User Tag List

Thanks useful information Thanks useful information:  22
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 24

Thread: Lens recommendations.. childrens portraits

  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    24 Dec 2011
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    83
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Lens recommendations.. childrens portraits

    I'm in need of some recommendations please.

    Having spent the better part of this morning trying to take some photographs of my 16mth old daughter, I've come to realise that my 18-55mm el cheapo kit lens just isn't cutting the mustard .. for one thing, my daughter moves very fast so all I get most often is a blur, but she also moves around a lot (as children do) so my lens is always readjusting the focus and of course I've missed some potentially lovely shots.

    I have NO IDEA really of what lens type might best suit in this situation, and I'm hesitant to visit my local camera store by virtue of them trying to sell me the most expensive glass they have that might or might not do the job I'm after IYKIWM.

    So I'm asking the pros! If you can offer some advice by all means please do so
    Shoots using a Canon 1000D with either an 18-55mm or 50 f/1.8mm lens

    Blogging at http://www.stacewyllie.blogspot.com

  2. #2
    Moderately Underexposed I @ M's Avatar
    Join Date
    04 May 2007
    Location
    Marlo, Far East Gippsland
    Posts
    4,897
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Stacey, after a quick look at your blog photos and seeing that you have the 50mm F/1.8 lens I will humbly suggest that it is not the gear preventing you from getting the shots you want.

    I think it is more that you need to become more proficient using the gear that you own, that comes from study, dedication, more study and more dedication plus a heap of practice thrown in for good measure.

    AP is a great resource for learning, all it takes is regular attendance and interest.
    Andrew
    Nikon, Fuji, Nikkor, Sigma, Tamron, Tokina and too many other bits and pieces to list.



  3. #3
    Member
    Join Date
    09 Jan 2013
    Location
    Cessnock
    Posts
    217
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I believe the nifty 50 (which you have listed) is the lens favoured by portrait photographers.

    I have two kids as well (13mo and 3yo) and I know how frustrating it can be, especially if I decide to move around with them. Bryan Peterson does a few good youtbue tutorials talking about shutter speed needed for kids on the move.
    Cass
    I switched my camera off auto in November 2012, and I have been busy reading and learning and practicing ever since.
    My kit is basic: Canon 1000D (two kit lenses) + 50mm f/1.8 + a tripod/monopod + Lightroom4

  4. #4
    Member
    Join Date
    19 Aug 2010
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    628
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Try something with an ultrasonic focusing motor (USM). A good focal length for you would probably be 50mm, the 50mm f/1.4 is a good option, however it has an older type of usm motor; maybe some input is required from someone who owns one as to its focusing speed. You can also try the 85mm f/1.8 which is fast focusing and would compliment the camera and do the job of 'portrait' lens as it is a typical focal laength for protraits. You can pick up the 85mm f/1.8 grey market for ~400, or second hand for ~350. Imo this is quite good price for a nice lens like this.
    1DIII, 5DII, 15mm fish, 24mm ts-e, 35L,135L,200L,400L,mpe-65mm
    Film: eos 300, pentax 6x7

  5. #5
    Arch-Σigmoid Ausphotography Regular ameerat42's Avatar
    Join Date
    18 Sep 2009
    Location
    Nthn Sydney
    Posts
    15,794
    Mentioned
    19 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by I @ M View Post
    Stacey, after a quick look at your blog photos and seeing that you have the 50mm F/1.8 lens I will humbly suggest that it is not the gear preventing you from getting the shots you want.

    I think it is more that you need to become more proficient using the gear that you own, that comes from study, dedication, more study and more dedication plus a heap of practice thrown in for good measure.

    AP is a great resource for learning, all it takes is regular attendance and interest.

    I quite agree. To me also it is not a matter of just "better gear". I would only ask whether you use a flash in your shots? That would help reduce movement.
    Also, get a bit further back with whatever lens you use, that way you will enhance your DOF. Of course, I don't mean across the room or the like, but just enough to NOT
    make the AF work so hard (as you indicate). You can often manage to crop about 50% away from a good shot and have a really good remainder.

    Returning to the focus issue, that should not have to be too much of a concern; so that implies, check your subject distance and try to work out some optimal
    range to work in.

    Am (not a pro, however, as the Q should not need to be restricted to such).
    CC, Image editing OK.

  6. #6
    Administrator ricktas's Avatar
    Join Date
    24 Jun 2007
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    15,411
    Mentioned
    9 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Agree with Andrew. Your 50mm f1.8 is ideally suited to this, so if you are not getting the results you want, it is your technique and settings, not your lens causing the issues. Post a photo so we can see what is happening and then we can give you direct advice as to the real cause.
    "It is one thing to make a picture of what a person looks like, it is another thing to make a portrait of who they are" - Paul Caponigro

    Constructive Critique of my photographs is always appreciated
    Nikon, etc!

