Shooting in low light - people

[hus]

You might be surprised, but remember for the onboard noise reduction to be applied to the raw image you'll have to use canon's DPP for converting to jpg.
Good luck and let us know the results

[Mark L]

So hus, do you reckon the in camera noise reduction works better than doing it in DPP later?

[Alpacamike]

I can’t give any advice as I to have problems taking photos in low light, but this has been one heck of a interesting post.

[hus]

So hus, do you reckon the in camera noise reduction works better than doing it in DPP later?

The noise reduction applied in the camera is applied when processing with DDP, takes out the process of applying noise reduction manually. If you set you onboard noise reduction then DPP will automatically apply that reduction when you are converting to jpg, works for me and I am happy with the results I get.

[Mark L]

Thanks hus. Just wondered if the computer had more power than the camera re NR and therefore was worth taking the time to do it on the computer. Will have a play.
Having said that, I use this for any NR once converted to jpeg .... http://www.imagenomic.com/download.a...duct=noiseware
Last one on the link is free!

[Sdison]

Now we all know why sports shooting is one of the most expensive types of photography! Requiring good high ISO performance, fast long lenses, fast burst rates and fast autofocus are four incredibly expensive things to combine...

I shot at ISO 3200 on my girlfriend's D3100 for a function in low light recently and I was surprised at how salvageable the photos were once I ran the RAWs through Lightroom. I think your propensity for pixel-peeping is holding you back to an extent, followed closely by your equipment. It's a tough trade-off unless your name is Scrooge McDuck.

I don't know if I'm game enough to even try low light sports with amateur kit - it'd probably be enough to give up photography as a hobby. Massive props to you for trying and sticking with it.

[Ms Monny]

Firstly, Hus, what do you mean "you'll have to use canon's DPP for converting to jpg.". I use RAW, then import to LR and sometimes into PS Elements (rarely with my sports ones) and then export as a JPG from LR. Do I need to do anything different to this workflow, if I use onboard Noise Reduction???

Sdison....unfort, my bank balance can NOT allow me to buy any lenses at the moment...and not in the foreseeable future either. Yes, kit lenses, esp the 55-250 are not the best for sport and you really hit the nail on the head by saying "I don't know if I'm game enough to even try low light sports with amateur kit - it'd probably be enough to give up photography as a hobby." I have many times nearly screamed with my results from this *&^% lens!!!!

Might change my nickname to Ms Pixel Peep instead. I will try to get out of the habit of zooming in to 100% and then weeping! LOL

[hus]

Thanks hus. Just wondered if the computer had more power than the camera re NR and therefore was worth taking the time to do it on the computer. Will have a play.
Having said that, I use this for any NR once converted to jpeg .... http://www.imagenomic.com/download.a...duct=noiseware
Last one on the link is free!

Thanks Mark I have tried noiseware as well as noise ninja, but for some reason the onboard reduction method works best for me, I normally take shots in really bad lighting and not having a full frame really makes life hard to get a decent pic.

- - - Updated - - -

Now we all know why sports shooting is one of the most expensive types of photography! Requiring good high ISO performance, fast long lenses, fast burst rates and fast autofocus are four incredibly expensive things to combine...

I shot at ISO 3200 on my girlfriend's D3100 for a function in low light recently and I was surprised at how salvageable the photos were once I ran the RAWs through Lightroom. I think your propensity for pixel-peeping is holding you back to an extent, followed closely by your equipment. It's a tough trade-off unless your name is Scrooge McDuck.

My equipment is a Canon 50D and at first I had a tamron 70-200 f2.8 (great quality but really slow focus motor) then I pasted that onto my son and now I use sigma 70-200 f2.8, faster focus motor but image quality not good as the tamron. My dream quipment is Canon 5D III with a L series lens but I keep on dreaming

I don't know if I'm game enough to even try low light sports with amateur kit - it'd probably be enough to give up photography as a hobby. Massive props to you for trying and sticking with it.

- - - Updated - - -

Firstly, Hus, what do you mean "you'll have to use canon's DPP for converting to jpg.". I use RAW, then import to LR and sometimes into PS Elements (rarely with my sports ones) and then export as a JPG from LR. Do I need to do anything different to this workflow, if I use onboard Noise Reduction???

No what I mean is if the onboard noise reduction is set then DDP will automatically apply it when your converting to jpg, but if you have your setting on high reduction and use LR or any other program then the noise reduction process isn't applied automatically when converting to jpg.
I have tried many programs the latest being Corel's Aftershot which has noise ninja built into it and still I found myself using DDP and camera setting set to high noise reduction. It just seems to work best for me. I should sit down and do a low light shot and put it through different programs so you can see the difference.