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Thread: D90 + Sb-910

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    Member SockPuppet's Avatar
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    D90 + Sb-910

    So my SB-910 should arrive tomorrow or day afterwards. Doing some prep work I find that the D90 does cannot wirelessly trip the flash- from what I intend to use it for, I don't want to triggering it with the built-in, so I'm looking into wireless controller.

    I can see myself getting some more flashes in the next year, so I want something that will grow with me.

    any advise on these controllers would be appreciated - what do you use or recommend?

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    Administrator ricktas's Avatar
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    The phottix range work well, or if you want the top of the line, then look at pocket wizards. Phottix is an AP advertiser
    "It is one thing to make a picture of what a person looks like, it is another thing to make a portrait of who they are" - Paul Caponigro

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    What's wrong it's using the pop up ?


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    Quote Originally Posted by ricktas View Post
    The phottix range work well, or if you want the top of the line, then look at pocket wizards. Phottix is an AP advertiser
    cheers Rick, I will investigate the phottix first.

    Quote Originally Posted by kiwi View Post
    What's wrong it's using the pop up ?
    My un-informed opinion says nothing, but for what I have in mind I don't want light to originate from the direction of the camera. Also, does it still work if the speedlite is placed (say) in a corridor not in line of sight of the camera?
    Last edited by SockPuppet; 15-07-2012 at 2:01pm.

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    RTM

    You can reduce the pop up flash power to 0

    Its a pretty good signal IMHO

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    Quote Originally Posted by kiwi View Post
    RTM
    You can reduce the pop up flash power to 0
    really? wow - it seems counter-intuitive that you can reduce the in-camera flash light to 0 and not emit any light from the camera and still set off an external flash.

    but I got a lot to learn about flashes.

    i get the speedlite (and manual) soon, and i'm looking forward to testing this stuff out. i'm hanging off buying the extra bits till i done some ground work.

    thanks for the advice.
    Last edited by SockPuppet; 15-07-2012 at 9:46pm.

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    A royal pain in the bum! arthurking83's Avatar
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    In the wireless flash menu in camera, there are many options with respect to the way that wireless flash works.

    As Darren said, you can use the built in flash as the wireless controller, but set the power it produces down to zero .. I think the power value will look something like -- in the menu item.
    Can't remember exactly.

    Even though it does still flash, the majority of the light output is used primarily for controlling the external flash wirelessly, but there is very minimal residual flash light from the on board flash that will very slightly affect exposure.
    It really is pretty much insignificant, and you most likely won't notice the difference between images affected or not.

    If you were pedantic about it all tho, you can get an infra red protective gel to cover up the onboard flash .. but I think it's not worth the time and effort.
    If I remember correctly, the amount of light that the onboard flash puts out whilst in zero power wireless mode is less than 1/128th.

    The Nikon wireless CLS system works well as is.
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    CLS does work well but needs line of sight to the flash. I like hiding flashes and use Yongnuo 603's for this. Cheap as chips and have been very reliable for me. I once had a play, flash fired and I was over 100m from the trigger!
    Cheers,
    Ian

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    True re line of sight, though Ive had it work where there are walls to bounce off around a corner etc, but here's a pretty good read

    http://photo.tutsplus.com/tutorials/...ghting-system/

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    A royal pain in the bum! arthurking83's Avatar
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    Line of sight is an ambiguous proposition!

    True line of sight requires that the two subject can actually see each other directly.
    Line of sight when use in terms of light particles is as Kiwi says ... around corners or behind crevices where the two devices(camera-flash) don't actually have to see each other directly.
    As long as the light flash from the on board flash is viewable by the speedlight, the speedlight usually works OK too.

    Having no line of sight for the Nikon CLS system I presume may involve closed doors and separate rooms .. and in these instances, one has to wonder on the wisdom of trying to use wireless flashes sitting in 'another room'

    I've had flashes around corners and under tables and so forth too myself(in a couple of dwelling shoots) .. where the SB800 was not 'in sight' of the camera but still provided good power output for shot.

    Remember that with the Nikon CLS system, it's not the flash of light from the flash itself that is used for triggering the slave devices, but the infra red light within that flash of light.
    All it requires is the ability to distinguish the IR sub signal in the light output .... not so much the flash itself.
    The 'wireless' SU800 commander module only has an IR beam for transmitting the necessary info from camera to slave devices.
    I suspect tho that this beam is more concentrated and distinct than an onboard flash, so it's likely to be more stable and consistent in it's operation by comparison.

    One situation where the CLS system may be less than ideal is in direct bright sunlight, where the sun's light output has an already high IR transmission.
    The already high IR levels in such condition can supposedly dilute the commander to slave IR signal, which may lead to flaky CLS operation in such conditions.
    This is supposedly what can happen in some instances, but many folks around the globe have proven how capable the CLS system is (for what it is!!) in out door conditions.

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