on the basis of their responses bought an Epson R3880. This way, I get the prints I want, not the prints they want to give me ...If your aim for your images is print ( where all good photos should be.
Last edited by John King; 17-02-2016 at 9:53pm.
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Yep. That's about it. Keep Photoscape for animated gifs
Main thing is to get your raws converted easily to bit-mapped files (such as 8 or 16 bit jpeg or tiff) as required
for (any) further PP. That is then done in Photoshop.
Gidday Andrew
You've got it by the throat
Just a note, only to help and speed up the process a little here:
If you use ViewNX2 for your raw files, don't convert them to anything.
Edit the basics(exposure WB, whatever) and save it! Even tho this does append the original raw file, it's not an issue. You can always undo the edits by simply twiddling the specific edit again and saving it.
eg. if you open the camera created raw and adjust WB, say from Auto in camera to Daylight or something .. save the NEF file.
if you now want to go back to the original looking Auto WB look, go the the WB tool in Adjustments and select Recorded Value in the list(at the very top). Save it and your NEF is like it was from the camera again.
The point here is not to do stuff you don't really need too!
Anyhow, I recommend that you only make edits to the NEF file, and then just save it. it's quick and easy, and always reversible.
The other recommendation I tell folks to do at this point is to add some (any) tag data in the ITPC field in VNX2 as well. This comes under the Metadata tab if you scroll down a touch.
The reason for this is that if you are new and as yet still a bit unsure of where you want to go with your photography, having the tag data embedded in the NEF file is important(actually will eventually be vital!!) to maintaining your archive and keeping track of it all.
From there and now into Adobe products, you don't really need to save/save as or convert anything(in VNX2).
The process is far more simple.
At the top of ViewNX's tool bar is an Open With tool button.(actually, it may not be there for you, as I think they change it from version to version)
if it's not there already, it's easy to set up.
Go to Edit - Options(way up in the top most tool bar)
In Options on the LHS look for the Open With Application section.
Here you can set up VNX2 to directly open any image with the app of your choice.
I have my exif viewers set up here, and FSViewer, Windows Photo Gallery, and so forth.
To locate your preferred software just navigate to the exe file of the app of your choice, just as you naturally do with Windows open with option.
Once you have done this, you have a quick access way to send the NEF file to your preferred app(in this case CS2).
The icon to do this probably won't appear in the top tool icon area. This is an easy fix too!
Right click the tool icon area and select [customise].
In the small pop up tool box (around the middle of the list) you should see a listing for your preferred app(ie. CS2 or Photoshop, or whatever it will be called) selct it by enabling the tick mark.
Now in the toolbar Icon area you will see the Open with CS Icon. If it only shows cryptic Icons with no text, you can edit that specific option as well by rightclicking the area again and selecting the Icon with text option.
What this does(this open with option) is to automagically create a 16bit TIFF file which is sent directly into the app of your choice.
Note that it doesn't save the 16 bit tiff file in the folder where your images are located(unless you place your images in the cache folder).
ps. another tip is to place the cache folder area on a separate drive(if you have one) .. or if you don't have a separate drive then place it in a folder you created that easy to navigate too.
I make a specific Cache folder that I use for all cache areas with all programs(where I can). Makes it easy to go to it and remove all files after the collection of all this useless data!
From there you just have to learn how to use PS .. and good luck with that!
Finally: if you can get it to work for 'ya .. try Nikon's CaptureNX-D too. I find that I'm having trouble getting it to work efficiently, but it's basically a souped up version of VNX2 with a few more tweaks under it's belt that VNX2 is just not able to do.
BUT on the downside of using CNX-D is that it's incapable of adding tag metadata directly into the raw file(like VNX2 can do) .. and this is my primary objective with my raw file.
So in the end I have to run VNX2, even tho it's tools are limited and Nikon will no longer support it. But CNX-D is their future plan to conquer the world of photo editing!
Nikon D800E, D300, D70s
{Nikon}; -> 50/1.2 : 500/8 : 105/2.8VR Micro : 180/2.8 ais : 105mm f/1.8 ais : 24mm/2 ais
{Sigma}; ->10-20/4-5.6 : 50/1.4 : 12-24/4.5-5.6II : 150-600mm|S
{Tamron}; -> 17-50/2.8 : 28-75/2.8 : 70-200/2.8 : 300/2.8 SP MF : 24-70/2.8VC
{Yongnuo}; -> YN35/2N : YN50/1.8N
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arthurking83.... Fantastic I will be looking into all the advice about ViewNX2. I will be sticking with it and will not even look at CaptureNx. Only due to the fact that one must stop somewhere and just get on with the job with the tools one has.
In the corner of VNX2 it has convert button with gives me a choice of Jpeg,16bitTiff,etc so if I pick 16 Bit tiff then save it to a file . Then click on it it goes straight to CS2 WOO HOO a short cut that works
Great work everybody, I know this post has morphed into "War and Piece " (spelling Intended) But you must agree it has covered a heap of really good stuff I for one have learned so much. Of cause the downside is my wife has left me and the dog has put on 5kilos!!!!!
Cheers
Andrew
Good onya, Andrew
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