    RICK
    My Photography

  7. #7
    Administrator ricktas's Avatar
    Join Date
    24 Jun 2007
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    15,411
    Mentioned
    9 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    to add. Looking at your photos in this thread: http://www.ausphotography.net.au/for...-Miss-Gretchen
    You are shooting on full auto. If you want to get results, you need to get off auto and start being a photographer and taking control of your camera settings. Once you understand how ISO, Shutter Speed and Aperture interact, you will be able to make knowledgeable decisions on the settings that get you the results you seek. Whilst using Auto, you are letting a software programmer in Japan decide how your photos will look. Is that what you want, or would you rather be the one in creative control?
    Last edited by ricktas; 19-01-2013 at 4:24pm.

  8. #8
    As Keen As Mustard NikonNellie's Avatar
    Join Date
    01 Jan 2009
    Location
    North West, Sydney
    Posts
    4,544
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I agree with Andrew also. I use a 50mm f/1.8 for a lot of my portraiture work, its a great lens and I love it. Take the time to learn the relationship between ISO, aperture and shutter speed and you will be well on the way to taking better portrait shots. As Rick said - post up some photos and then we can be a bit more specific in the advice we give you.
    CAMERA: Nikon D800, Nikon D7000
    LENSES: AF Nikkor 50mm f/1.8, Tamron SP AF 90mm F/2.8 Macro, Sigma 10 - 20mm F/4 - 5.6, Sigma 150 - 500mm F/5 - 6.3 APO DG OS, Nikkor 18 - 200mm F/3.5 - 5.6 VRII,
    Sigma 70 - 200mm f/2.8 APO EX DG OS, Tamron SP 24 - 70mm f/2.8 Di VC USD, Sigma 85mm F/1.4 EX DG, Nikkor AF-S 16-35mm F/4 ED VR, Nikkor AF-S 200-500 f/5..6E ED VR
    MY WEBSITES: www.nawimages.com, http://nelliewajzerphotography.smugmug.com/, http://NellieWajzerPhotography.blogspot.com



  9. #9
    Member
    Join Date
    09 Jan 2013
    Location
    Cessnock
    Posts
    217
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by ricktas View Post
    to add. Looking at your photos in this thread: http://www.ausphotography.net.au/for...-Miss-Gretchen
    You are shooting on full auto. If you want to get results, you need to get off auto and start being a photographer and taking control of your camera settings. Once you understand how ISO, Shutter Speed and Aperture interact, you will be able to make knowledgeable decisions on the settings that get you the results you seek. Whilst using Auto, you are letting a software programmer in Japan decide how your photos will look. Is that what you want, or would you rather be the one in creative control?

    Just want to add, by way of encouragement, that I had the same revelation late last year and switched from auto. I join some forums dedicated to portrait photography (full of mummy photographers), but I stumbled onto this site a couple of weeks ago and haven't looked back. Youtube is full of photography tutorials (Bryan Peterson, McCordall are two favourites) which I watch on my phone while putting kids to sleep (during the "they are asleep but if you move they wake" phase). I was completely overwhelmed at first but after a couple of months it has started to make heaps of sense. Still remember the excitement of taking a simple portrait and achieving a nice blurry background (bokeh), knowing I did it intentionally rather then just hit-and-miss after taking a heap of photos.

    I am currently working through the 'new to photography' lesson plan on this website. It is thorough, free, and I can come straight here for help.... Other websites charge hundreds of dollars for the same thing.
    Last edited by alsocass; 19-01-2013 at 5:01pm.

  10. #10
    Today may be the day, Or not !
    Join Date
    31 Jul 2010
    Location
    Perth Northern Suburbs
    Posts
    3,712
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Stacewyllie, can you try different settings whilst they're asleep? My two boys slept whilst the room was lit, all be it not full sunlight, but that adds to the challenge and also your knowledge of the triangle of settings. This may be a good start, try AV or TV modes first, with these modes, set ISO to auto. See what works, and then read the EXIF data, as it will give you a good start for next time. If in TV mode, the longer the shutter duration the more chance of shake, so ISO is critical with aperture.

    Have fun and experiment.

    P.S If you want to buy a specific lens, try thedigitalpicture and look under reviews, them you can look at all the Prime lenses and decide what will work for you. Great source of Canon information.
    Last edited by Roosta; 20-01-2013 at 2:45pm.
    They call me "Blue" it's a red head thing.
    "My Flickr Site"
    Canon Bodies - 1DMk2N + 50D - Lenses - 17-35mm F2.8 L - 24-70mm F2.8 L - 70-200mm F2.8 L - 300mm F4 IS L - Sigma 18-50mm F2.8 - Sigma 10-20mm
    " I Never get tired of looking at our diverse country, even if its through the lens of someone else".
    CC is always appreciated.


  11. #11
    Member
    Threadstarter

    Join Date
    24 Dec 2011
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    83
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by ricktas View Post
    to add. Looking at your photos in this thread: http://www.ausphotography.net.au/for...-Miss-Gretchen
    You are shooting on full auto. If you want to get results, you need to get off auto and start being a photographer and taking control of your camera settings. Once you understand how ISO, Shutter Speed and Aperture interact, you will be able to make knowledgeable decisions on the settings that get you the results you seek. Whilst using Auto, you are letting a software programmer in Japan decide how your photos will look. Is that what you want, or would you rather be the one in creative control?
    I take shots using the 'Tv' mode ... ? My interpretation of full-auto was using the pre-set portrait function on my camera which I've never done.

