PDA

View Full Version : sticky filter threads



davros
28-12-2009, 3:11pm
having a lot of problems with my CPL filter getting stuck to my UV filter. I've only been screwing it on finger tight, but by the end of the day it doesn't want to come off. Usually it comes off the camera with the UV stuck to it. The problem is that there isn't enough grip area to get the two of them apart!

Any thoughts how how to separate them and how to keep them from getting stuck again?

ricktas
28-12-2009, 3:30pm
I used to have this very same issue and often ended up using a set of point nose pliers to unscrew them from each other. These days I use slide in square filters, so that solved it for me :). That doesn't answer your question, but be assured you are not alone with the issue you are having.

Harves
28-12-2009, 3:53pm
Same trouble here, you may find rather than put a lot of pressure on the sides, try and get your fingers evenly around the faces of the filters. Putting too much pressure on the side will cause the tiny threads to bind up.

dmdigital
28-12-2009, 4:00pm
If you buy the B+W they are a brass casing (they have a cheaper range that aren't) and don't bind as easily as the alloy casings do.

The best you can do is keep the threads really clean and not put them together fully if stacking them for storage. I keep mine in individual boxes rather than stacked together.

Also as mentioned in previous post, don't put to much pressure on the sides. Try taking both filters off if stuck and putting them between your palms and twisting.

Steadyhands
28-12-2009, 4:45pm
Rubber gloves make excellent an excellent tool to get more grip on filter rings.

Not sure what could be used to prevent them sticking for next time. Maybe Graphite power brushed into the filter thread, but it could be binding face to face on the filters.

MarkW
28-12-2009, 4:49pm
Why do you need a UV and a CPL. Digital cameras don't need UV filters, they have their own filter on the sensor.

If you want to use a CPL then take the UV off. Stacked filters only lead to vignetting at wide angle.

dmdigital
28-12-2009, 4:53pm
Maybe Graphite power brushed into the filter thread
:eek::eek::eek: Not anywhere it even has a remote chance of getting inside the lens barrel or even worse the camera body!!!!

Big Pix
28-12-2009, 5:53pm
you should remove the UV filter...... then add the CPL......

Steadyhands
28-12-2009, 6:16pm
:eek::eek::eek: Not anywhere it even has a remote chance of getting inside the lens barrel or even worse the camera body!!!!
It's all in the application technique. I'm not say blow the stuff about, but on a clean lint free cloth and wiped on the thread is fine.

MarkW
28-12-2009, 7:55pm
Sorry but the thought of putting any sort of powder near my lens where it can be sucked into the interior isn't for me. Especially a black powder.

If I had to lubricate it with anything I might use a a light sillicone spray that the transport medium dries out. It would have to be applied to a cotton bud then applied to the filter thread only, not the lens.

Personally I wouldn't use anything - see earlier post.

peterb666
28-12-2009, 8:07pm
One filter only unless you use a stepping ring and larger filters.

I use to have a Nikon filter that would always bind. Best thing I did was throw it away before I damaged the thread on the lens.

davros
29-12-2009, 10:17am
Why do you need a UV and a CPL. Digital cameras don't need UV filters, they have their own filter on the sensor.

If you want to use a CPL then take the UV off. Stacked filters only lead to vignetting at wide angle.

Sorry I spoke incorrectly. It isn't a UV filter, but a MC protector so I don't have to worry about scratching my lense. I have a MC protector on both of my lenses and stack the CPL on top of that as needed.

MarkW
29-12-2009, 11:34am
I don't know what an "MC" protector is - I shall assume its just a clear lens without any function other than being a sacrificial piece in front of your lens. As I have said previously I don't believe they're worth a cracker. Your lens hood actually offers more protection as it prevents contact with the lens rather than relying on some piece of low grade plastic shattering rigth next to your lens.

If you don't want to remove this "filter" or protector then put up with having problems with other filters. CPL are notorious for being difficult to install or remove as they revolve independantly. The small amount of thread at the end of a filter especially a cheapie, unlike a lens, may not always be formed correctly which again leads to binding. Lastly once a filter is cross threaded, it will continue to be near impossible to attach correctly where the added metal in a lens makes it less likely but not impossible, to cross thread.

BTW your getting just as much protection from a CPL as you would from a so called lens protector.

davros
29-12-2009, 12:23pm
Your assumption is correct. An MC protector is just a sacrificial piece of glass in front of the lens. I suppose it is a carry over from my video days working in news. Between shooting in the rain, dust storms, etc of West Texas, I tend to be overly cautious about my lens getting scratched. Obviously that doesn't translate to still photography (usually not in such a hurry to wipe a lens).