Manual versus other modes

[Allie]

At the local camera club a few people have suggested using auto mode to see what the camera thinks is the correct settings and then use the manual (or another) mode to play around with those settings to get what you want. I try to use Aperture priority mostly but for hand held shots the shutter speed is often too slow for me to avoid camera shake so that's when I try the other settings - I'm not ashamed to use auto if I am not getting any worthwhile shots when choosing the settings myself - a whole memory card full of useless shots is not the reason I got a camera for in the first place.

[arthurking83]

At the local camera club a few people have suggested using auto mode to see what the camera thinks is the correct settings and then .......

Be 100% sure and specific on what exact definition this Auto mode has.

All cameras have differing meanings on the term Auto mode.

As an example, Auto mode on a D7000 may imply one of the auto scene modes such as sports or portrait mode ... or it may imply an auto exposure mode such as Shutter priority or Aperture priority mode.

Note that some camera's only 'auto mode' setting can be limited to the more advanced auto xposure modes(Shutter/Aperture/etc) as they don't have pre programmed auto scene modes at all!

So when people refer to 'auto mode', they should try be more specific describe it either as Auto Scene mode, or semi auto or Auto Exposure mode.

Did these local camera club folk mean Exposure mode, or Scene mode? I'd be surprised if they recommended a Scene mode to begin with!

[William]

I use Manual Mode 100% of the time , Maybe because thats the way I was taught in the days of film camera's , I do find that if I try and use TV ( I like certain shutter speeds for water movement) in the mornings for Sunrises and water shots that the camera's metering system always over exposes to my liking, I always shoot under a little , I can recover shadows and midtones , But not blown highlights in the sky , But I do use ND Grad filters all the time so I find just setting the ISO and aperture (And leaving it) and just adjusting the shutter speed works for me , Same with the Surfing action shots set Aperture (f7.1/f8) and ISO according to the light and just change the shutter by one or to stops up and down working off the Histogram to check, I have used TV at surfing comps when I got lazy on an all day shoot in the sun , Maybe it's what I shoot , If things were static I would probably shoot in AV or TV depending on the circumstances , AV or TV sounds like a good place to start when learning, I do agree , Just my $2 worth after watching this thread for a few days - Cheers Guys , Bill

[William W]

On that side topic - there are two main usage reasons, for the VIEWFINDER EYEPIECE COVER which comes with (most) cameras and is attached to the camera strap.

The first is, as described above, to stop extraneous light affecting the TTL Metering.
The second is for long exposures to stop extraneous light affecting the image.

WW

[ricktas]

On that side topic - there are two main usage reasons, for the VIEWFINDER EYEPIECE COVER which comes with (most) cameras and is attached to the camera strap.

The first is, as described above, to stop extraneous light affecting the TTL Metering.
The second is for long exposures to stop extraneous light affecting the image.

WW

Off-topic a bit, but the newer Nikons come with a switch that slides a small shutter down over the viewfinder to block the light, so now the cover is built into the camera.

[William W]

Be 100% sure and specific on what exact definition this Auto mode has.

. . . So when people refer to 'auto mode', they should try be more specific describe it . . .

+1

WW

- - - Updated - - -

Off-topic a bit, but the newer Nikons come with a switch that slides a small shutter down over the viewfinder to block the light, so now the cover is built into the camera.

Thanks, I didn't know that! Good idea, I think?
Those little rubber covers are easy to lose!

When shooting "from the hip" or "overhead doorstop style" - I use the ball of the thumb of my shooting hand, to cover the viewfinder.



WW

[arthurking83]

Strap??? what strap. Haven't used a strap in years(damn annoyances that they are )

Yeah, as Rick said, the round eyepiece Nikon's .. ie. D2, D3, D4, D700 and D800 all have a built in viewfinder shutter.

I can't imagine tho how on a long exposure light leakage would become an issue. Once the mirror is up(on a DSLR of course), it completes the seal to the sensor plane, so no light should enter into the mirror box from above.
Although if you rely on Auto Exposure mode, irrespective of the time taken for the exposure, any extraneous light entering in through the viewfinder will affect correct exposure, as the light meter internals are all up inside the viewfinder area. I dare say that the longer the expected exposure, then the more effect that light entering in through the viewfinder will have on the exposure.

[Papou]

Mostly manual mode for me except lighting is consistently changing then it Av which saves me chasing my tail..

[William W]

Strap??? what strap. Haven't used a strap in years(damn annoyances that they are )

haha!

I can't imagine tho how on a long exposure light leakage would become an issue. Once the mirror is up(on a DSLR of course), it completes the seal to the sensor plane, so no light should enter into the mirror box from above.

Yes, that's the point.
Once the mirror is up it 'should' complete the seal.
The seal wears, with all that flapping.
For long exposures, especially (for example) when using dense ND filters (think bright sunny day at beach - want waves soft and smooth) - best practice is to use the Viewfinder Eyepiece Cover for the reasons outlined above.

