camera or lens issue?

[dylan84]

]I had my lens calibrated today, as i was getting out of focus/soft pictures, (using lenscal). I then went out to shoot again and produced the same results.

As my camera is only a day old, i am thinking that this is either an issue with the lens, af problems or is it the camera. While i am new to actually shooting photography i do have a very good understanding of all the operational side. I thought i would see if there is anyone here based in Melbourne, who may be able to tell what my issue may be from above and possibly catch up, as right now this is my only lens, *removed, you cannot offer services or to pay for services on this site, outside the classifieds forum *. i don;t think it would be an issue as to what brand camera you may have, though i do have a pentax k1

Thanks

[ameerat42]

Hi D84. Can you edit your post and knock out the [color] tags as it is hard to
see the text on the standard background.

So this is a problem with your auto focus?
Can you post a couple of pictures or to demonstrate the problem? If you shoot a scaled object (like a tape
measure or metre stick at an oblique angle) and tell us what point you focused on, we can determine if it
is a back/front focus issue and go from there.

[arthurking83]

And further to Am's reply.

Do you have/own/access to a tripod.
Don't automatically rely on the fact that you're handholding technique is spot on!

Post a couple of sample images, do some fully wide open and also check stopped down just a little too.

You said K-1, but what lens/lenses are producing this issue?
Do you have more than 1 lens?
If so, do they all do it, or only 1 or some of them?

.. etc.

ps. if it does turn out to be an actual issue, I can get you onto a reasonable service/repairer in the City to help too.

[ricktas]

My suggestion, post some photos, with the EXIF intact and let us take a look at what you are referring to.

[dylan84]

Hi ammeerat and arthurking83,

I'm not sure how to change the coloured tags.

- Yes it seems to be auto focus problem or the lens itself.
- The k1 has image stabilisition built in so i am able to handhold and i also look out for shutter, even though i do shoot alot in aperture priority. I currently just use use a 55mm 1.4 lens and shoot at wide open as well as closed up to f11.
- I don't know what the specific issue is, so if i was able to catch up with someone who's quite clued in on this stuff, i may be able to save $$ instead of taking it in to be looked at, though if i need to then of course i will.

Thanks


https://www.dropbox.com/s/sdv7f1rz7wvo19l/IMGP0403.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/xvhnb2kc4y9iudm/IMGP0313.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/nvdm1ee3q34tuwe/IMGP0322.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ei47fnsqx3z1h2q/IMGP0251.jpg?dl=0

[ricktas]

I fixed your colour tags, that happens when you copy text from another site, etc into a forum. It drags along code with it.

[ricktas]

Looking at your drop box images, the issue is oversharpening or to much jpg compression. You are producing jagged edges by over post processing your photos. One of them is a 24kb file, I looked at another and it was 100kb. To Much JPG artifacts coming into play at that filesize, keep them at least 250kb

focus looks fine.

[dylan84]

Thanks ricktas

- - - Updated - - -

these are jpeg files, i will do them again non compresssed as i didn't do any sharpening. At 100% zoom though they arn't good

[ricktas]

Thanks ricktas

- - - Updated - - -

these are jpeg files, i will do them again non compresssed as i didn't do any sharpening. At 100% zoom though they arn't good

ah.. a pixel peeper. Stop stressing and enjoy taking photos. There is no PERFECT camera and lens. When you zoom into 100% or more, with any photo, you will notice small things that are not visible to anyone looking at the whole photo. Stop over-thinking.

[dylan84]

i have to produce sharp pictures and at 100% as i will be working with clients who expect this. This isn't just a hobby for me, anything subpar won't do with my work

[ricktas]

i have to produce sharp pictures and at 100% as i will be working with clients who expect this. This isn't just a hobby for me, anything subpar won't do with my work

Ah, So you are not a beginner then? As you have clients, we are upgrading you to advanced.

However. no lens is perfect, and fairly much every pro uses sharpening in post production to get their results. Sharpening in post-production is part and parcel of editing a photo these days. Whether you do overall sharpening or selectively sharpen, eyes, mouth etc.

[dylan84]

I am a beginner at shooting photography yes, though i understand the concept of photography very well which is why i have opportunities. i believe that you should always be able to get photos done very well in the camera, and to be a great photographer. Anything after is a bonus and for effects. This has gone very much off the topic of my thread now.

[ameerat42]

D84.
There is no exif info with camera settings for these, so you will have to supply those details
(in your posts for further shots - thanks to Dropbox).

Certainly, if they're ALL at f/11, then there is a uniform sharpness one could expect from
that aperture and focal length combo. The main subjects generally look sharp.

Specifically:

First shot looks "OK", as there girl is in focus everywhere.
2nd shot (of the young girl) looks OK too.
3rd shot, ditto.
4th shot looks like you've just missed focus, where you can see the cracks in the
fence railing behind the main subject are sharper. If you DID focus on the person here
AND IF you did not inadvertently miss focus after some possible re-composing of the
shot, then this is the closest evidence for some micro-AF adjustment.

You need to do a standardised shot, say of the abovementioned rule, or of a uniform
flat pattern with angle of view perpendicular to it.

