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Jacs14
07-04-2010, 8:46am
Hi, I am looking for some advice on filters ... Now that I am getting into sunrises and sunsets, I think I need a ndg filter, plus I do like seascapes, a couple of other people have been talking about different filters for different effects. So what I basically would like to know is what you would consider as a good basic starter set up for filters? Funds (like most people!!!) are a bit limited, but I would like a good 'middle of the road' starter kit to get me started.

Thanks a lot

Jacs

J.davis
07-04-2010, 12:20pm
Ebay has some good bargains for Cokin
http://cgi.ebay.com/Cokin-P152-P153-P154-Neutral-Density-ND-Filter-Kit-77mm_W0QQitemZ220564787722QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCamera_Filters?hash=item335aaf920a

You have to buy a holder (Below),
http://cgi.ebay.com/Colour-Filter-Holder-for-Cokin-P-series_W0QQitemZ350302062116QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item518fa14624

and adaptor ring for your lens of choice.

tomtom1
07-04-2010, 12:43pm
3 essential filters:
Polarizer: reduces reflections, increases colour saturation esp sky
Solid ND: blocks light, enabling use of longer shutter speeds. Useful for blurring movement eg. water
Grad ND: blocks light in a portion of the filter. Reduces contrast across the image enabling the digital sensor to capture information. Come in variable strength, hard and soft varieties

Avoid screw-in grad nds at all cost, you can't alter the transition point which means you have to alter composition.

Cokin P would be a good place to start if funds are limited. Larger systems are available ie. cokin z and lee, but are more expensive, and depends on how wide you are planning on shooting.

Jacs14
07-04-2010, 10:10pm
thank you ... think cokin may be the way to go to start with, although someone else has they leave a cast, and recommended lee filter ... any further comments?

Gregg Bell
07-04-2010, 10:44pm
If you want some nice landscapes, and like doing long exposures you might want to consider getting a 9 or 10 stop Neutral Density filter. B+W 110, Cokin Z-Pro or a Hoya NDX400.

check out this guide - clicky (http://www.alexwisephotography.net/blog/2010/02/16/guide-to-daytime-long-exposures/)

tomtom1
07-04-2010, 11:29pm
While the 10 stop nd is a nice bit of kit, it wouldn't be one of the first filters I'd purchase

Cokin have been known to produce a magenta cast, but any resin filter will provided the neutral density is strong enough. A lot of people are happy with cokin, another midrange brand is hitech-not sold in Australia as far as I am aware, but can order online.

Keep in mind that Lee filters won't fit in a cokin P holder...you'd need the z-pro or lee filter holders. I use Lee and they are nice, it depends on how much you want to spend...

J.davis
08-04-2010, 2:42pm
There was a post on the forum not long ago about Lee filters leaving a colour cast too.:eek:

michael_sa
08-04-2010, 3:30pm
There was a post on the forum not long ago about Lee filters leaving a colour cast too.:eek:

That was this post (http://www.ausphotography.net.au/forum/showthread.php?t=53485)

Jacs14, if you decide to go with the Cokins, I have 2x holders, 67 & 77mm adapter rings, the P121 (ND8 Grad) and the P164 (C-Polariser) - they need a new home as I don't use them much. Less than 2 years old - If you're interested PM me.

Michael

tomtom1
08-04-2010, 3:44pm
There was a post on the forum not long ago about Lee filters leaving a colour cast too.:eek:

Any resin filter will produce a cast if the ND factor is strong enough even Lee and Singh Ray. This is apparently due to infrared rays.

The poster in question stacked 2x 3 stop NDs, and a 3 stop GND...so 9 stops overall is too much and just asking for trouble. With normal use you won't see any magenta with lees, I've stacked up to 6 stops and it has been fine (3 stop ND with 3 stop GND).

Lee proglass NDs apparently have a IR filter built in, so if you include one of these it might get rid of the cast. They are expensive, and I haven't tried this myself.

arnica
13-04-2010, 10:32am
Avoid screw-in grad nds at all cost, you can't alter the transition point which means you have to alter composition.


Why do you say that? Just want to know that's all.

makro
13-04-2010, 11:07am
I bought the cheap ebay ones. good fun to start off with. Also with sufing the net people recommend to not go in for the 1stop ND filters since the sun is harsh downunder. Again the cheap option is a great way to see which "stops" to go for.

my 2 cents

Dylan & Marianne
13-04-2010, 11:33am
I just thought I'd throw in a few suggestions for some midrange filters
(Cokin I'm told has alot of cast issues, these ones I''m going to list apparently dont)

hitech for 4"x6" GND filters are reasonably priced at about 50 dollars each (one quarter the price of singhray and lees)
fader NDs don't really have a cast and work well and vary from 2-10 stops (can get them off ebay for a good price)
if you're going to do wide angles, you need to get a holder that won't vignette - cokin's do even with some reengineering ( I can't use my 16-35 on FF beyond 20mm with a Z pro filter holder)/
Polariser filters : the kenko pro1D series is just fine and cheaper than the hoya versions without any noticeable difference in performance.

I agree about screw in GNDs - there is zero flexibility to change the grad line so all of you light transitions will have to be placed in the centre of composition which is far from ideal

Slide
13-04-2010, 5:37pm
Polariser filters : the kenko pro1D series is just fine and cheaper than the hoya versions without any noticeable difference in performance.

I own a kenko pro1d polarizer and have to say they give a cooling(blue) cast to all shots taken with it and also the coating is starting to wear, after just over a year of very little use.

tomtom1
13-04-2010, 5:47pm
Why do you say that? Just want to know that's all.

With a ND grad, half the filter contains neutral density filter, and half is clear. Between the two sections there is a gradient or gradual transition.

If you have a screw-in filter, the transition is in the middle, and there is no way to reposition. If the best composition was a certain way (eg. using rule of thirds, 1/3 sky, 2/3 land) that's too bad, and the horizon would have to be split 1/2 1/2.

Slide-in GNDs work by placing a holder on the front of the lens which contains slots for larger rectangular filters to slide up and down. You can adjust the transition point most effectively for your composition.

dangreen
17-04-2010, 10:17pm
Dont wast money on the Cokins.
I have used the ZPros and they are very bad for colour casting when double stacked and/or pointed into a bright spot.
They will do the job under the right conditions but better to have a set that do all conditions.
I have shot Lee and Cokins side by side under the same conditions and Lee are far better in the strong light with cast :-)

Jacs14
18-04-2010, 10:42am
Thank you for all the replys and advice, got lots to think about now. :)