WW

[Wynny]

Relative newby having only started taking photography seriously for about 12 months, but probably use Manual about 50% and Av the other 50%. However I am finding that my Manual use is steadily increasing and I have shot my most satisfying photos in Manual.

Also must admit that I have blown a few photos when my brain was in Av but the camera was in Manual, hence the appropriate exposure adjustments weren't made. These Alzheimer's moments should reduce as Manual takes over.

[Lynqld]

Thanks Cass for initiating this thread.

A very interesting read as I am feeling quite overwhelmed by everything on my camera. (Only had it for a couple of weeks.)

[Lurchorama]

I'm such a lazy sod that I pretty much live in Av mode (generally compensated down at least one stop) only switching to manual if I can't quite get it right in Av.
And even then I use the 'Green button' a lot when in manual.

[William]

I'm such a lazy sod that I pretty much live in Av mode (generally compensated down at least one stop) only switching to manual if I can't quite get it right in Av.
And even then I use the 'Green button' a lot when in manual.

Whats the "Green Button" in manual on a Pentax ?, The Green mark on the shooting mode dial on a Canon is "Full Auto"

[Lurchorama]

This gives it better than I can explain:
http://theonlinephotographer.blogspo...axs-green.html

This is where the Green Button comes in. With the K10D in manual, it works as awkwardly as any other dual-control-wheel DSLR manual exposure system, until you invoke the magic green button. If you point at a possible picture and hit the Green Button, the camera momentarily reverts to Program mode and sets the shutter and f-stop as it would in program. Then it lets go and you have full control with the rear wheel running the f/stop and the front wheel running the shutter speed. (For some reason this is still counter-intuitive to me, though the Olympus E-1 I’ve used for several years also sets the wheels this way in manual. If I had my way I’d have the front wheel do the aperture and the rear wheel do the shutter.) Now, instead of overriding auto exposure for a particular framing, you dial in some up and down marks on the in-finder exposure scale to set an absolute exposure for this particular scene. If there’s time, use the Digital Previw to get RGB histograms to review, tweak as needed, then go ahead and shoot any framing changes you want without constantly fiddling to compensate for whatever error the automation would introduce with each new framing.

This is seriously cool. I don’t think it’s as good a manual system as classic shutter speed and f-stop controls, but it’s a really imaginative workaround that I’m finding quite useful.

Nutshell version: whilst in 'manual', it throws the camera into P mode for a sec to get a baseline

[alsocass]

Since starting this thread I switched over to predominantly using Av mode. It has definetly changed how/what I am learning.

I can take better photos more quickly because I do waste copius amounts of time fiddling with all the dials. Whether that is good in the long run, I am not sure, but it is a good thing for now.

[arthurking83]

It's good .. trust me it's good.

What you should be focusing on(if you pardon the pun) is the metering, as already mentioned.
There's no prize given simply because you shot in full manual mode.
You don't become the elite of the elite simply because you shoot in manual mode.

Manual mode has a purpose ... and it has nothing to do with teaching the operator a good lesson.

What's far more important is to understand the metering, understand how the metering types all work, working out which one is best suited(either to your workflow, or preference) and going on from there.
Read the lighting requirement of the scene ahead of taking the exposure, so that the exposure is about as good as you can get from the camera.

Good to see that Av mode is working OK for 'ya so far.

[Kym]

The idea is to use the mode most appropriate to what you are shooting.
Eg. Av for birds/wildlife/sports (i.e. fast moving), and Manual for setup (tripod) shots like landscape or formal portraits.

BUT! The NTP learning plan is about learning in small easy to understand steps.
Which is why it starts in full auto and concentrates on composure, then Av etc.
Don't rush it. Get composition right first, then add Depth of Field (3d control if you will), and then when confident move on.

[extraball]

I started on auto, quickly to AV, now use manual. I reckon that manual forces me to learn more, allthought I could be wrong! I did a short switch-back to AV this week, and found that the results were no better, infact they were worse. Speaking of metering.......this is where I could be falling down.

[alsocass]

I started on auto, quickly to AV, now use manual. I reckon that manual forces me to learn more, allthought I could be wrong! I did a short switch-back to AV this week, and found that the results were no better, infact they were worse. Speaking of metering.......this is where I could be falling down.

I agree. I feel like Av is a slightly better form of auto. I focus on Depth of Field (choosing the aperture) but pay no heed to the meter or the shutterspeed. But, as mentioned above, I feel like Av mode lets me focus on composition (including depth of field), and not worry about the other stuff. So I can see how that fits into a learning journey.

[Fedgrub]

I use manual for my macro work because I need ultimate control - but Av is my second most used choice as it does everything I need to in other situations.