Another test for an AF issue: Do the standardised shots using manual focus.

Your lens could need micro-AF adjustment, or it could have de-centered elements.

If it's so new AND it is found to be de-centered, , certainly take it back.

[ricktas]

I am a beginner at shooting photography yes, though i understand the concept of photography very well which is why i have opportunities. i believe that you should always be able to get photos done very well in the camera, and to be a great photographer. Anything after is a bonus and for effects. This has gone very much off the topic of my thread now.

It is not off-topic. If I wanted to become a personal trainer for example, I don't just walk into a gym, setup and start having clients. I firstly need a damn good understanding of fitness, musculo-skeletal systems, diet etc. Photography is no different. Understanding the concept and actually being a good photographer are a world apart. Until such time as you have both the knowledge and skills, you should not be taking on clients if you are not an advanced photographer or at least a good high level intermediate one.

If you are beginner, spend a couple of years learning about photography, improving your skills.. and then consider taking on clients.

You may disagree, but talk to any professional photographer and they will tell you what I have just told you.

[tandeejay]

- The k1 has image stabilisition built in so i am able to handhold

Just because you're using image stabilization, doesn't automatically mean any camera shake becomes irrelevant. Image stabilization enables you to photograph 2 - 4 stops slower (depending on manufacturer, and photographers skill/style/technique/etc..), but if your technique is wrong to start with, you're already on the back foot. Image stabilization will not help poor technique. also, failure to use the IS correctly could cause the IS to make your photos worse.

[dylan84]

I understand that and take notice of my shutter speeds when i shoot. When you say use the is correctly, what do you mean?

[tandeejay]

When you take a photo you must press the shutter half way and wait for the IS to stabilise the image before pressing the shutter all the way down.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[arthurking83]

Like Tandee said, IS(image stabilisation) isn't a panacea to all ills .. it's just a patchup to some specific issues.

You can't compare the use of a tripod and the use of IS.

Reason for asking about tripod(and not IS) is that a tripod will eliminate any fore/aft movement you may naturally be inclined to produce.
A tripod is set into the one spot and that's it.
IS will only assist to reduce fine camera shake issues, not positional movements.

fore/aft movement: if you have the AF mechanism set to a single shot af mode(sorry but I dunno what Pentax call theirs), which is usually called AF-S mode, then what happens is, the camera focuses(step 1) and then you shoot(step 2).
In the moments between step 1 and step 2 can you positively and conclusively say that you haven't moved a millimeter or two in the fore/aft plane(as well as in the lateral plane .. but this almost certainly won't affect focus)

Focus works along a plane, and that is in the fore/aft plane. If you focus .. move a mil or two, and then shoot, then where you did focus was incorrect as you have moved a mil or two relative to the plane of focus.
This will look like the lens is soft, or misfocused, or whatever.

That above falls under the technique heading:
If you are 101% certain that you haven't moved in the fore/aft plane in the moment between focus and exposure, then you are a tripod! :p

As Am mentioned, your issue could well be an alignment issue between camera/lens. AF micro adjust can help with this to a certain degree. Prety much useless on a zoom lens.

Do the image test shots that Am mentioned.
Be 101% sure that the camera doesn't move .. handholding and relying on IS is no guarantee for that.
If you have no tripod, then just place camera on a rock stable surface of some type. (table/chair/rock, whatever! .. just make sure it doesn't move)
if images turn out a little blurry, try IS, faster shutter speeds or even much lower(as in 10+ sec) shutter speeds, or mirror-lockup or whatever.
Keep ISO to a minimum tho.

And I'll mention it again(as everyone else has) .. post some sample shots with EXIF intact!

[phild]

I haven't seen a camera yet that produces sharp images at 100% (pixel level). If you're shooting jpeg then you certainly don't have an understanding of the basics. FWIW one reviewer describes one of the Cons of the K1 as
Somewhat soft images and blown highlights in JPEG mode. You should be shooting in Raw for starters.

[Mark L]

i have to produce sharp pictures and at 100% as i will be working with clients who expect this. This isn't just a hobby for me, anything subpar won't do with my work

Please explain further.


When you take a photo you must press the shutter half way and wait for the IS to stabilise the image before pressing the shutter all the way down.


Unless you use BBF, which I generally think everyone should be using. :D(my index finger used to get so tired and gave me so many photos I didn't want as I constantly changed the point of focus).

[Lance B]

I haven't seen a camera yet that produces sharp images at 100% (pixel level). If you're shooting jpeg then you certainly don't have an understanding of the basics. FWIW one reviewer describes one of the Cons of the K1 as . You should be shooting in Raw for starters.

Here's an image from my D810 + 400 f2.8E FL VR + 1.4x TCIII, 1/320s f/6.3 at 560.0mm iso360

Looks pretty good to me at 100% on my ultra high res monitor. You will need to click on the image to see it at full res.

http://www.pbase.com/lance_b/image/162239066/original.jpg

And a 100% crop

http://www.pbase.com/lance_b/image/164531255/original.jpg

[ameerat42]

Sh:pw :pff!