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Chromo
23-05-2009, 9:53pm
I want to take a photo of an object, in front of the Harbour Bridge at night.

I've taken a few night shots of the bridge and the opera house before (so I am aware I'll need a tripod, slow shutter speeds and a large depth of field). But I've never taken night pics of an object with big things in the background and googling hasn't helped so far.

Is anything different when there's a foreground subject added to the mix of a traditional night bridge shot?
Will the available light from the long exposure be enough to illuminate the object, or do I need to use a flash so the object in the foreground is illuminated?

I'm asking because I don't know if I'll have time to do test shots, before I need to do this for a group and I'd hate for none of the pics to work.

I assume if I do need a flash, I'll have to buy one, as the camera flash probably won't be effective enough - is that right?
(I have a tripod, a Nikon D70s and a Nikkor 18-70mm lens)

merlin
23-05-2009, 11:45pm
Whats the object how large small?? colour? How light is the area your thinking of going to?

Analog6
24-05-2009, 6:26am
Whether camera flash would do will depend on the object (size, colour/luminosity). One way is to do the long exposure and then use a manually operated flash at the end to illuminate the object. But you would have to practice, I imagine. Someone on here may be able to offer advice.

If you are in Sydney you could proabaly hire an off camera flash, and I'm sure you can download instrcutions for them on how to fire independently from the camera (if they do not come with the hired equipment).

Chromo
24-05-2009, 7:11am
Sorry - the object is a motorbike (or multiple motorbikes).

I think you're right Analog. I'm just going to have to find a way to practice it first.

latino
01-06-2009, 9:51am
Maybe you can take the photos around 20 minutes after sunset so you still have some light which you can use to your advantage. You can use exposure lock to lock in the exposure of the background and use a flash to illuminate the bikes in the foreground.

Just an idea.

ricktas
01-06-2009, 10:51am
You can also illuminate the foreground subject with Torches etc.

Dylan & Marianne
01-06-2009, 4:06pm
I often do what rick has suggested - allows you creativity in lighting like that too

lloydy
02-06-2009, 8:50pm
I would use one or more off camera flash units if you can get hold of them.. They can be fired wirelessly, or I understand that the Nikon has a commander mode or some such that can fire off camera flashes.

Set your shutter speed for the background. The flash(s) will only fire for a very short (about 1/10000 sec) and will illuminate the bikes, the shutter will stay open to capture the background.

Its all a lot of fun, and can bve a lot to get your head around. I have sworn never to use on camera flash again after playing with multiple off camera flashes.

If your interested you can go here

http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html

and here

http://strobist.blogspot.com/2007/06/lighting-102-introduction.html

for some real interestiung stuff from the experts (more than I could ever tell you :) )
have fun
Pete

Chromo
27-06-2009, 10:51am
You can also illuminate the foreground subject with Torches etc.

I think I'm going to give this a try. A quick question - would you expose for the object while flashlit, or would you expose for the lit-up bridge in the background? :confused013

ricktas
27-06-2009, 1:47pm
I think I'm going to give this a try. A quick question - would you expose for the object while flashlit, or would you expose for the lit-up bridge in the background? :confused013

Always expose for the highlights (brightest part of your scene). If you expose for something else, you will end up with blown highlights, which are impossible to recover. Whereas shadow detail can often be recovered and improved quite well. This applies to all photography, not just night shots etc

Scotty72
27-06-2009, 4:35pm
Not sure if this is the 'right' way, but I've tried using 2nd Curtain flash.

The camera will give off an inital, smaller pulse at the start of the exposure then give a full (depending on your setting) flash right at the end.

If you're within a few metres of the foreground subjects, this ought to be enough, otherwise you may need a external flash.

Scotty

Chromo
30-06-2009, 8:50am
Huge thanks to all who have helped me in this thread. Not only have your posts helped, but you've spurred me on to do further learning. Thanks for taking the time to assist know-nothing newbies guys :th3:

I love this place, even though I'm more of a lurker by nature. Now I need to find more time to practice, practice, practice!