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hoffy
21-08-2009, 2:23pm
Howdy

I have noticed of late that there are a few more around who don't mind burning some film on the odd occassion.

So, I'd be interested to know what film is your main used film and why?

For me personally, I am still to make up my mind. I have been using pretty much exclusively Ilford HP5+ B&W film, which I have to say is slowly growing on me (especially since I changed to ID-11 to develop it). I have shot a few different types over the last month or so, but have yet to have any prints done to determine whether I like them or not.

So, what is the first thing you reach for before loading up a camera?

Krzys
21-08-2009, 3:24pm
Hp5 for general, Fp4 for stuff shot off a tripod. Delta for special occasions, Delta 3200 for very special.

For some reason I see D-76/ID-11 as totally boring (though it does a great job) so I will be using Diafine from now on. Maybe some Rodinal later.

I've got a good 40 assorted B&W rolls coming the mail soon so who knows what I'll come to love.

TOM
27-08-2009, 8:59pm
Hoffy, shoot alot of chrome for personal use....Provia 100f and 400x. I rarely shoot Velvia as I find it a little lairy. I also shoot alot of print film in colour and black and white. I have a stack of exposed Kodachrome in my office that I'm still adding to before it goes off to the US.

For weddings I mainly use Superia Reala 100 @ 64, Pro 400h @200, and 800x @ 400 or 500. If it is black and white then it is hard to go past HP5+...can be rated anywhere from 400 to 1600 comfortably.

I have just tried some Ektar 100 which I must get down to the lab (looking forward to running this through the scanner).

jim
27-08-2009, 11:59pm
Kodachrome 25.

:(

jev
28-08-2009, 1:16am
Too bad Jim, Kodachrome is EOL.

Me, I'm a sucker for Tri-X. And several slide films...

Krzys
28-08-2009, 8:47am
Tri-x is so hard to obtain in aus.

hoffy
28-08-2009, 9:13am
I have some provia at home that I am itching to try. As it appears my thing at the moment is snippets of stone walls in Adelaide, I think it could come in well for this.

TOM
28-08-2009, 9:22am
I have some provia at home that I am itching to try. As it appears my thing at the moment is snippets of stone walls in Adelaide, I think it could come in well for this.

If colour is your thing, there aint much that Provia won't do well at.


Tri-x is so hard to obtain in aus.

i have never any trouble obtaining it, its just that I never have obtained it.

pirate59
31-08-2009, 12:52pm
My faves at the moment are XP2 and Velvia 50.

mmm just the sounds of them make me wanna start shooting...

wongyboi
14-09-2009, 8:53pm
Colour Negatives: Portra 160/400NC or VC hands down. Beautiful pastel colors, not too saturated and just right. Tri-X for B&W.

Krzys
14-09-2009, 9:02pm
If I had an interest in shooting color at the moment, which I don't, I would be shooting Portra NC hands down.

nisstrust
14-09-2009, 9:14pm
i like ilford delta 3200 b&w at the moment :)

Krzys
14-09-2009, 9:32pm
What are you rating it and and developing in? That film seems fickley. Some say its really 1000asa.

GlennSan
14-09-2009, 9:37pm
HP5+ or FP4 in ID11, LC29 or Rodinal. Used to use plus-x and tri-x but I got the sh*ts with Kodak from a philosophical viewpoint so decided a few years back to stick with Ilford because they were sticking with monochrome shooters.

Not too picky with colour since I don't use a lot of colour film. Mostly Fuji branded stuff though. NPS or NPC in 120.

ricktas
15-09-2009, 6:06am
Superia Reala, Provia and I like the Ilford Delta for mono's

jev
15-09-2009, 6:23pm
Ilford Delta for mono's
Do you develop yourself Rick? If so, what do you do to keep it under control? I always found the Ilford Delta showed a pronounced grain with a very harsh looking contrast (the grain, that is). Seems there's a lot of difference in low-ISO and higher ISO delta's, so would be nice to know what you're using?

Krzys
15-09-2009, 6:28pm
What developer, dilution, temp, time and agitation are you using Jev?

ricktas
15-09-2009, 7:42pm
Do you develop yourself Rick? If so, what do you do to keep it under control? I always found the Ilford Delta showed a pronounced grain with a very harsh looking contrast (the grain, that is). Seems there's a lot of difference in low-ISO and higher ISO delta's, so would be nice to know what you're using?

No I don't. Only cause my house has heaps of floor to ceiling windows and there really isn't a room I can make dark, unless I wanted to permanently converted it to a darkroom.

Krzys
15-09-2009, 8:05pm
What about using a tank?

ricktas
15-09-2009, 8:11pm
What about using a tank?

True! But I much prefer to get out taking photos than sit at a PC editing them or developing them. I am not a 'spend hours processing' person. Most of my digital photos are processed in about 2-3 minutes.

GlennSan
15-09-2009, 8:44pm
True! But I much prefer to get out taking photos than sit at a PC editing them or developing them. I am not a 'spend hours processing' person. Most of my digital photos are processed in about 2-3 minutes.

I like this mindset. :th3:

jev
15-09-2009, 9:55pm
What developer, dilution, temp, time and agitation are you using Jev?

I use an Amaloco AM50, 1+29 dilution at 20°C . 10 1/2 minutes for 400 ISO. Agitation: 30 seconds continuously, than once per 15 seconds (for 120 film) as per user's manual. Than stop using 1+19 S10, 20°C, 2 minutes (which is considerably longer than it says on the datasheets).

The AM50, they said, was the best replacement for the Neofin Red that I was using in the past. Tempted to switch to AM75, but that's a bit harder to get.

@Ricktas: so, what does you lab use than?