    Please don't take the comment as being argumentative, I'm simply wanting to clarify my understanding

  12. #12
    Administrator ricktas's Avatar
    Join Date
    24 Jun 2007
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    15,411
    Mentioned
    9 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by stacewyllie View Post
    I take shots using the 'Tv' mode ... ? My interpretation of full-auto was using the pre-set portrait function on my camera which I've never done.

    Please don't take the comment as being argumentative, I'm simply wanting to clarify my understanding
    Not at all, the EXIF for your photos show such wildly differing settings that I was assuming you used Auto (P) mode.

    They jump from 1/125th @ f2 and ISO 100 to 1/200th @ f7.1 and ISO 1600, that I assumed that auto mode was on for everything.
    Last edited by ricktas; 20-01-2013 at 3:29pm.

  13. #13
    Sunrise Chaser
    Join Date
    10 Jul 2010
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    6,346
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Hi Stace, The Exif says Auto, You should be able to get the shots with the 50mm 1.8 Maybe using flash, You'll be able to clean up the shots if you open the aperture from f8 to f2 and decrease the ISO from ISO1600 , These were taken at around 8.00 pm indoors , Not a good time for children shots , Try daylight or a nice light through the window to get the action
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Canon : 30D, and sometimes the 5D mkIII , Sigma 10-20, 50mm 1.8, Canon 24-105 f4 L , On loan Sigma 120-400 DG and Canon 17 - 40 f4 L , Cokin Filters




  14. #14
    Member
    Threadstarter

    Join Date
    24 Dec 2011
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    83
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thanks everyone for your input... to answer a question further up in the thread, I have shot a few photos this morning using flash - I try to not use flash indoors, for some reason I was under the impression that using a flash was frowned against when you have natural light because it looks too 'fake' .. is that not the case

    I'll share a few of the shots that I took this morning of my daughter - she's the one I'm having trouble with getting indoor shots of, she crawls around far too quickly ... and always towards me with the intention of grabbing at my lens!

    I should clarify that I always shoot in Tv mode at present, and that my 'blur' problems come not from setting the ISO too high or having my shutter speed so slow that I get shake - it's because by the time my lens has focused on her and given me the 'beep of approval' then she's moved or is coming towards me and I need to refocus.



    This one was taken without the flash (obviously LOL):



    This one is using the flash:



    This one is just a little too blurry (the focus issue I was talking about .. by the time my lens gave me the beep it was too late and she'd moved slightly):

  15. #15
    Sunrise Chaser
    Join Date
    10 Jul 2010
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    6,346
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    OK , Then you need to use A1 Servo focus mode , That should do the trick if the 1000D has it , This is from my 50D manual , Have a read , I think this is what you are talking about for the fast little Devils
    Attached Images Attached Images

  16. #16
    Member
    Threadstarter

    Join Date
    24 Dec 2011
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    83
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by William View Post
    Hi Stace, The Exif says Auto, You should be able to get the shots with the 50mm 1.8 Maybe using flash, You'll be able to clean up the shots if you open the aperture from f8 to f2 and decrease the ISO from ISO1600 , These were taken at around 8.00 pm indoors , Not a good time for children shots , Try daylight or a nice light through the window to get the action
    Thanks William- much appreciated! Though I do confess to being really perplexed at why my EXIF data says I took that image at around 8pm? It was taken in the middle of the morning, although from memory I probably played around with it in Photoshop at 8pm or so LOL

  17. #17
    Today may be the day, Or not !
    Join Date
    31 Jul 2010
    Location
    Perth Northern Suburbs
    Posts
    3,712
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Check your settings on your camera, as this is where the EXIF comes from, nothing to do with PS. I.E check your date and time settings.

    Try this link for a great book/reference guide. You can also get the same with a DVD, sit on the lounge watch and shot, so to speak. You need to get the right body though, only googled 1000D magic lantern.

  18. #18
    Sunrise Chaser
    Join Date
    10 Jul 2010
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    6,346
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Yep time is in the camera settings like Roosta said , Nothing to do with Processing , Although it says you processed the images at 15.48 on the 14/11/12 and took the shots at 20.04 on the 13/11/12 , So maybe get the settings right in camera

  19. #19
    Administrator ricktas's Avatar
    Join Date
    24 Jun 2007
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    15,411
    Mentioned
    9 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    With that last photo you presented, it was taken at 1/60th second, with a moving child this is way to slow, you will start to notice blur from movement once you get a shutter speed as slow as 1/60th. Try and keep your shutter speed up around 1/200th second.

  20. #20
    Sunrise Chaser
    Join Date
    10 Jul 2010
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    6,346
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    As was this one @ 1/25th
    Attached Images Attached Images

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •