50D problem - no power

[alextdel]

I took my 50d to Cameras Direct on the Gold Coast (highly recommend for knowledgeable service). They checked out that it wasn't a battery issue then gave me the contact number of a Canon repairer (ex Canon tech). He told me on the phone that the camera isn't worth repairing (dc-dc fault or main board fault.) The camera has been used lightly, cared for and I purchased it new in 2009.
Is this a reasonable amount of time for a dslr of this brand/type to last? I'm wondering whether it's worth spending more, less or the same given my experience. Any ideas, comments or opinions welcome.

[ricktas]

Anything can break down at any time. How long they last depends on so many factors that giving an ideal 'lifetime' is impossible. However if the main board is the cause, Canon are correct. You can buy a 50D on ebay for $200-$300 dollars. Probably less than the cost of paying to repair yours.

[alextdel]

Thanks Rick, I'm probably looking at a 70D as a replacement, especially given the lenses I've got.
Cheers

[enVision]

70D is an excellent camera. Now you have an excuse to upgrade haha

[jev]

Is this a reasonable amount of time for a dslr of this brand/type to last?

Well, I still have a D30 and a 10D in working order...

Anyway, I'ld go for a 70D for sure if I wanted a replacement. Or perhaps a step up to the 7DII once it hits the market (probably will be introduced at Photokina next month).

[alextdel]

Sorry to take so long to reply. I spent more time considering a replacement than is healthy! I have eventually decided on a 6D as my main frustration with the 50D was noise - even when in reasonable light, even when exposing to the right etc.
I have never had a full frame camera and I will never be able to justify the cost of a 5D Mk (anything), hence the 6D - I'll looking forward to it.
My lenses will be ok - my only concern is a Tokina 12 - 28 that I really enjoyed using on the 50D. The internet says it's usable on a full frame from about 19 mm. If it isn't then I will probably get a Tokina or Canon FF wide zoom - but I will wait and see how my existing Tokina handles indoor and landscape shots.

[arthurking83]

.....
My lenses will be ok - my only concern is a Tokina 12 - 28 that I really enjoyed using on the 50D. The internet says it's usable on a full frame from about 19 mm. If it isn't then I will probably get a Tokina or Canon FF wide zoom - but I will wait and see how my existing Tokina handles indoor and landscape shots.

From what I understand of most third party Canon crop lenses .. is that they are more like EF mount as opposed to EF-S mount types.

That is, even tho it's a crop format lens, the mount type is suitable for EF cameras.
This would be the only thing to watch .. more so that the usability of it in terms of picture circle it projects!

As a side story, after I got my full frame (Nikon) camera, I had enough lenses to keep my happy on the whole, but couldn't decide on which UWA I wanted to replace my trusty and heavily used Sigma 10-20mm.
This went on for about a year .. maybe more. And until I eventualy made my decision, I just used the crop format Sigma on my full frame camera .. both in crop mode, but more usually in full frame mode.

The most heavily vignetted section of the frame is easily cropped out in PP .. but what may be surprising is that you get more image as a result than if you chose crop mode anyhow.
So the effect is that while I never got the full 10mm rectilinear FOV from the lens(other than lots of black at the periphery) .. the 15mm equivalent FOV in crop mode turned out to be more like 13 or 14mm FOV if I cropped manually.
Also, as the image circle is true to it's word .. ie literally a circle, you have more image available at the top and bottom of the frame to crop too.
In the end I made quite a few 1:1 format crops when using this lens on the full frame camera than I normally otherwise would have.

As long as it fits the new camera(that is physically) .. I wouldn't concern myself with it's usable field of view .. you make that up as you go


good luck with it all.

edit:
I forgot to mention too. As a recommendation for a full frame UWA lens .. the Siggy 12-24 II is a pretty good option, which is what I eventually ended up with ...... a year later!

[alextdel]

Great info, thanks.
Does the the Sigma 12-24 allow for filters?

[enVision]

Can't go wrong with the 6D. I just recently picked one up and it's an impressive machine. You're going to love it.

[arthurking83]

Great info, thanks.
Does the the Sigma 12-24 allow for filters?

If you mean slide on square filters .... not exactly ... but there are easy and cheap-ish workarounds.

From my (current)observations I've yet to find a need for a polariser for it.
For blue skies, the lens seems to have a built in almost polarising effect at the wide(12mm) end.

It does have a lens cap that is semi made to fit 82mm screw on filters, and on full frame cameras it only works at the 24mm end. This lens cap is made in two parts, an aluminium slip on section and a centre pinch lens cap. If you fit the slip on section over the lens, this then gives you the ability to screw on any 82mm filter type you wish(but remmber only for use at 24mm on full frame.
The idea of it is that it works as a proper filter holder for APS-C(or smaller) camera sensors. So in APS-C mode, you do have allowance for fitting filters of almost any type.

One day I'll post some info about my cheap-ish grad filter holder adapter for it(for full frame).

Things to note about the lens. It's super sharp up to about halfway into the frame, at the halfway point in the image, stopping down will produce better IQ, than if set to wide open.
The very far corners never really produce excellent sharpness detail, but on a lens so extreme, you'd expect this anyhow.
But if you're pixel peeping at the very far corners of the frame from a 12mm lens that produces a 120° FOV, you have to question your motivation, more than the the lenses ability!!