Canon 10-18mm

[William W]

You are welcome.

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. . . I have been using the Warp tool in PS (CS2) to squeeze in the edges more relative to the middle zones.

I’ve used that too. I have the same problematic issues as you described.

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I had used tat filter before, but I will revisit it now.

The levelling and squareness of the Camera’s Viewpoint is important, if you just want use the barrel / pincushion slider CS2.

So for example, in the sample image that I posted, I was careful to square the camera and also achieve the Camera Elevation to best balance the barrelling in the VERTICAL AXIS of the FRAMING of the shot.

I suggest that you investigate ‘Fisheye-Hemi’, especially if your are using an 8mm lens on APS-C Format it should (my understanding of the theory) work well for you. (I haven’t de-fished 8mm used on APS-C).


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Her skills are listed as intermediate William. I expect she knows how to use a CPL or ND filter.

Maybe and maybe not: I don’t know. I did not assume anything in that regard one way or the other.

However, given that another commentator (yourself) had advised, fait accompli, that an ND and GND filters were essential for the tasks described and lenses that were being discussed, (advice to which I did not agree): it was then necessary to outline exactly why I held that opinion. Also it was necessary present the major traps that the OP might come across, should she purchase the filters and not understand all the nuances of using them.

Especially if the OP chooses to use a 15/2.8 - the filters simply won’t fit or it will be a very difficult task for her.

There are many other reasons too, for my commentary, not the least of which (addressing your last): I’ve come across many Students and Photographers who think they know quite a lot, but don’t, and as already mentioned the OP appears to be on a budget and good quality CPL and GradND are not inexpensive items; and there are usually quite viable alternatives because most Landscape Scenes fall well within the DR of the EOS 60D.

WW