Krzys
15-09-2009, 10:03pm
From what I see on discussion boards Neofin Red is a very high acutance developer, similar to Rodinal. That is probably why you are having pronounced grain.

jev
15-09-2009, 10:48pm
Neofin Red was the equivalent of Neofin Blue for mid- to high ISO film (being anything more than 150 ISO). The Amaloco developer is a replacement for both, Neofin Blue as well as Red. I would think the long development time would reduce grain clotting or is it the other way around?

Krzys
15-09-2009, 10:57pm
I wouldn't call 10 minutes a long time at all. Its not uncommon for me to develop for 16 minutes. You would want stand or semi stand development at very high dilutions. Minimal grain and widest tonal range.

jev
15-09-2009, 11:26pm
I wouldn't call 10 minutes a long time at all. Its not uncommon for me to develop for 16 minutes.
Depends on both, developer and film... The recommended developing times for HP5 @ 400 ISO for example is just over 7 minutes, T-max 9 minutes.

I switched to T-max and Tri-X though... problem solved (for me ;)). Not that I'm shooting a lot of film anymore...somewhere between 10 and 15 rolls per year...

Krzys
16-09-2009, 12:29am
Yes but recommended is subjective. If Delta 3200 is actually 1000asa then how can we trust the given times :) Digital Truth seems to have the best development chart but it is still inconsistent.

wongyboi
16-09-2009, 7:33pm
Everyone loves Portra :D

With Tri-X, never need any other B&W film. Rate it at 400-1600 with Rodinol and you can get great tones with little grain.

Krzys
16-09-2009, 8:54pm
But that is contrary to everything I've ever heard. I've never shot tri-x with Rodinal but I hear that its grain is massive.

ricktas
16-09-2009, 8:55pm
But that is contrary to everything I've ever heard. I've never shot tri-x with Rodinal but I hear that its grain is massive.

Some of us love the really grainy mono look though at times.

TOM
16-09-2009, 9:00pm
yep, some people do love golf ball sized lumps of grain, and it does lend itself to certain styles. rodinal isn't know for fine grain, but it does produce wonderfully sharp results. so far i have found that tri-x @ 1600, developed for 3 min. a, and 3 min. b gives super fine grain and moderate contrast (which can be adjusted in ps if you are working in hybrid).

Krzys
16-09-2009, 9:57pm
Some of us love the really grainy mono look though at times.As do I. I was just responding to wongyboi.

wongyboi
19-09-2009, 12:09am
But that is contrary to everything I've ever heard. I've never shot tri-x with Rodinal but I hear that its grain is massive.

If you stand develop it at 1:100 over 60 minutes or more the grain is very fine. Single inversions every half hour and the grain is very fine/smooth. Learnt it over at RRF from a few members there.

Krzys
19-09-2009, 12:11am
Ahh ofcourse. I've wanted to try stand development for so long but I never get around to it. I hear that it works better in steel reels than plastic? Well, not better, but a lesser chance of drag from exhausted chemicals..

StanW
19-09-2009, 6:53am
TriX 220 and HP5, developed in D76. Provia for colour. And there's going to be some Adox infrared shot soon.

wongyboi
19-09-2009, 1:40pm
Provia 400x for night photography or low light, nothing beats it!

TOM
20-09-2009, 7:18pm
400x pushes well to 800 or 1600 too

hoffy
20-09-2009, 7:43pm
I tried my first roll of Delta 400 not that long ago and made my first print with it last night. While the print is a good candidate for some dodging (a recessed doorway), I found that it seems to have pretty good lattitude and I must admit, I like the less grainy look it gives. I was going to buy a bulk roll of Hp5+, but since this gear is only $10 more, I might head down this path.

TOM
20-09-2009, 7:55pm
hp5+ would have to be Ilfords biggest seller. it pushes better than delta, making it more flexible, and has a more classical look. those qualities may or may not be important to you. i'm not sure on how it prints up in the darkroom though.

hoffy
20-09-2009, 8:01pm
Thats a good point TOM. I suppose I need to determine how important pushing is for what I want.

Krzys
20-09-2009, 8:56pm
Push with Diafine, Grain with Rodinal :D:cool:

wongyboi
23-09-2009, 8:09pm
400x pushes well to 800 or 1600 too

I don't think I've ever seen shots of 400x pushed to 800//1600. How do the colours turn out?

TOM
23-09-2009, 11:33pm
keep an eye out in the no pixels challenge. i haven't shot any for a while now, but i plan on banging off a roll tomorrow @ 1000asa

doigal
26-09-2009, 9:18pm
Really depends on what i'm shooting, but things i always like to keep in the fridge are velvia 50 (and lots of it), Rollei Retro 400, Delta 3200, fuji fortia, some kodak aerochrome, T64 and a little ektar. Everything else is on an as needed basis.

TOM
02-10-2009, 9:57pm
okay, so here's some shots of fuji 400x chrome shot pushed to 1600asa. i am posting various shots in different lighting conditions to show what this stuff can do. when you compare it to say fuji 1600 press film, it does come up nice.

TOM
02-10-2009, 10:02pm
notice in shot four how there is some blown hightlights. the d.r. in this shot wasn't that great but pushing this film certainly reduces its latitude. it doesn't shine in all situations, but when you're in the right lighting, it really does look fantastic. here's a few more....

StanW
03-10-2009, 7:03am
Tri-X, HP5 and Provia in my RB67, whatever is suitable in my 35mm, and Ilford multigrade in my 8x10 pinhole.

wongyboi
04-10-2009, 12:50am
TOM: M7 AND MP. I am jealous.

TOM
04-10-2009, 12:56am
TOM: M7 AND MP. I am jealous.

They're not mine, they belong to my wife. She let's me use them though :)